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Anyway, last time I checked, the guitar police stated that if you are playing late '70's/early '80's Heavy Metal Rock n'roll, then you are only allowed 22 frets on a bolt on strat type guitar, or a 10 string thru neck BC Rich Bich or a Gibson Explorer or black Les Paul. If you are playing mid '80s heavy metal then you must have 24 frets and a floating floyd and graphic up until 1987, at which time you must forgo them all for a Gibson Les Paul. However if you are playing 1991 style onwards when you must stop playing and having fun all together until you eventually kill yourself in 1994 and pop takes over and suddenly its 2012 and the '80's are nostalgic.
OK I'II throw in a very aesthethic reason for yer no one has mentioned yet - Neck cracks.
I've never had either my throughneck SL3 or Mockingbird develop any issues other than a dry fretboard. Yesterday evening the paint through to the grey primer around the neck heel of my mint USA Wildcard #2 decides to pop itself right on the face of the guitar around the upper end corner of the neck heel so now there is a massive chip there.
Seriously I put down to modern Fender build quality than temperature/humidity, although it has got really dry - you can fit a £1 coin down either side of the neck joint, but the corners of the heel are the only bit where its tight....the paint was obviously projecting from masking and sure enough was the first to give. I've never ever had this problem with guitars I've built myself and I get the pockets pretty tight. Its just Fender being sloppy on the build.
Also have a half inch crack in my 2005 reissue and that has stayed in its case, although I think the last owner over tightened the screws a little on that one.
Anyway all the more reason to one day swap out the body with a KNE custom graphic one which are a lot more solid and better quality.
Seriously you look after these things, you control the humidity, I wouldn't have minded a bit of buckle rash or something. Think Buddha is on my case again. I'II have to take the neck off and try and sort it with superglue. Is a pretty shit paintjob anyway I guess but there goes the resale in case I was thinking of swapping it.
So if you want a mint guitar, especially considering Fender USA build quality - get a neckthrough.
You can't really be jealous of something you can't fathom.
So if you want a mint guitar, especially considering Fender USA build quality - get a neckthrough.
My 2001 USA Fender hardtail probably has more sustain than any of my other guitars, and nothing wrong with its build quality... and this is a guitar that sits in a stand in my bedroom all year long... I dust it off, play it through my computer sometimes, put it back. It does get its truss rod adjusted twice a year due to climate change.
I do also like neck-thru as well as set necks.
I feel my soul go cold... only the dead are smiling.
If you want 'Jackson' you don't really have much choice to choose from.
DK, PC - Bolt-On
RR, KE, SL, Star, Dominion, Warrior, Death Angel, etc. - Neck-Through
Rosewell Rhoads - Bolt-On(Neck-Through? maybe..)
Well, you COULD get Bolt-On through custom shop, but if you are considering getting a production version there is your choice..
By looking at the menu, it seems like Neck-Through would be more 'Jackson-ish' choice considering Jackson originally started from 'neck-through'...
Well then the other thing to consider is most bolt on necks generally have a more natural back finish, say oil finish or a nice buffed poly. Neck through are generally painted with the body. Some don't like the "stickyness" associated with painted neck backs. I don't think it means shit. Find what feels good. I have plenty of bolt on's that have great sustain as with many set necks and a couple neck throughs. As far as access to frets, there are plenty bolt on's that are sculpted/shaped/thinned, making it no problem for reach. My DK-1 is to me ,way quicker/smoother than my old Soloist and has sustain so close it's a toss up. It's also no issue getting to the heel frets.
After owning many dozens of Jacksons and Charvels, when it came down to picking the best of all of them, from standard production to full on one-off customs, I ended up with the two best players out of the lot.
One was a bolt-on the other was a neck-thru.
I can't even say it's preference for either construction method, it boils down to the guitar itself. Which one plays better for you? I can't say a bolt-on or a neck thru as I've had many of both and have sold many of both.
A magical guitar is a magical guitar. For you it might happen to be a neck thru, or a bolt on.
For me, it didn't boil down to which type, but which guitar. I've had two guitars that I could call my #1, and both of them were both quite different.
So I think this whole neck-thru or bolt-on question is kind of stupid. Play what feels best in your hands...
The 2nd Amendment: America's Original Homeland Defense.
My 2001 USA Fender hardtail probably has more sustain than any of my other guitars, and nothing wrong with its build quality... and this is a guitar that sits in a stand in my bedroom all year long... I dust it off, play it through my computer sometimes, put it back. It does get its truss rod adjusted twice a year due to climate change.
I do also like neck-thru as well as set necks.
Don't get me wrong, the 2005 Charvel is amazing quality and I'd rather play a recent USA pro mod than a Japanese one...but you got to admit the quality is down on the USA pro mods, paint shrinkage, neck pockets etc, although I've found my Japanese one is in need of a major setup. My best sustaining guitars are a hand built kramer Pacer bolt on copy and a mexican vintage trem strat with a crack in the neck pocket that goes all the way up the guitar body, almost through to the rear strap button. The strat is also so the bext playing and most comfortable and shredable with a low action and never frets out, so go figure? Certainly blows the logical rules and reasons out of the water.
You can't really be jealous of something you can't fathom.
Depending on the heel you can get better fret access with a neck thru if your a REAL guitar snob. But bolt on's are great and easy to replace. You snap a 3 piece neck that's neck through and you have yourself a nice set of parts to put on your next guitar...
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