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1985 San Dimas Charvel Pointy

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  • #31
    Originally posted by Axewielder View Post
    Glad it worked out and it's definitely worth the price, but whaaaaat's up with that eBay seller not disclosing the refin?
    I can't bitch and they acted like they kind of figured it was a refin while I was on the phone with them. Hell, it's a better finish than anything you would have gotten out of the Charvel shop in 1984/85. They went over the whole guitar with me on the phone and were honest about everything. They shipped quick and did a great job packaging.

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    • #32
      Here's some pics:




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      • #33
        Wow, that looks pretty cool, congrats again.

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        • #34
          Shit... That might be the coolest graphic I've ever seen!

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          • #35
            OK guys, I'm think about making some mods on this guitar. Obviously, it was very well done and I don't want to screw it up or hurt it's value but I am thinking about having a pro-install of a regular style Floyd locking nut. Also, will change the Floyd studs to what Jackson was using in 1985 and possibly swap the Schaller trem out with a real Floyd Rose. While apart, will probably switch the pickups, putting the regular spaced Duncan Distortion in the neck and the F-Spaced DiMarzio Super Distortion in the bridge.

            What do you think ? Smart idea or don't screw with it ? If you did these mods, would you mount the Floyd locking nut old-school style through the back of the neck or top mount ? I'm think old-school style, period correct.

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            • #36
              Just loosen the strings, put it in a case and sell it to me. Lol

              Seriously, pups are almost always a personal thing or depending on what you’ve already got in your guitar arsenal already; really no need for all of them to sound the same, you know what I mean?

              OFR are great and all, but after using the Gotoh Floyds on my guitars, its hard for me to ever want to switch back to them. If you’re all about period correctness, maybe a JT6 in mint condition might be a worthy consideration too.

              Thru bolted locking nuts always scare me, seen too many nice necks that developed cracks from them; top mounted ones don’t seem to have those issues down the road.

              Just make sure the guy making the shelf and installing the nut is a quality dude that has done it well before; hate to see someone hacked it up.
              Good luck and enjoy it!

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              • #37
                Well, period correct would be an OFR with a threaded arm. This guitar was made in early 1985. JT-6's were 1987-88 only.

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                • #38
                  Go with the top-drilled nut.
                  _________________________________________________
                  "Artists should be free to spend their days mastering their craft so that working people can toil away in a more beautiful world."
                  - Ken M

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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by lepard View Post
                    Well, period correct would be an OFR with a threaded arm. This guitar was made in early 1985. JT-6's were 1987-88 only.
                    My bad, you're correct, OFR it is then.

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                    • #40
                      Originally posted by lepard View Post
                      OK guys, I'm think about making some mods on this guitar. Obviously, it was very well done and I don't want to screw it up or hurt it's value but I am thinking about having a pro-install of a regular style Floyd locking nut. Also, will change the Floyd studs to what Jackson was using in 1985 and possibly swap the Schaller trem out with a real Floyd Rose. While apart, will probably switch the pickups, putting the regular spaced Duncan Distortion in the neck and the F-Spaced DiMarzio Super Distortion in the bridge.

                      What do you think ? Smart idea or don't screw with it ? If you did these mods, would you mount the Floyd locking nut old-school style through the back of the neck or top mount ? I'm think old-school style, period correct.

                      Considering the refin & mods there really isn't any collector value to worry about....nor any reason to be "period correct" ....whichever specs work best for you now would be my choice....

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                      • #41
                        Those trem studs look like the newer screw head things that Schaller had out recently.
                        Really? well screw Mark Twain.

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                        • #42
                          Considering what's been done to it, it's got little or no collector value. Do it how ever you want to. Any #s or markings on the neck heal or pocket. Iv dealt w michael charvel and Wayne guitars, I have nothing good to say about the experience at all. Actually probably one of the worst people and companies iv ever dealt with.

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                          • #43
                            Just don't do anything to it that wouldn't be "correct" for that era Charvel. Like, if you were going to do something wacky, like put a Wilkinson trem on there, it would only further devalue the guitar.

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                            • #44
                              Awesome looking guitar. I agree you should make it how you want it. It is interesting that assuming the trem cover plate is original it was indeed a v-trem guitar. Of course that could have been swapped out. For that serial number it would have been far less likely to have a brass vintage style trem. I can't tell from the photos, is the jackplate thin brushed aluminum or thicker glossy powder coated steel? It does appear that the neck has the cap on it vs. being painted so that is in line with the serial number. The toggle ring and tip appear to be original. When you take the neck off post photos of the markings in the neck pocket of the body and the heel of the neck. Very cool find!
                              www.sandimascharvel.com

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                              • #45
                                It was definitely a vintage trem guitar originally. Trem cover is original(pic attached). Jackplate appears to be thin brushed aluminum(pic attached) and the headstock does have the cap(pic attached).



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