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Why are non-recessed OFRs not more available? (Jackson/Charvel or other makers)
The wood that you waste in cutting a neckthru with non-recessed trem is recovered by the pullup route that you don't have to carve under the trem on a recessed guitar.
Since the time I started this topic, I now have guitars of various bridge heights and learned it doesn't matter. It doesn't affect my playing. I am equally bad on all bridge heights.
I have recently learned that a long block does not necessarily equate to a Floyd floating high above the body. I learned that it depends on neck joint and how dramatic an angle the neck is relative to the body.
Pic below is of a USA Charvel So-Cal (white guitar) with 40mm sustain block and USA Jackson Shannon Soloist (black guitar) with 42mm sustain block. With the Shannon, as I mentioned earlier in this thread, I can pull up a long way on the Floyd before it "tops out" because of the dramatic neck angle relative to the body and how high the Floyd sits above the body. With the So-Cal, the angle is smaller and the Floyd floats closer to the body, severely limiting pull-up ability. (Maybe Green Meanie came like this, which is why Steve Vai dug the route underneath the trem for increased pull-up.) So in that way I'm actually disappointed that not all non-recessed Floyds sit as high as they do on the Shannon.
I assume I would not shim the neck uniformly? ie - only put shims on the "butt end" of the pocket to increase tilt towards the bridge? Will the neck screws still go in straight? Won't the neck no longer remain tight and flush with the pocket; ie - less wood contact between neck and pocket?
Considering I play equally bad on all bridge types () and I rarely pull up dramatically, I have no idea why I even started this topic and am making such a big deal about bridge height.
Yeah, just shim at the body end - you only need a thin shim to actually make quite a difference (levers and all that). The neck screws will go in at a fractionally different angle but don't worry about it..
If you really want to do it permanently and you want the neck flush to the pocket:
Yeah, just shim at the body end - you only need a thin shim to actually make quite a difference (levers and all that). The neck screws will go in at a fractionally different angle but don't worry about it..
Seems legit, but that will blow away all my cryptic neck heel markings that I love!
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"Artists should be free to spend their days mastering their craft so that working people can toil away in a more beautiful world."
- Ken M
That pic shows exactly why I prefer the Recessed vs the Top Mount. I love the lower feel.
It shows exactly why I like the top mount. The strings are still low with that famous feel all the way down the neck but you don't get the interference of the controls in your picking/strumming/string manipulating path. The strings sit at the top of the knob with the bonus effect of more bar clearance on volume knob. I get the love of the recessed feeling but that volume knob gets in the way. I suppose the optional CS move of the knob might fix that but I haven't had a chance to play one of those. I was just comparing my preference in standard config Soloists.
It is an 87 Custom Soloist, the black one. I think the blue you see is a reflection from the strap, it's my main player. This pics is L-R 86,87,88,89 AT
As you can see I like the early Soloist top mounts.
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