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Got my Randall today... I really like it. However, I could see some situations where I would want the spongier/sloppier attack, and sometimes a tighter sound - all from the same module. What could I do?
I got a spare faceplate with the amp - it only came with two modules, so the previous owner had a blackface plate that he used to fill the hole. So, I used it as my 'template' and added a switch between the gain and bass pot. It's the input cap - I put a .0022 and a .001, and can switch between either at will. One really nice thing about this is that if I want to switch caps again, it's a LOT easier than soldering on a board - a switch can take a lot more heat. To drill the faceplate I took the entire thing apart. Even though it says 'blackface' on the front, it's really a Brown. I didn't drill the Brown faceplate yet because if I didn't like how this worked, the faceplate would hide the extra holes in the front metal frame.
I'll probably do my recto module like this for sure - I like how it sounds, but it's a little sloppy for rhythms. I'd like to be able to go back and forth at will. Here are a few random notes for anyone else who thinks about doing this:
The faceplate is HARD to drill. I used a drill press and one of my older drill bits was glowing red hot. Went and bought a $30 set of super hard drill bits, and it still was hard to work. The chassis/frame was no big deal.
Take the PCB out of the frame before drilling! You can get to the underside of the PCB easier then too, and solder it properly.
As a matter of fact, don't put the faceplate back on and reassemble the module and test it with the switch. If you do like it, then drill the faceplate. Just be sure you're good enough with the drill to match up the holes.
The mini toggle switch I used has about 1/16" of an inch between pots. It's really tight - I'd recommend measuring twice and cutting/drilling once. You'll want to put it about even with the gain and bass pots, because the top of the module front fits flush against the amp.
I was able to go tighter than stock but with a little sag to tighter with very little sag on the Brown module. I might go a little higher for more sag, but I really dig the module with the .001 on there.
I think sometime soon I'll be putting a structure switch on my XTC module. BTW, do you guys think I am totally destroying the value of these modules since I'm drilling holes? Just curious. I crossposted this to a few other forums - I have friends on some boards and not others, and probably a few that are on all of them!
Pete
I got a spare faceplate with the amp - it only came with two modules, so the previous owner had a blackface plate that he used to fill the hole. So, I used it as my 'template' and added a switch between the gain and bass pot. It's the input cap - I put a .0022 and a .001, and can switch between either at will. One really nice thing about this is that if I want to switch caps again, it's a LOT easier than soldering on a board - a switch can take a lot more heat. To drill the faceplate I took the entire thing apart. Even though it says 'blackface' on the front, it's really a Brown. I didn't drill the Brown faceplate yet because if I didn't like how this worked, the faceplate would hide the extra holes in the front metal frame.
I'll probably do my recto module like this for sure - I like how it sounds, but it's a little sloppy for rhythms. I'd like to be able to go back and forth at will. Here are a few random notes for anyone else who thinks about doing this:
The faceplate is HARD to drill. I used a drill press and one of my older drill bits was glowing red hot. Went and bought a $30 set of super hard drill bits, and it still was hard to work. The chassis/frame was no big deal.
Take the PCB out of the frame before drilling! You can get to the underside of the PCB easier then too, and solder it properly.
As a matter of fact, don't put the faceplate back on and reassemble the module and test it with the switch. If you do like it, then drill the faceplate. Just be sure you're good enough with the drill to match up the holes.
The mini toggle switch I used has about 1/16" of an inch between pots. It's really tight - I'd recommend measuring twice and cutting/drilling once. You'll want to put it about even with the gain and bass pots, because the top of the module front fits flush against the amp.
I was able to go tighter than stock but with a little sag to tighter with very little sag on the Brown module. I might go a little higher for more sag, but I really dig the module with the .001 on there.
I think sometime soon I'll be putting a structure switch on my XTC module. BTW, do you guys think I am totally destroying the value of these modules since I'm drilling holes? Just curious. I crossposted this to a few other forums - I have friends on some boards and not others, and probably a few that are on all of them!
Pete
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