NGD & pics: 2009 Charvel Pro-Mod 6th USA batch So-Cal in polar white

[Number Of The Priest]

I didn't have to wait long to find another USA Jackson/Charvel that fit my recent "buy any decent USA J/C under $1000" rule. This guitar was listed on a local classified ads site for CAD$850 (USD$646) with Yorkville (made in Canada) teardrop hardshell case. The seller was willing to go down to CAD$800 (USD$608). Needless to say I was very pleased. Guitar is not as pristine as was pictured in his ad, but the blemishes (pictured far below) are only minor anyway and easy to overlook.

Thanks to the Charvel USA Production Models - Catalog Ads topic, I was able to identify my guitar as a polar white So-Cal from the sixth batch of USA Pro-Mods, likely made in 2009. Polar white is definitely not a pure white, but instead looks like an aged white that has a slight yellowish tint to it.

Is this a German OFR or one of the other ones? I'm assuming German?





Not sure what any of the neck pocket and neck heel markings mean exactly. I can only assume "June 30, 2009" was the date the neck was made or the date the neck was mated to the body for final assembly.























Imperfections below, starting with the scuffed neckplate.



Below is a shallow dent covering a moderate area. The clearcoat appears to be cracked, and a small amount of dirt has penetrated this crack.



The next two photos show either sticker residue or what looks like two dried semen stains I can't seem to remove. What the hell...





Just a small ding.



How can I fix this broken case strap below?



Interestingly the So-Cal's trem block is labeled 40mm. I believe the trem block on my Shannon Soloist is 42mm. But the neck angle on the So-Cal is less drastic, thus the Floyd floats closer to the body than on the Shannon, limiting pull-up ability. I can really pull up dramatically on the Shannon before the bridge hits the body. So I guess this tells me that even with the longest trem blocks, pull-up ability is primarily determined by a greater neck angle. If I were to order a Custom Shop guitar, I would need to make this distinction to get exactly what I want.

[toejam]

Looks great! Interesting about the 40mm block, though. I'd only heard of 32 for recessed, 42 or 37 for non-recessed.

[Number Of The Priest]

Surprised me too, as I had only heard of the standard three lengths. This is like Apple introducing new cables and ecosystem products just to fuck with us.

In the last photo, you can see the big brass trem block in the Shannon, compared to the normal block peeking out from the So-Cal. I keep looking at the So-Cal bridge from that angle and it's playing tricks on me, fooling me into thinking I didn't level the bridge. It looks like I could loosen the trem claw screws a little bit, thus giving the trem a little more pull-up range before hitting the body. Hmm...

[kamanda]

On a roll! Congrats! We might need to have a Jackson/ Charvel meetup soon haha

Goo-Gone will take care of that residue, and is safe on poly.

[Number Of The Priest]

Buying a bottle of Goo-Gone for one application is like buying a $2 scraper to remove a loonie glued to the sidewalk.

Will Goo-Gone get rid of semen stains? Because those two streaks might very well be dried jizz... not that I've ever splooged on a guitar to find out how it looks when it crusts over.

...with that knowledge, are you sure you still want to come over and play it? This local event (http://www.kijiji.ca/v-guitar/ottawa...ket/1153075992) is happening this weekend... never been to a guitar show before and I'm intrigued.

On the day I bought the So-Cal, a local buyer visited me that same night to buy my unused guitar stands. He mentioned he was into Charvels and showed me cellphone pics of his enormous collection, including a Model 3A, Model 5A, and this guitar which I recognized instantly. I was about 95% done setting up the So-Cal (just needed minor intonation and bridge lowering to be complete) and had never even plugged the guitar into my amp so I never knew what it sounded like with my gear. I invited him into my studio room to see the So-Cal and treated him to being the first to play it through my amp. It blew me (and him) away. I brought out all my other guitars which he enjoyed playing. He revealed he was too slow to buy the Model 1C and to keep him in mind if I ever wanted to sell it. Two good Kijiji deals in one day with guys into similar guitars/music as me.

[shreddermon]

Nice grab, congrats. That neck must've been out in the sun, because it almost looks like baked maple.

[Number Of The Priest]

The neck or the fretboard? The seller is a fellow housebound rockstar who never gigs, so the guitar was enjoyed indoors. HOWEVER, the reason I ask "neck or fretboard?" is because, in my process of using steel wool to clean and shine the frets and remove gunk from the fretboard, the fretboard darkened, as if the maple "absorbed" whatever dirt and microscopic steel particles came off the frets... oops...

[shreddermon]

Both. It's normal, happens with age. The wood yellows with exposure and age. Look at a "baked" maple neck, and you'll see what I mean. That simulates the aging process. Just kind of unexpected to see on the Charvel because it's still a relatively young guitar age-wise, and most still have pretty white looking necks. So makes me think it may have gotten some sun exposure over time. As long as the neck is straight and stable, nothing wrong with it - normal and cool. It eventually happens to all of them.

