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V-trem tuning stability with a pointy headstock?

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  • #31
    Hello!

    First post

    Here it goes: I´m about to buy a Charvel Star with a v-trem and I was wondering what you think about this guys method of keeping things in tune? He is using a Fender strat, but anyway?

    Join my ONLINE guitar repair/making courses ➡ https://buildyourownguitaronline.com/ Frequenta anche tu un corso di liuteria ➡ https://www.corsodiliuteriaelet...


    While at it...the star I´m about to buy is a HSS model, wich I´m not really too keen on mostly because of the look. It is also Ferrari red with a maple fretboard, and so I´m thinking about some kind of mod to it. What do you think about changing the pups to Bill Lawrence XL500L in creme (same with the single coils) and creme picupframe and Shaller gold/brass tuners? This would give it a more retro and also more homogenous look I think. What about the XL500L in that body/neck?

    I can´t wait to start abusing this guitar!!!

    Edit: Forget about the looks...sound of Xl´s would be cool to discuss however...
    Last edited by soulquake; 11-25-2010, 06:31 AM.

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    • #32
      I had a new Model 1 and the tuning stability wasn't bad. The high E slipped occasionally. I had it fitted with a Schaller a few days later.

      I had a Fender strat with a v-trem and it was worthless. IMO all v-trems are. Utterly obsolete and no redeeming value whatsoever.

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      • #33
        I had a V-Trem on my Retro Star and even with locking tuners, it was pretty bad. Maybe you should try a Trem King tremolo. I've been hearing good things about them. There's also the Super V trem for stratocasters.

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        • #34
          The trem king and super v seems cool. But could someone try the video example and tell us how it works. I had an old Tokai strat (great strat btw) and I remember it worked well enough. What I hate most with floyds is that they seem to break the low e just by the bridge. Happened live several times. If the v-trem can be made to work OK (acceptable) I won't look further.

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          • #35
            Originally posted by soulquake View Post
            The trem king and super v seems cool. But could someone try the video example and tell us how it works. I had an old Tokai strat (great strat btw) and I remember it worked well enough. What I hate most with floyds is that they seem to break the low e just by the bridge. Happened live several times. If the v-trem can be made to work OK (acceptable) I won't look further.
            Was the string breakage on the low E happening with the same guitar? It's possible that there was a burr or rough spot on the front of the saddle where the string contacts it or that the sting block was possibly chafing the string.
            Takeoffs are optional but landings are mandatory.

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            • #36
              The main difference between a pointy and a strat head is the angle of the headstock itself. I have a MIJ 67 reissue strat all stock hardware. (just swapped out the pups). I use the trem like a floyd and it stays in tune perfectly. I have the vintage split shaft tuners and original nut. What i do is remove all strings at once and replace. I pull the string tight up in the bridge, Pull string all the way thru the tuner. Place my right index finger on the string at the nut. Pull the string back to the second fret. Then cut the access off. Insert string down the post of the tuner and wind holding the tension on the string as it winds. Also holding the string with slight downward pressure so it winds downward without over lap. The pulling the string back two frets for vintage tuners and one fret for sealed tuners gives you 2.5 to 3 wraps of the string every time. It's consistent tight and works every time. If you hear pinging while tuning the string to pitch the nut slot is catching the string. You can slide the string back and forth like floss thru the slot to free any debris or burrs.Or if you have nut files or a rounded needle file you can remove the burr that way. Also having a slightly larger entry and exit on the nut the string wont hang up on the edges of the slot. Follow the same stringing method for all strings. Then stretch the strings by pinching them with each hand from bridge to nut meeting in the middle of the span. Repeat this till they dont stretch anymore. Guitar should stay in tune. I also adjust the 6 mounting screws on the trem. I unscrew the center 4 screws about a full turn. Making the 2 outside posts the anchors and pivot points. Also reducing friction. The trem on my strat is tipped up slightly to Fender spec to give it a slight pitch bend upward. I dont use any lubes or graphite or any other additives on my guitar to keep it in tune. I use ball end strings (dean Markley 9's) and have no tuning stability issues when using the trem like a floyd. I also have a B?W Frankenstein i just finished that has a floyd on it but doesnt have a locking nut. It has the original nut and squier schaller style tuners. It stays in tune perfectly. Its not the pitch of the headstock or the type of nut and bridge that keeps a guitar in tune. Its having a clean smooth obstruction free path for the string to glide over. If it has a pitched headstock like a pointy head. A slightly larger entry and exit and a steeper angle of the nut slot may be needed to keep the string from binding in the nut and going out of tune. I can make a squier strat stay in tune. Not braggin here just saying if you know
              what the cause is you can fix it and make it stay in tune.
              Gil
              P.S. sorry for the long post.

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              • #37
                I'm just thanksful my hearing isn't good to enough to perceive the "improved tone" that a v-trem supposedly gives you.

                FLOYDS RULE! V-TREMS DROOL!
                _________________________________________________
                "Artists should be free to spend their days mastering their craft so that working people can toil away in a more beautiful world."
                - Ken M

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                • #38
                  i perfer the v trem ! only because my finger always bumps the locking nut at the treble side just slightly ,enough to drive me crazy ,i just dumped my floyd rose pointy for a v trem pointy ill probably use it gently and wont even use the bar !! just pull it up by the bridge itself just a little ! i dont think you could expect it to work to good when the strings are on that angle (its just common sense) i consider my v trem to be made of GOLD !!! any one else besides me hate that locking nut with that point on it !!

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                  • #39
                    Jacksonfreak: Thanks for the input. I think this will work for me. I have had several floyds but all the hazzle with with them made me ditch them in favor of tune-o-matic. Now I have come back full circle with the v-trem.

                    Does the slight tipping vs flush with the body effect tone? Flush gives the added bonus of quick d-drop...also a mess with a floyd without a d-tuna.

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                    • #40
                      I can now confirm that the V-trem works allright (A-OK). It won´t be a floyd, but who would have thought so? I can do wild divebombs etc without any tuning issues. I have the trem set flush with body so I can retune and d-drop easily. When you have the trem and tuning set up correctly all you have to do is make a divebomb whenever a bend makes the guitar go out of tune and you're back in tune. Not a perfect solution but one that will be stable and predictable. Important is to follow all the tips in this thread for it to work.

                      Rawk on!
                      Last edited by soulquake; 12-10-2010, 12:25 PM.

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