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When is a Jackson/Charvel no longer a Jackson/Charvel?
Haha! That's right! It's a Ford Pinto, an American Motors Gremlin, and a Chevrolet Vega, right?
Same difference!
with that logic jackson, esp, kramer, same difference. to me C/Js are higher end US made solid body electrics, i consider my model 6 almost like a import replica with a cool logo.
Fear of fucking up that 5-way megaswitch probably.
The Jackson megaswitches, as neat as they are, are the bane of my existence. The two I have currently were wired up differently, and I can't really figure them out. The regular Allparts megaswitch seems a lot simpler. I've wired those up before with no problems.
body & neck. Anything else is ripe for change. Hardware, pickups, electronics, all of it can be changed and improved without losing the essence of the manufacturer's intent. I never understood why someone would buy a Model series Charvel and then look to put a strathead neck on it. Strathead Charvels are cool and all, but if you take away that Charvel neck the guitar is no longer a Charvel. It's a mutt - Charvel body, some other manufacturer's neck. And with Jacksons & Charvels, it's all about the neck
What Vit'G said. As long as the body & neck are original then it is still a J/C. Come to think of it I don't have a Jackson that wasn't modded to some degree. RRXMG has an old school screw-in bar instead of the newer locknut style (eventually an OFR or Gotoh1996), SLXMG has an OFR with old school screw-in bar, KV-PRO has EMGs, & the DXMG also has EMG 89s with push/pull pots (both volume for each pickup). The original J/Cs were esentially that, the J/C body & neck & then whatever bridge, pickups as well as configuration, hardware, paint, & other circuits the buyer ordered.
with that logic jackson, esp, kramer, same difference. to me C/Js are higher end US made solid body electrics, i consider my model 6 almost like a import replica with a cool logo.
Oh no, don't get me wrong, I wasn't equating a Charvel to a Gremlin, or any of that
I'm fact, I'm an import guy all the way. I accept no substitutes,
including many Jackson Soloists that just could not keep pace, sound wise, to Model 5 and Model 6
If there are elitists on the Jackson side, believe me, some might consider me an elitist on the Charvel side.
This thread has helped me out, though. What it says on the title is what it is. The purist in me will keep old hardware,
pups, and such, just because I attach my own value to them. Right or wrong.
I do hang on to old pickups & hardware. Partly because it might be nice to restore a guitar to spec, partly because I'd get next to nothing selling them anyway. They're all labelled so they can be returned to their original guitar.
The answer lies within the unasked question....
What are your intentions to do with the guitar?
Are you playing it, hanging it on your wall, or selling it. Selling it as a guitar or as memorabilia.
I see all of the car talk, so look at it this way....
an all original 1958 Plymouth Fury is rare to find. car parts break and get replaced all the time. A restored-to-factory-new 1958 Plymouth Fury is different than an original 1958 Plymouth Fury which is different than a 1958 Plymouth Fury that has been modified, hotrodded, and updated with modern features (like a cd player or gps). All of which are the same car, but all of which have different purposes and will appeal to different drivers, riders, and buyers.
Back to the guitar....
It's yours. Do with it as you will. If you are a player, make it yours to play. Change whatever. When you sell it, don't sell it to a historian because your guitar isn't history. Sell it to another player, one who has similar interests as you so he can most likely appreciate what you've done to it without changing it again.
Perhaps you should keep a 'change log'. And pass it down the the next owner. Just in case anyone wants ever do a historical evaluation.
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While on the subject of 'original'.
I have a 1987 Jackson Strat (literally called a strat, not a dinky or soloist, but resembles a dinky due to the bolt on neck) USA made (San Dimas). It is in all original condition. I mean all original. I have never even changed the strings. It makes sense that the store may have changed strings on the thing at some point while it was hanging on the wall, but it is all original from the date of purchase. No scratches, no chips or dings. The only real signs of wear are:
the back of the neck is a little dirty - easily cleaned
locking nut and bridge saddles have some of the original black finish wearing off, but are not showing string wear
i did need to replace the 2 9volt batteries that power the single humbucker - yes, i said two nine volts to power one pickup
the back plates that cover the trem springs and the electronics have some surface scratches because they are fitted so perfectly that they can sometimes be a chore to remove
other than that, this thing is showroom condition. even has the original price tag/sticker. for some reason, the finish has even managed to repel years of smoke (mine and barrooms). never broke a string. trem never goes out of tune. weather conditions have never affected tuning or intonation. sometimes I think it must be possessed, like in the movie Christine.
Plus, it glows in the dark.
Pianoguyy it has to be be a Dinky or a super strat if its an 87.
A soloist is a neck thru, Dinky and super strat are bolt on guitars.Who cleans the back of a neck on an 80's Jackson or Charvel anyway?
Change the strings please if you actually play it.
Back to the OP if the body and neck are J/C then thats what it is hardware changes don't mean a whole lot.
Now I can understand if you find a mint example of an 80's USA Charvel or Jackson and all the numbers are on the log sheets I can see not changing hardware if you plan of selling it down the road.
Pianoguyy it has to be be a Dinky or a super strat if its an 87.
A soloist is a neck thru, Dinky and super strat are bolt on guitars.Who cleans the back of a neck on an 80's Jackson or Charvel anyway?
Change the strings please if you actually play it.
Back to the OP if the body and neck are J/C then thats what it is hardware changes don't mean a whole lot.
Now I can understand if you find a mint example of an 80's USA Charvel or Jackson and all the numbers are on the log sheets I can see not changing hardware if you plan of selling it down the road.
In this particular case, which prompted the question, the guitar in question in a Model 3A, made in 1986, in very, very nice, unmolested condition. I bought it so cheap, for its condition, with the plans to mod it, but when I got it in hand, I was like "Wow, I know I put my own value on it, but it looks too great in it's original condition to mod!" But then I asked this question - because yes, I play my guitars - a lot! - and I got a lot of great answers. A really old Charvel guy I know echoed some thoughts in here, just keep the original pups, and roll with the new pups for sound. He also said, "For God's sake if you're going to sell it, you'd think it might fetch a nicer price with the Dimarzzio pups you put in there, but don't sell it like that...put the originals back in."
I highly doubt any well done mods will effect the price or collectibility of a 3A. Part of the reason why original collectibles can fetch more is because there aren't that many. Especially 80s shredders changing parts was almost the norm.
If it sounds good leave it if not mod it they are meant to be played.
It's easy to compare collectible cars with guitars but they are VERY different. A Completely restored 59LP is almost worthless, completely restored cars are the top of the market except for documented garage queens.
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