NGD - SL3 Soloist - need some help

[MakeAJazzNoiseHere]

Careful ordering a nut. Some guys ordered who knows how many nuts from Guitar Parts Depot, Stewmac, Ebay, et cetera trying to find an import lock nut that would match up. Just finding the blocks, you might do OK with one of the "import" nuts from Guitar Parts Depot if you want to try for the cheap/easy fix.

For a whole replacement nut, you can't use an OFR nut, it's too tall. You can have someone cut the shelf down and plug/redrill the holes for a real Floyd nut, or you can grind down an OFR nut and plug/redrill the holes, which isn't a bad deal because the Takeuchi nut is not really made of the hardest metal, and it's a bitch to find the right nut for any of the Jackson imports when it wears out.

[veniculum]

Careful ordering a nut. Some guys ordered who knows how many nuts from Guitar Parts Depot, Stewmac, Ebay, et cetera trying to find an import lock nut that would match up. Just finding the blocks, you might do OK with one of the "import" nuts from Guitar Parts Depot if you want to try for the cheap/easy fix.

For a whole replacement nut, you can't use an OFR nut, it's too tall. You can have someone cut the shelf down and plug/redrill the holes for a real Floyd nut, or you can grind down an OFR nut and plug/redrill the holes, which isn't a bad deal because the Takeuchi nut is not really made of the hardest metal, and it's a bitch to find the right nut for any of the Jackson imports when it wears out.

Thanks man...I was reading an older post where you were talking about filing down the nut (I believe you said it was an R3, correct?). In any event....I'm not real gifted when it comes to anything other than plug-n-play. I have a guy that's been working on my guitars for years....I showed it to him, and he said he was gonna just grind down the blocks themselves. It might not be the prettiest thing...but who cares...I just want it to work.

I also picked up some new CTS pots and a Fender 5-way switch. I also told my tech to replace the input jack as well. After all is said and done, if this thing costs me another 50 bucks, oh well...it's worth it...this is a nice instrument, and (at least I think) I got a half way decent deal on it.

Thanks again for the replies...much appreciated

[Sukkoi19]

An automotive machine shop could probably plane down an OFR nut for you for a couple bucks if you decided to go that route. You are in Jersey so theres plenty of machine shops.

[MakeAJazzNoiseHere]

Yes, you could just grind down the Floyd blocks to fit.

Even if you do grind an R3 nut to the proper height, you still have to plug and re-drill the holes, which is not really that hard, but one of those things some guys would get nervous about.

[MartinBarre]

That link I gave you already will do you the blocks. I've bought two trems off that guy and the parts were the exact same sizes as the licenced Jackson trems on my SL3, KE3 and DK2M. They appear to be the same unit in every way minus the Jackson logo branded on them.

[veniculum]

I just wanted to follow up with you guys...thanks again for the replies. As it turns out, I brought the guitar to my tech, and he got me back up and running. We replaced the pots with CTSs, and we also replaced the 5-way switch with a Fender switch. For the nut blocks, he just filed them down a little, and they now fit perfectly.
The guitar now sounds and plays like it should.

Of course, upon getting it home, I immediately had to fuck around with it. I had an old chrome pickup ring..so I put it on. But to my horror, when tuning back up, the bridge was lifted way up on the high side (i.e. the bottom stud of the floyd was coming up and out of the body/hole...came up more than a quarter inch). I was able to push it back down, tune up, and everything was alright. But it's still a little disconcerting that this thing came up so easily. Do any of you guys know about how these studs are supposed to be installed in the body of the guitar. They're ridged...I suppose so they don't turn when you turn the string height adjustment screws...does that sound right? So I guess the question is, how tight are those studs supposed to be set in the body of the guitar...the one that popped up seems to be in there pretty good now....but I'd like to know how it did come up in the first place...especially since I don't ever recall this happening on any other FR trem that I've worked on/adjusted.

Anyway...thanks again for the replies. I appreciate it.

