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  • More 6505 Stuff

    Ok, I know I say this about every amp I acquire, but PROPERLY BIAS THAT SHIT!!!! Billz, I love you, but the 5150/6505 line doesnt need a BBE to make it fucking brutalz, PROPERLY BIAS THAT SHIT. I agree that it favors the matching cab. One more time, PROPERLY BIAS THAT SHIT!!

    For the 6505+/5150II, its a matter of swapping one single resistor on the bias pot board from 12k 1/4 watt to 6.8k 1/4 watt as described on the Eurotubes site. I did the swap yesterday and adjusted the bias and damn it is it a more tight fluid and rounder tone.
    For the 5150/6505, its a little more involved, but not much more. If you can swap pups and know how to take the precautions to protect yourself around possible high voltage, you can do this.
    I just cant stress enough how important it is to PROPERLY BIAS YOUR AMP. Your tone becomes more full, your available gain is more usable, most of the odd hisses and crackles go away, your EQ will seem more responsive, having a properly biased power section is absolutely a key point that makes the difference between having an ok sound but needs outside influences to having a killer sound just from the amp itself.


    Seriously guys, dont let the jackass manufacturers rob you of the tone your amp was meant to produce. Tube amps ship cold generally to make the tubes outlast the warranty. A proper bias setting is not a mod, its a necessity for the proper operation of the power tubes and accurate reproduction of the sound coming from the guitar.
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  • #2
    As an after thought, you may find the BBE needed to reintroduce the sub-low overtones your noise gate has eaten. F'n sub-par noise gate.
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    • #3
      so what are you saying?
      Hail yesterday

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      • #4
        I had a tech do the bias in my 6505. I do a lot of wiring car wise but big capacitors just scare me too much. In any case it really does wake the amp up considerably in my opinion, especially on the clean channel.
        1997 Dark Candy Red SL1
        2002 Candy Apple Green DK1
        2008 Satin Black SL3
        2011 Charvel Socal Candy Red
        2010 Les Paul Standard Plus Cherry Burst

        Mesa Boogie Mark IV

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        • #5
          Yeah, the high voltage in the caps can be a hazard. In the case of the 6505, I left it unplugged with the switch on for a few hours as you cant get to the caps to manually drain them. Jcm 900s are out in the open and you can drain them off the chassis with a screw driver, its scary the first time you ever do it, especially if the caps havent drained much, but its safe supposing your smart about it and use an insulated screw driver. Most amp though have drains for the caps, so in the case of the 6505 and pretty much anything with pc board mounted filter caps, you just have to wait a couple hours after last use and be extra careful you dont touch the wrong stuff and keep other parts of you body off the chassis while poking around in it.
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          • #6
            Using a screwdriver to short/drain a capacitor is hard on the capacitors. You should read more here...

            http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/captest.htm#ctdtk
            GTWGITS! - RacerX

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