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The truss rod can only be adjusted from the heel? As they say in Dragons' Den, I'm OUT.
FWIW, I have 4 of them, and they came adjusted very well. They haven't shifted much, and I live in Minnesota, which has extreme temps on both ends of the scale. Don't let it prevent you from enjoying one of the best guitars out in decades.
Just my opinion, so take it for what it's worth... Too much fuss being made over the heel adjustment. It is fine as is, though certainly not convenient.
I'd prefer a 3 ply B/W/B beveled pg. Would also prefer chrome hw. But those are pretty small potatoes and simple enough to change if I ever feel the need. My only "quality issue" would be the selector switch. Again, a very small thing but mine is dodgy as hell and will get replaced when I swap out the pg - maybe even drop a TB-5 in the bridge while I'm in there. If I am going to full-on get my wishes met, toss in a real FR while they're at it. Though mine seems pretty solid.
I only own one of these and it's the Fer Red So-Cal. I so much dig this thing that I parted with nearly a half dozen other models since getting it. I am down to 6 guitars. 5 are Charvels and a Gibby Flying V. Everything else has been kicked to the curb.
I really can't say enough good things about the Pro Mods. I have played all three models more than once. And as much as I would like the above changes, I have yet to change squat on mine. It is still bone stock, dodgy switch and all. I am seriously considering adding a green So-Cal later on down the road when my finances are in better shape.
Too sum up: 3 Ply PG, Chrome HW, OFR. That would be damn near perfection short of CS.
I've done setups on so many guitars I can pretty much get a truss rod adjustment done right with one attempt. So taking the neck off adds very little time to a string change for me.
For instance, I just went from 9's to 10's on my Adrian Smith - measured the relief as it was for 9's, pulled the neck off, did 1/2 turn, strung it up and it was dead on.
With stratheads with top adjusts, its obviously really easy with an allen wrench - you don't even need to slack the strings. With a pointy, you've got to pull the truss rod cover, slack the strings, adjust, tune back up, and then wrestle to get the cover back on - easier on Kahler locks cause theres only one screw in the cover. With heel adjust, you can slack the strings and lock up on a Floyd or hold the strings on with a capo or rubber bands. Sure you've got to be careful you don't string the neck - but its easy after you've done it a few times.
The deal breakers for me, and the reason that I don't and probably won't ever own any are:
1.) Non-Recessed Floyd
2.) No Rosewood Boards
3.) No Contoured Heal
I know that most people don't like those options, but those options to me are deal breakers. I could live with the normal heal and a maple board, but the Non-recessed trem is the biggest deal breaker to me. Until they put those options out, which the probably never will, I will continue to use Warmoth and Musikraft to make my Hot Rod Strats.
While some folks may feel that the location of the truss rod nut affects the tone in some way, I do not. That said, a representative of Charvel has stated on these boards that due to the profile of the Pro Mod neck, the truss rod nut had to be located at the heel.
:think: If Ibanez can do very thin necks with the truss rod adjustment at the nut, so can Charvel. And look at this Charvel run that K had done with the bullet truss rod...
I feel my soul go cold... only the dead are smiling.
:think: If Ibanez can do very thin necks with the truss rod adjustment at the nut, so can Charvel. And look at this Charvel run that K had done with the bullet truss rod...
I agree and in a later post of mine in this thread, I linked to the original post from the Charvel employee. I recalled the comments incorrectly. Musikraft also offers any style truss with any neck profile so it's not a technical constraint. That said, one piece necks are less expensive to manufacture as far as I know.
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