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Tweek til your hearts content man, its your amp, but Ill post a couple pieces of info I found about the X100B I had that may or may not aid you in dialing in a good all around tone with it.
Heres a pic that forever immortalized the tone I had used with it. Youll notice the "drive" setting is at 8. This is all out assault with very minimal mud. 8 through 10 DOES ADD DISTORTION, but its like the ENGLs in that that distortion it adds just seems to be so over the top that it loses dynamics and gains a bit of mud. With the mini toggle underneath "lead" switched to "gain", the two knobs "lead" and "drive" work together like those on a JCM900 MKIII an SL-X(you know, the 0-10, 10-20 thing). The "drive" adds distortion and the "lead" attenuates the amount of signal sent elsewhere before the "master". With that same mini toggle switched down, if memory serves me correctly, "lead" becomes a solo boost. I never ran that way, I always liked the fliudity (not a word, I know) that was added with using it in the "gain" position.
Second, youll notice the "bass" rotary setting is at 5. This amp is a bass monster for a guitar amp. That bass rotary goes over 5, fire the bassist, because there will be no need for him. It really seems to affect the 125-250hz range. Really woofy above 5. You want some nice thump to the palm mutes but want to keep your bassist employed, bump up the 75hz slider on the 5 band. As you can see, mines dimed, but I like a lot of sub bass over tones. To me a chord just doesnt sound full enough without that.
Third, youll notice my treble and presence are dimed, this amp is not bright like a 6505 or Fireball. Also, I like a little fizz, a lot do not, so that may not be for you.
Fourth, youll notice that 1.5k slider is marked to be bumped up quite a bit. Youll also notice that my mid rotary is at 0 and the 500k slider is dipped a bit, so youd think super scoop and no cut right? That 1.5k slider is your savior for that. Thats primarily how I got my pleasant scoop but still able to cut I mentioned in the other thread. Scoop the fuck out of it and bump that 1.5k up to make it cut depending on the amount of scoop.
Lastly, if you havent already, opt for the fancier FS-44 foot switch. Lets you foot switch the loop, lead boost, etc..
Bottom line, your ears will tell you whats right for you, but being that were all metal heads here, I figured my settings may apply.
Have fun!
Heres a pic that forever immortalized the tone I had used with it. Youll notice the "drive" setting is at 8. This is all out assault with very minimal mud. 8 through 10 DOES ADD DISTORTION, but its like the ENGLs in that that distortion it adds just seems to be so over the top that it loses dynamics and gains a bit of mud. With the mini toggle underneath "lead" switched to "gain", the two knobs "lead" and "drive" work together like those on a JCM900 MKIII an SL-X(you know, the 0-10, 10-20 thing). The "drive" adds distortion and the "lead" attenuates the amount of signal sent elsewhere before the "master". With that same mini toggle switched down, if memory serves me correctly, "lead" becomes a solo boost. I never ran that way, I always liked the fliudity (not a word, I know) that was added with using it in the "gain" position.
Second, youll notice the "bass" rotary setting is at 5. This amp is a bass monster for a guitar amp. That bass rotary goes over 5, fire the bassist, because there will be no need for him. It really seems to affect the 125-250hz range. Really woofy above 5. You want some nice thump to the palm mutes but want to keep your bassist employed, bump up the 75hz slider on the 5 band. As you can see, mines dimed, but I like a lot of sub bass over tones. To me a chord just doesnt sound full enough without that.
Third, youll notice my treble and presence are dimed, this amp is not bright like a 6505 or Fireball. Also, I like a little fizz, a lot do not, so that may not be for you.
Fourth, youll notice that 1.5k slider is marked to be bumped up quite a bit. Youll also notice that my mid rotary is at 0 and the 500k slider is dipped a bit, so youd think super scoop and no cut right? That 1.5k slider is your savior for that. Thats primarily how I got my pleasant scoop but still able to cut I mentioned in the other thread. Scoop the fuck out of it and bump that 1.5k up to make it cut depending on the amount of scoop.
Lastly, if you havent already, opt for the fancier FS-44 foot switch. Lets you foot switch the loop, lead boost, etc..
Bottom line, your ears will tell you whats right for you, but being that were all metal heads here, I figured my settings may apply.
Have fun!