Custom built suggestions?

[ken]

Thanks for the tips on the flamed maple. Had no idea; basically you are always having to readjust the truss rods in it?

Misha Mansoor stated that he went with a plain maple neck for his Jackson sig. because the instability of figured maple, which he loves (who doesn't?), was a pain while touring. He recently got this beauty with an amazing roasted flame maple neck from Jackson, but I don't know if how much more stable they are and/or if he'll tour with it:

http://www.sevenstring.org/threads/ngd-jackson-custom-shop-heavy-relic-strat.325416/

I only have one guitar with a flame maple neck, a Musicman. It moved a crazy amount (i.e. all strings flat on the fretboard) when I moved it from the US to Europe, but has been otherwise stable, and I've had a Jackson with a mahogany neck move almost as much.

[shreddermon]

Sorry, but that is not correct. Making string changes easier is not the sole purpose of locking tuners. In fact, that's pretty much just an added benefit. The primary purpose of locking tuners is to enhance tuning stability. And, properly used, they do exactly that. Not perfect, but better.

Is a set of locking tuners going to replicate the near-perfect return to pitch that you get with a double-locking Floyd Rose? No. But is it going to improve tuning stability relative to non-locking tuners? Yes.

Tuning instability is the result of string binding from the forces of friction. A double-locking trem like a Floyd eliminates that by locking the strings at the points of friction. (And, in the case of the tuners, eliminating them from the equation altogether.) With non-locking set-ups, the points of friction include the bridge posts, bridge saddles, nut, string trees (if any), and tuners.

Locking tuners minimize any friction at the tuners and, with staggered post heights, eliminate the need for string trees. The Gurtrie and non-fine tuning Floyd take care of the bridge side of things. So what's left? Without a locking nut, you can still have string binding there. So the tuning stability isn't as good as with a double-locking Floyd. But Guthrie and some others prefer the trade off vs having a Floyd. And, while not perfect, it's a definite improvement vs having a more traditional 6-screw vintage trem, string trees, and non-locking tuners.

[x_zac10]

Locking tuners minimize any friction at the tuners and, with staggered post heights, eliminate the need for string trees. The Gurtrie and non-fine tuning Floyd take care of the bridge side of things. So what's left? Without a locking nut, you can still have string binding there. So the tuning stability isn't as good as with a double-locking Floyd. But Guthrie and some others prefer the trade off vs having a Floyd. And, while not perfect, it's a definite improvement vs having a more traditional 6-screw vintage trem, string trees, and non-locking tuners.

Staggered post heights and not needing string trees aren't those are their own issues, and can be had independent of locking tuners. Best case scenario, locking tuners minimize any friction from the string wraps, but that's not a huge part of the equation compared to the other elements, and if you just string it to lock the string against itself there aren't excessive wraps anyway. I can agree to disagree though, and I guess every little bit helps. My only point is that if you want the best stability, you have to have a locking nut.

[xenophobe]

Is a set of locking tuners going to replicate the near-perfect return to pitch that you get with a double-locking Floyd Rose? No. But is it going to improve tuning stability relative to non-locking tuners? Yes.

I'm sold on the LSR nut and locking tuners with a Floyd. That's how my Fender deluxe is set up. Super stable... not prone to string slippage like you can get with a locking nut. I would have ordered my strat like that if I had known about it when I had placed the order.

[salmonella]

Hi all,

Been a Jackson guy all my life, but decided to go with a Charvel. Figuring I will spec it with mahogany body, flamed maple neck, HSS pup configuration. Want to go with a non locking bridge for easy ability to tune up or down without fidgety adjustments on the bridge.

Any experience or suggestions before I put in the order would be deeply appreciated.

If you want to change tunings /strings easily with minimal hassle get a fixed bridge. like the Duplantier or Mansoor

[Alissarr]

Turns out Charvel won’t due an oil finish CS at this time... I am debating whether to even go through with the rest of it.

[CaptNasty]

As others have said, stay away from figured woods (Birdseye maple, flame maple, etc) on the neck. I can tell you from firsthand experience they move... a lot. I bought a used “Custom Shop” Charvel Pro Mod with a Birdseye maple neck.

When it arrived, the action was very high. A quick check of the neck revealed warping. I thought I would adjust the relief. When I removed the neck, I discovered that the neck had already been adjusted as much as it could be. In other words the previous owner had been fighting the warpage for some time and the neck could no longer have relief adjusted. The guitar went back for a full refund the very next day.

I took the money from the Charvel refund and ordered a Custom Select Jackson Dinky and I must say, I am much happier with the guitar I will be getting.

[Alissarr]

Thought I’d update everyone on what was spec’d out on this build (prolly like 2 months out before I get her in my hands though).

Went with solid mahogany body San Dimas style with clear coat lacquer and a baked maple neck with no inlay. Decided for Luminlay side dots though. Hardware should be gold Sperzel locking tuners, low friction EVH pots, and a vintage fender style bridge. Went with SD Jazz and JB pups. They’ll do a 5 way switch on that for me with coil splits (although I haven’t seen a wiring diagram). Will post more when I get it in my grip. Tx