[Number Of The Priest]

Ah yes, torrefaction. I became aware of the process a couple of years ago during my "acoustic-only phase" when Taylor started roasting their spruce tops to speed up the aging process.

Considering how young the guitar is, it has about as much fret wear as my Model 1C, a guitar about 20-21 years older, and not nearly as much as my Shannon Soloist (my main player all these years)! While there's still tons of fret life left, the owner must have really played this young guitar... and possibly kept it near a window. I tend to keep my guitars in their cases in a closet when I'm not playing them.

[Hellbat]

This will remove any kind of adhesive residue...

https://www.chemtronics.com/p-717-circuitworks-the-mighty-pen.aspx

I don't know if it's safe for a poly finish or not though. I'd try it under a cover first to be sure. It hasn't harmed any plastics I've used it on.

[Number Of The Priest]

Everyone, thanks for the kind words and feedback.

I tried Goo Gone from Walmart (http://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/goo-gone.../6000093378251) and those skid marks are still there. So I'm not certain that it is adhesive residue. The shape of the stains don't suggest stickers were there. Hmm...

Anyone know if the Floyd is a German OFR, or one of the other countries' OFRs?

Anyone know how to repair the case's lid strap?

Anyone know how I can "rotate" the pickup selector switch so that it is more horizontal? At the moment it is "diagonal". Making it more horizontal would make it easier for my pinky finger to flick the switch.

Anyone know how I can loosen the volume knob so that it spins more easily?

I find it strange that there are so few USA Charvel Pro-Mod videos on Youtube. The vast majority of the Pro-Mod videos seem to be for the Japanese and Mexican releases.

[Axewielder]

Anyone know how I can loosen the volume knob so that it spins more easily?

Mmkay easiest question here and not sure how you'd miss this, but you can loosen the set screw, raise the knob slightly, then re-tighten.

[Number Of The Priest]

Thanks Axewielder, I'll try that.

My Model 1C didn't have a hardshell case and I've been unsuccessful finding a used affordable one. I went to a guitar market today (no hot-rod or metal type guitars unfortunately) and bought a Fender-labeled G&G case and a Fender-labeled SKB case for my So-Cal since neither case had sufficient headstock room for the Model 1C's pointy headstock. Now the Model 1C rests in the Yorkville teardrop case that came with the So-Cal, and I have two perfectly good cases for Strats with standard headstocks. I guess I need another hot-rod Strat to put in the spare case. Maybe I'll look out for a Pro-Mod San Dimas.

I paid CAD$90 for the G&G case and it's in near-mint condition. I've never seen a G&G case (or any other case) that opens "the wrong way", and I think it might be unique to this style of case (Stratocaster 50th Anniversary 1954-2004). The quality and craftsmanship on this case is very nice and now I understand why people like G&G cases despite my previous impression that "if a case isn't molded for a guitar, the guitar will shift around inside and therefore the case is lousy for protection".

I paid CAD$40 for the SKB case and it's in perfectly functional condition, though a little grungy/tarnished on some of the metal parts and one of the feet is missing. Interior plush lining looked nice after vacuum cleaning.

[Gigi]

Anyone know if the Floyd is a German OFR, or one of the other countries' OFRs?

it's the FRT01000, made in Korea.

from http://www.floydrose.com:
"Q: What is the difference between the 1000 Series Original and the Original?
A: The two bridges are manufactured using the same materials and processes, and they are functionally identical. The country of manufacture is the distinction: The Original is produced in Germany and the the 1000 Series Original is produced in Korea.

Q: How do I know if I have a 1000 Series or an Original?
A: On the German-made Original, you will see "Made in Germany" stamped on the underside of the base plate. On the 1000 Series, there is no stamp at all.

[Number Of The Priest]

Thanks Gigi! I explored the FloydRose.com website and was stunned at how many different models (with subtle differences) that they offer.

Since you say it's a Korean OFR, I suppose technically the bridge on this So-Cal would be an FRT02000 (black) since FRT01000 is chrome. I believe the same Korean OFRs appear on the 2016 Pro-Mods. I then assume the Korean OFRs were a staple of all Pro-Mods throughout the years, and that none of them ever came stock with the German OFR.

Since the German and Korean bridges are identical in every respect regarding dimensions, materials, and processes, I have no problem with it. Good bridge!

Edit: One thing I noticed is that the fingertip swing-tensioning nut on the whammy bar doesn't really lock the trem arm in place. The bar still swings freely even after I've fully tightened the nut. This is in contrast with the OFR on my Soloist where I can tighten the nut and make the bar stay at a desired angle instead of swinging freely. Any hints?