[Devotee]

A friend of mine had exactly the same issue with his SL3 and i fixed it by carefully applying some woodglue around the stud insert and pushing it in. You can do the same, but take care not too apply too much or it'll seep into the threaded area of the stud.

EDIT: And yes, you're right as to why the outside of the stud inserts are ridged. They're supposed to be in there pretty tight as they have to hold the studs of a Floyd without moving when you turn the height adjustment bolts.

[MakeAJazzNoiseHere]

Yep, carefully pull it out, slather some good wood glue on it in the ridges (I use Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Glue) and push it back in.

It is a good idea not to overdo it but you can wipe off the excess with a little water and it won't stick to the metal so it's OK if it gets in the threads a little, it will come right off.

[veniculum]

Thanks fellas...I will do just that. I looked at all my other Floyd equipped guitars, and those studs appear to be in there pretty good. Strangely enough, pretty much all of those guitars have the studs all the way down into the body....however, I noticed that none of them seem to be exact...in other words, some studs are flush with the body...some are sunk below (just a tad)...and in the case of this SL3, the high (e/b side) is about a mm above the body of the guitar. I pushed it down as far as it would go. The low side is just about flush to the body. I'm assuming this is just the way it was setup from the factory (ie that's how far the holes were drilled?...

Off the subject...I've also noticed that the rosewood fretboard is a lighter shade than most of my other rosewood boards. I've always been curious about this. Isn't rosewood just rosewood? For instance, I've got a Les Paul Std, a PRS custom 22, and an Ibanez Pretige... All have a rosewood board...but if you aren't looking closely, it almost looks ebony. This SL3 has a much lighter shade. And I often see guitars on the walls of the music store with a similar shade of rosewood. Any idea if this is attributed to a finish that is put on the board... Or are there different types of rosewood. To be honest, I've always associated Jacksons with ebony boards...so to see the shark-fin inlays against the lighter rosewood board is...interesting. I don't really have a preference as far as tone is concerned...but I do think the ebony is a little classier looking. Still...I have to wonder if ebony is more expensive. You tend to see it on higher priced guitars...but there are plenty of premium priced guitars that are rosewood equipped.
Anyway...figured I'd just comment here rather than start a thread that I'm sure has probably been brought up a million times.

Thanks again gentlemen...I really appreciate the advise/suggestions

[ginsambo]

If the studs are very loose and rocking, just watch that your trem doesn't chip the paint, and do maintenance before that event ever happens. This is what happened to my stealth LT with that had really loose rocking posts...But I think the body was made with basswood, although I have a feeling it was Balsa or Rubberwood, some kack for an expensive guitar in its day, thanks Jackson!

Very lightweight and cracks all over the place on the body, not very impressed, ready for the skip really, as every time you repaired it, it wood carve and depress some more wood away, wood was so soft. Sl3's are Alder I think so a bit denser grain and stronger. Stealth were a light guitar anyway but I think LT stood for extra 'LighT'

[MakeAJazzNoiseHere]

Thanks fellas...I will do just that. I looked at all my other Floyd equipped guitars, and those studs appear to be in there pretty good. Strangely enough, pretty much all of those guitars have the studs all the way down into the body....however, I noticed that none of them seem to be exact...in other words, some studs are flush with the body...some are sunk below (just a tad)...and in the case of this SL3, the high (e/b side) is about a mm above the body of the guitar. I pushed it down as far as it would go. The low side is just about flush to the body. I'm assuming this is just the way it was setup from the factory (ie that's how far the holes were drilled?...

It's how far they are pounded in. That's right, POUNDED in. You use a hammer, and it takes a fair amount of force. Not like driving a big nail, but more than a little tap. Now, compare that to how YOURS fits... It's not good if it is loose.

I would do the wood glue thing, and push it in there as far as it will go, or up to 1 mm or so lower than the surface. It can be flush with the surface, but should not be above. If it won't go flush, put the stud in (a junk stud in if you have one) and brace a wood block against the stud, and gently tap it the rest of the way in (with the glue still wet) until it is even with the surface.

Any good repair guy should be able to handle this if you're nervous about getting a hammer near the guitar.