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Jackson SL3MG vs Charvel Model 6

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  • Jackson SL3MG vs Charvel Model 6

    I'm new to the forum, so hi!

    I've owned a Charvel Model 6 since 1986 or so, when I paid 800 pounds for it. I love this guitar, so much so that I've never bought another guitar since - mainly because I knew I couldn't justify spending enough money to replace it with something better, especially since I'm just a keen amateur.

    Anyway, it's been great up until recently. Now its no longer staying in tune. Single tone bends on G or B can knock it off whack, whereas before it would stay in tune no matter what. I'm busy combing the threads here for advice on how to remedy this, but I'm also wondering if it isn't time to upgrade.

    It looks like the Jackson Soloist is the one for me, and it seems the best I can afford is the SL3MG. This actually looks similar in spec to my model 6, and despite the passage of years and the fluctuating exchange rate, the dollar price at dealers seems similar to what I paid back in the day. So my question is: is the SL3MG a significant upgrade over my trusty old Model 6? Or should I just fix my Model 6, or get someone else to do it if I can't manage it?
    Thanks in advance!
    Cliff
    My other signature says something funny

  • #2
    Is yours a JT6 (lic. floyd) or Kahler bridge? Significant upgrade? Absolutely not IMO. But they are both nice guitars. Just different specs. The SL3 (HSS) I played had a thicker neck than my '87 Model 6. I think the newer SL3MG's have binding now (??).. Both rosewood. Poplar (M6) vs Alder. The newer SL3MG's have the korean OFR. You'll have to look at the specs and see which is better for you. But a bridge swap on the M6 is not a hard issue. Kahler - just replace. JT6 - OFR is a direct swap.
    Every man dies... Not every man really lives!!

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    • #3
      Welcome! This place will give you GAS. Try this thread: http://www.jcfonline.com/threads/116...+locknut+parts

      Sounds like the lock is worn out to me, there is a link to a place you can find replacement parts in the thread.

      The SL3MG is a great guitar too though, recessed Floyd, M6 has a top mount JT6, HH pups instead of HSS, the M6 has the active elctronics (not sure which one) and I think the SL3 is Alder instead of Poplar. The inlays in your Model 6 are MOP and on the SL3 they're MOTO. It would be up to you, but I'd fix the 6 and get the SL3.

      EDIT- What Warlock said
      Last edited by Scooter; 03-16-2011, 07:11 PM.
      "illegal downloading saved people from having to buy that piece of shit you tried to pass off as music" - Nighbat

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      • #4
        Model 6 all the way. I think the overall quality of the Japanese line was better back then, and I've owned a bunch of 'em from all eras. Besides, that's your baby! You'll never find another one that gives you that degree of happiness...I guarantee it.

        I agree with Scooter than your problem is almost certainly a worn-out string lock. They were made of soft metal and get grooves worn in them from clamping against the strings. I've had to replace several old Kahler string locks (as well as the imitation one used on the '87-88 J/Cs) in recent years. Replacements are available on eBay and also from Kahler's parts supplier. Since your Model 6 is an '86, I assume it has the Kahler, along with the genuine Kahler string lock. Even if it has the Jackson JT-6 trem and Jackson string lock with the big locking screws used in '87-88, those are 100% compatible with with the Kahler string lock.
        Last edited by pro-fusion; 03-17-2011, 12:34 AM.

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        • #5
          Fix it and treat yourself on a 1990 Jackson Professional Soloist for comparion's sake!

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          • #6
            Thanks folks for all your advice and help. I'm only guessing about the date I bought it - it may well have been '87, but yeah, it's a licensed Floyd Rose unit.

            Same as the guy in the thread Scooter posted, my lock is behind the nut, and it probably needs some attention. That said, I'm surprised how much the tuning's going off (high) with the lock undone. Maybe I just screwed up putting my latest strings on.

            I think I particularly like Algeriet's idea of getting the 1990 soloist as well

            Cliff
            Last edited by Cliff; 03-17-2011, 10:26 PM.
            My other signature says something funny

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            • #7
              In addition to putting a new string lock on it, which I can almost guarantee you need after this many years, you might consider replacing the JT-6 trem with an Original Floyd Rose. While you can leave the original trem posts in place, they aren't shaped quite the same way and don't permit as much freedom of movement for an OFR (which has wider-beveled knife edges). Frets On the Net makes replacement trem posts that screw right into the original metal inserts and work better with an Original Floyd Rose. Apart from that, an OFR is a direct drop-in replacement for a JT-6.

              You'll be amazed at how much better your Model 6 sounds if you do an OFR replacement. I have an '87 USA Soloist that came with a JT-6, and it sounds at least 100% better now that it has an OFR. The JT-6 was a good design, better than the OFR in some ways, but was unfortunately made entirely of very soft metal (including the saddles). Because of that, JT-6s give a dull tone and are prone to having the various screw holes get stripped.
              Last edited by pro-fusion; 03-19-2011, 08:17 PM.

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              • #8
                You can take the string lock off and file the underside of the housing down. Also the blocks.
                That will take care of the grooves for a while longer.
                Free
                Models
                The prudes may snub them, but I don't care.
                I dont need furniture.
                If its tough, shreds, and screams, Its all good.
                If it gets jacked, I'll get another one.
                And rock that sucker.

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                • #9
                  I have a Model 2 that came with the JT-6, as well. I never cared much for the Kahler-styled locking nut behind the actual nut, but maybe it will help if you also oil the actual (forward) nut. Sometimes the wound strings will get hung up in the nut when you bend and they go sharp. I've also been known to (gently!) widen them with a nail file. Just make sure you don't deepen the grooves.
                  Member - National Sarcasm Society

                  "Oh, sure. Like we need your support."

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                  • #10
                    I have gotten a great education from alot of these dudes. My 1986 Model 2 kept going out of tune. Very, very clean guitar but it started going out of tune. I was told check that damn locknut and lubricate the nut in front of it. Yep, that was it. A little touch up and bingo. I would do some tweaks on that Model 6 , it is a damn fine axe. Those old Jap made Charvels have over the years become some of my favorites . Under close inspection , they are very well built and crafted. We had a room filled with many, many guitars at a friendly jam. Drinks, food, family and friends. Everyone of the old crew of ex bandmates brought a bunch. We sat for hours playing everything from OLD original SG'S, early 70's V"S, Les Pauls, custom G&L's. All crazy, beautiful playing and sounding guitars. Hit of the night with a bunch of old shredders and bluesmen, my Charvel model 2, and a evil red Predator. We swapped back and forth between my Predator and a just a musically religous G&L ASAT custom. Nothing like some pointies to bring a smile to the faces.

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