how do you guys make your JS series play better?

[Dred]

To the original poster, I'd take it in to a good tech. You may need some fretwork or some saddle adjustments. I'm a bit surprised that you're saying that the low E and the A string are the same height when you have a TOM bridge; they shouldn't be.

+1

Yeah I know they should not be the same height. I think that may be what's throwing me off on this guitar. I find myself flubbing notes all over the place that I normally don't have. Problem with. I am really thinking that a new nut and a better bridge will make this much more playable.

I think Sully has hit the nail on the head with that one. Perhaps play around with it some more, and if ya can't get her runnin' the way you want just take her in to a tech. The heavier gauge low-E or the bridge setup I feel are only putting a band-aid over a wound (though theoretically lowering the wound-string-side of the bridge while keeping the unwound-side higher should get the e sit lower than the A). It may mask the problem, but if it's a neck, nut or bridge issue, then seek out a reputable tech. Keep us posted, bro.

[sully]

How does that help the original poster? OK..he asked what he could do...and a few folks suggested returning the guitar, or trading up for something else.
I've owned over 40 guitars in over 25 years of playing. This is a forum where people share experiences and this is my experience.

I look at the JS series as beginner guitars for people just starting out and who don't want to spend a lot of money. Why would anyone buy a JS if they're just going to upgrade the hardware anyway...not to mention, the build quality isn't what the Japanese and USA made guitars is.

I could come in and edit my post too...but I won't do that, because I think what I have to say is very relevant to the topic.

My point was that you pretty much spent most of your post talking about how you wouldn't lower yourself to such a thing as a JS model. I'm sure that's not your intent, but you come across in a somewhat condescending way. Experience is helpful of course (I've been playing longer than you and have had more guitars, btw), but the point of his post was asking what he could do; sure selling it may be an option, but he mentions that he really wants to like the guitar. It's entirely possible that with the right adjustments, he'll get his wish.

That said, I'm not really all that interested in most guitars that could be had for $300 either. Hell, I'm not much for guitars that I didn't build myself, but I'm certainly not going to impress that opinion on to those that DO buy a guitar for a little bit of money. People do it for a bunch of reasons, ya know?

Sully

[CKJ]

...How does any of that help out the original poster? From what I'm reading of his post, he'd like to make his guitar more playable.

To the original poster, I'd take it in to a good tech. You may need some fretwork or some saddle adjustments. I'm a bit surprised that you're saying that the low E and the A string are the same height when you have a TOM bridge; they shouldn't be.

On both accounts

[sully]

I bought the JS because it was very cheap $120. I also like tinkering as well. I have many other guitars of much higher quality. I know it is a cheap guitar and I know that I won't get my money back out of it. I was simply just poking around to see what you guys might have done to other cheapies to make them great players.

If you haven't yet, I'd check that your frets are nice and level. Different guitars have a different feel, for sure, but you should be able to dial in the Kelly to the specs you're used to. You mentioned string height settings along with relief; are there any other issues? Does the neck shape work for you? Body work for ya? If so, I'm sure that your guitar can be dialed in to how you want it. Will it be on the level of a custom shop? Probably not, but I'm pretty sure you knew that going in.

Sully

[nafe]

Out of interest, what guage strings are on it? I only ask because if you are using one of those string sets which carry a significantly heavier E string, it will obviously feel like the string is sitting "higher" than the rest due to its larger circumference and higher tension when tuned.
Probably sounds stupid, but i had it happen a few years back when i bough a cheap used guitar and couldnt work out why the E string felt weird, so i had a closer look and it was really obvious that whoever sold it to the pawn shop had broken the original E and just thrown on whatever they had lying around to replace it....

[Jr_vw2]

I think I'm going to swap the neck off of my king v and see how it feels on the Kelly. I like the profile on both necks and the king v plays great. This will tell me if it's a nut or fret issue. I am still really suspect of the bridge on this though. Hell who knows maybe I'll just buy a sharkie neck and a roller bridge and call it a day.

The body is a little awkward it's pretty neck heavy but I think I can get used to that.

Thanks for all the help and input guys.

[Jr_vw2]

Out of interest, what guage strings are on it? I only ask because if you are using one of those string sets which carry a significantly heavier E string, it will obviously feel like the string is sitting "higher" than the rest due to its larger circumference and higher tension when tuned.
Probably sounds stupid, but i had it happen a few years back when i bough a cheap used guitar and couldnt work out why the E string felt weird, so i had a closer look and it was really obvious that whoever sold it to the pawn shop had broken the original E and just thrown on whatever they had lying around to replace it....

yeah I actually thought of that as well. And just for shits and giggles I put the same gauge for the E and A on there just to see if that made a difference.

