I don't have the GPM magazine that I saw the interview in but EVH said he screwed the spring claw all the way and used worn out springs because they were easier to put on.
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Originally posted by shreddermon View PostHere's a couple of pics of mine. This is pretty much how they come set up from the factory. I only tweaked the bridge height a little for better action.
In the first pic, notice the position of the claw. It's only screwed in as far as necessary for the trem to be blocked. Not all of the way, as that puts too much tension on the springs. More importantly, notice that the sustain block is flush against the body route for the trem. If you want to the trem blocked for no pull-up, this is the key. Mine is actually only flush on the low E side - it doesn't need to be perfectly uniform across the whole block or anything like that.
In the second pic, notice that the base of the bridge is not actually sitting on top of the body - it's just a bit above it. With the sustain block flush in the route against the wood, the bridge still has a little bit of adjustment for lower action, if you want it.
Hope that helps.
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One more little tidbit here is that these also come from the factory tuned standard. I dropped mine to Eb like the old EVH guitars and also because thats what my band plays in. Between that and setting it for no pull up, which you have to do if you have a D-Tuna, it required the addition of some shims to the trem block to get it right. The factory should send these out tuned to Eb not E IMO.Rudy
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