When did Jackson/Charvel stop using the single-adjusting rod, though?
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Loose Truss-Rod Woes!!
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I've got a few 89,90,91 strats...I'll have to check this. Do they have the same 1/4" bolt end as the earlier ones? Or are those the ones that need the T-handle metric hex key to adjust? Can you even tell by that? I'd rather not experiment by ratcheting them back and forth. My guess is both styles were offered in parallel for a while._________________________________________________
"Artists should be free to spend their days mastering their craft so that working people can toil away in a more beautiful world."
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Originally posted by Chad View PostDid some digging: another thread on this forum says Jackson started using dual action truss rods around 2002-2003.I feel my soul go cold... only the dead are smiling.
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The backbow occurs because once you remove a large amount of material from one side of a wood blank like you would on a true neck-thru guitar it will naturally want to bend in that direction i.e.. a 2" thick piece of wood 40" long being reduced to 1/2" for the neck profile , add the install of fretwire and that only adds to the likelihood of it happening . Not as common on set necks or bolt on's because the wood is shorter and thinner to start with so it is less likely to warp, my guess is that it's because the moisture content is naturally higher the larger the piece of wood and once you remove the extra wood it allows for further drying causing warpage. Usually in the absence of a 2 way trussrod you can correct the problem with a fret level, I've also had good results by bending/forcing the neck to have a forward bow with a clamp and leaving it for a period of time obviously not too much bow as to damage the neck but around a 1/8" to 3/16" at the centre will do the job.
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Originally posted by BlackRR View PostThe backbow occurs because once you remove a large amount of material from one side of a wood blank like you would on a true neck-thru guitar it will naturally want to bend in that direction i.e.. a 2" thick piece of wood 40" long being reduced to 1/2" for the neck profile , add the install of fretwire and that only adds to the likelihood of it happening . Not as common on set necks or bolt on's because the wood is shorter and thinner to start with so it is less likely to warp, my guess is that it's because the moisture content is naturally higher the larger the piece of wood and once you remove the extra wood it allows for further drying causing warpage. Usually in the absence of a 2 way trussrod you can correct the problem with a fret level, I've also had good results by bending/forcing the neck to have a forward bow with a clamp and leaving it for a period of time obviously not too much bow as to damage the neck but around a 1/8" to 3/16" at the centre will do the job.
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I've always used a clamp because you can control where you apply the pressure and how much you apply in a more controlled manner, more tension on the low "e" side vs. high "e" may cause the neck to twist as well as bow and to much tension on the nut or headstock may not be the best for it either. I've never tried using strings to do the job and am not sure if it would work but if I was going to use strings I would use the same gauge string for all 6 across the board and tune to the same pitch on each to be as uniform and stable as possible. If at all possible use the clamping method it is more efficient and safer . In terms of time I have had results in as little as a few days but it really depends on how aggressive you get and the neck itself. I would leave it for a few days and check it and see if has improved any, you can always repeat the process if it needs it. When you remove the tension if it looks like you've overdone it don't worry it will come back a little once it settles again in a day or two. It's possible it won't work but I've always had good luck.
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