Good thought though.

[nafe]

Hmm, in that case i'd have a look at the saddles and see whether they've been slotted properly. In some of the entry level guitars the workmanship can be a little unpredictable. Maybe get a triangular file and (carefully) file the offending saddle out a little to allow the string to sit a little lower, but take your time and re-tension the string after every couple of passes with the file to see how it feels. Don't go too far or you'll end up with it sitting too low and buzzing all over the place

[charvel750]

Actually, what I meant by my remark was that "except for Ibanez..." that guy'd buy only USA. What makes Ibenhad so great? Big L.

[dg]

I usually set my guitars action at 2mm on the low E and about 1.8mm on the high E. However I cannot get this set that low without a crazy amount of buzz/fretting out. I have the relief set about .004. I use Ernie Ball power slinkies (11-48).

I usually don't like to recommend truss rod adjustments without seeing the guitar myself, but I think you may be able to set your action a bit lower if you add a little more relief. Most of my guitars are set up with just under .010" of relief and I'm usually able to get the strings down under 1.5mm at the 12th with very little buzz. Like I said, ymmv because I don't have your guitar in front of me, but when you mentioned how straight you had the neck set, it jumped out at me as something worth checking out.

[Jr_vw2]

I will put some more relief in the neck tonight and see where that puts me I will also take a closer look at the bridge and see what I can do there.

[veniculum]

My point was that you pretty much spent most of your post talking about how you wouldn't lower yourself to such a thing as a JS model. I'm sure that's not your intent, but you come across in a somewhat condescending way. Experience is helpful of course (I've been playing longer than you and have had more guitars, btw), but the point of his post was asking what he could do; sure selling it may be an option, but he mentions that he really wants to like the guitar. It's entirely possible that with the right adjustments, he'll get his wish.

That said, I'm not really all that interested in most guitars that could be had for $300 either. Hell, I'm not much for guitars that I didn't build myself, but I'm certainly not going to impress that opinion on to those that DO buy a guitar for a little bit of money. People do it for a bunch of reasons, ya know?

Sully

Wow...were you off my friend. Condescending? Really? Because I won't buy imports (for the most part) anymore...because I'm proud and enjoy the quality and craftsmanship that goes into a custom or high-end USA made guitar. And because I wanted to comment that it doesn't make a lot of sense to spend money on something cheap, just to spend more money to bring it back up to something that you could've bought in the first place (which will have better quality materials inherently before you even start to include hardware - i.e. finer woods, better playability when not plugged in, etc)
I've explained that I've owned many in the past...(which, by the way, you had to mention you owned more than me and have been playing longer...I refuse to get into a pissing match...but isn't that a bit of a "condescending" statement?)

I've learned my lessons over the years and I figured I'd share...it's a message board. That's what people do. I spent good money on bad shit...when I could've saved a little longer and gotten something much more valuable, not only monetarily, but in playability as well.
Everyone has owned cheap guitars...and everyone needs something to start on. But an experienced player should know better.

If I came off as condescending...sorry..didn't realize people were that sensitive. I don't know why this still surprises me.

Good luck with the JS...I won't offer up any more comments on this topic

[BenoA]

Nothing much to say but just jumping in as another JS30KE aficionado! Mods done: Planet Waves tuner and Dimarzios (ToneZone bridge and Evo neck). Wanted a Kelly shape with no Floyd, the JS30 model was the only thing (in my price range) that would fulfill the job.

[Trussrod]

I've played and owned expensive guitars--demo-ed many on my own rig over the past three decades and still have a Les Paul Custom. IMO expensive stuff is over-rated. A DR3 I picked up for $150 sounds better than any instrument I've ever played and blows away the Les Paul I have. Love my DK2--and MIJ guitars in general--but haven't found the right pups for it yet. If a guitar body is made of solid tone wood you have a good chance to put together a great guitar. If it's plywood forget it.

You could upgrade the pots to CTS pots and also try different ohm ratings--250, 500 and 1 meg are common choices. The bridge is critical to tone, too. It's usually difficult to upgrade the bridge on a cheaper guitar, but you might want to look into it.

[JackS30]

If you wanted playability you should have gotten a dinky, I've got one, a JS30DKT and I'm getting one of the new series, and yes the kelly does feel different. So maybe try a dinky and see how you go