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Loose Truss-Rod Woes!!

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  • #16
    When did Jackson/Charvel stop using the single-adjusting rod, though?
    I feel my soul go cold... only the dead are smiling.

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    • #17
      According to customer support "2-way truss" "double expanding truss" "dual action truss" are just different names....all the same truss!!


      Could not tell me when J/C started using them....gave me the "we didn't get those records" line!!

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      • #18
        I've got a few 89,90,91 strats...I'll have to check this. Do they have the same 1/4" bolt end as the earlier ones? Or are those the ones that need the T-handle metric hex key to adjust? Can you even tell by that? I'd rather not experiment by ratcheting them back and forth. My guess is both styles were offered in parallel for a while.
        _________________________________________________
        "Artists should be free to spend their days mastering their craft so that working people can toil away in a more beautiful world."
        - Ken M

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        • #19
          CJ's have had two way trusses as far back as I can remember.
          The 2nd Amendment: America's Original Homeland Defense.

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          • #20
            Did some digging: another thread on this forum says Jackson started using dual action truss rods around 2002-2003.

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            • #21
              I have a KV2 from 2000-2002 (don't remember which year) that has a slight backbow problem, and definitely does NOT have a dual action truss rod. As long as I use strings heavier than 9-42, it's not an issue.

              Pat

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              • #22
                K or Sully....did the JCF-01s have a dual-action truss??

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by Chad View Post
                  Did some digging: another thread on this forum says Jackson started using dual action truss rods around 2002-2003.
                  Interesting. I had a 2000 RR1T and a 2004 RR1T, and I thought they both had the dual-action rods.
                  I feel my soul go cold... only the dead are smiling.

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                  • #24
                    The backbow occurs because once you remove a large amount of material from one side of a wood blank like you would on a true neck-thru guitar it will naturally want to bend in that direction i.e.. a 2" thick piece of wood 40" long being reduced to 1/2" for the neck profile , add the install of fretwire and that only adds to the likelihood of it happening . Not as common on set necks or bolt on's because the wood is shorter and thinner to start with so it is less likely to warp, my guess is that it's because the moisture content is naturally higher the larger the piece of wood and once you remove the extra wood it allows for further drying causing warpage. Usually in the absence of a 2 way trussrod you can correct the problem with a fret level, I've also had good results by bending/forcing the neck to have a forward bow with a clamp and leaving it for a period of time obviously not too much bow as to damage the neck but around a 1/8" to 3/16" at the centre will do the job.

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by BlackRR View Post
                      The backbow occurs because once you remove a large amount of material from one side of a wood blank like you would on a true neck-thru guitar it will naturally want to bend in that direction i.e.. a 2" thick piece of wood 40" long being reduced to 1/2" for the neck profile , add the install of fretwire and that only adds to the likelihood of it happening . Not as common on set necks or bolt on's because the wood is shorter and thinner to start with so it is less likely to warp, my guess is that it's because the moisture content is naturally higher the larger the piece of wood and once you remove the extra wood it allows for further drying causing warpage. Usually in the absence of a 2 way trussrod you can correct the problem with a fret level, I've also had good results by bending/forcing the neck to have a forward bow with a clamp and leaving it for a period of time obviously not too much bow as to damage the neck but around a 1/8" to 3/16" at the centre will do the job.
                      How much time ? I've wondered about putting very heavy gauge strings on and tuning a few steps sharp to do the same thing and letting the guitar sit for a few months, maybe even subject it to a few hot steamy bathroom visits.

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                      • #26
                        I've always used a clamp because you can control where you apply the pressure and how much you apply in a more controlled manner, more tension on the low "e" side vs. high "e" may cause the neck to twist as well as bow and to much tension on the nut or headstock may not be the best for it either. I've never tried using strings to do the job and am not sure if it would work but if I was going to use strings I would use the same gauge string for all 6 across the board and tune to the same pitch on each to be as uniform and stable as possible. If at all possible use the clamping method it is more efficient and safer . In terms of time I have had results in as little as a few days but it really depends on how aggressive you get and the neck itself. I would leave it for a few days and check it and see if has improved any, you can always repeat the process if it needs it. When you remove the tension if it looks like you've overdone it don't worry it will come back a little once it settles again in a day or two. It's possible it won't work but I've always had good luck.

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                        • #27
                          I've been following this thread a lil bit and pondering, would it be worth the time, effort, and money to change to a dual-action truss rod? I know that probably depends on how much you like the guitar, its value in the market and other things.
                          In memory of Gary Wright 9/13/2012

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