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I know they use polyurethane paint on these guitars. I've painted with polyurethane before and it's got some very unforgiving requirements. If you wait longer than you should between coats or between base coat and top coat the chemical bonding that interlaces the paint layers together fails to occur. The correct thing to do if this is the case is to let the last coat dry completely to the point that it can be sanded down with 600 grit to provide surface adhesion (unless its metallic - then you need to start over). It's not chemical adhesion at this point but this is how it should be done to bond a cured layer.
Another problem that can develop is over mixing the reducer to try and speed up the dry time and flow characteristics of the paint. This can cause many surface issues, both at the time the paint is curing and down the road. I've never seen severe cracking but I have seen splitting at body lines and chipping. Stands to reason that similar aberrations would develop on wood surfaces.
You'd be surprised at how thick a few layers of polyurethane can be. I can't remember each layers general thickness anymore off the top of my head but it will look like plastic when chipped.
Another problem that can develop is over mixing the reducer to try and speed up the dry time and flow characteristics of the paint. This can cause many surface issues, both at the time the paint is curing and down the road. I've never seen severe cracking but I have seen splitting at body lines and chipping. Stands to reason that similar aberrations would develop on wood surfaces.
You'd be surprised at how thick a few layers of polyurethane can be. I can't remember each layers general thickness anymore off the top of my head but it will look like plastic when chipped.
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