Why are non-recessed OFRs not more available? (Jackson/Charvel or other makers)

[Catharpin]

It is an 87 Custom Soloist, the black one. I think the blue you see is a reflection from the strap, it's my main player. This pics is L-R 86,87,88,89 AT
As you can see I like the early Soloist top mounts.

[Number Of The Priest]

Catharpin, is your blue guitar a blue ghost flames Shannon Soloist? Have you come across other guitars with such a dramatically high Floyd height?

Is your gold guitar an SL1?

[Catharpin]

That pic shows exactly why I prefer the Recessed vs the Top Mount. I love the lower feel.

It shows exactly why I like the top mount. The strings are still low with that famous feel all the way down the neck but you don't get the interference of the controls in your picking/strumming/string manipulating path. The strings sit at the top of the knob with the bonus effect of more bar clearance on volume knob. I get the love of the recessed feeling but that volume knob gets in the way. I suppose the optional CS move of the knob might fix that but I haven't had a chance to play one of those. I was just comparing my preference in standard config Soloists.

[Banjowarrior]

I was avoiding the F word for fear of being pelted with pointy headstocks...

[xenophobe]

I wonder if you could retrofit a micro tilt type system

That all depends on what you mean by retrofit. I have a Floyd on my Fender Deluxe, the neck microadjust made it easily possible.

[Banjowarrior]

I wonder if you could retrofit a micro tilt type system

[Axewielder]

Yeah, just shim at the body end - you only need a thin shim to actually make quite a difference (levers and all that). The neck screws will go in at a fractionally different angle but don't worry about it..

If you really want to do it permanently and you want the neck flush to the pocket:
http://www.ebay.com/gds/LUTHIER-TIP-...5372106/g.html

Seems legit, but that will blow away all my cryptic neck heel markings that I love!

[neilli]

Yeah, just shim at the body end - you only need a thin shim to actually make quite a difference (levers and all that). The neck screws will go in at a fractionally different angle but don't worry about it..

If you really want to do it permanently and you want the neck flush to the pocket:

http://www.ebay.com/gds/LUTHIER-TIP-ELIMINATE-SHIMS-FROM-YOUR-BOLT-ON-NECK-/10000000005372106/g.html

[Number Of The Priest]

I assume I would not shim the neck uniformly? ie - only put shims on the "butt end" of the pocket to increase tilt towards the bridge? Will the neck screws still go in straight? Won't the neck no longer remain tight and flush with the pocket; ie - less wood contact between neck and pocket?

Considering I play equally bad on all bridge types () and I rarely pull up dramatically, I have no idea why I even started this topic and am making such a big deal about bridge height.

[shreddermon]

Shim the neck for more angle, and you'll get more pull-up range.

[Number Of The Priest]

Since the time I started this topic, I now have guitars of various bridge heights and learned it doesn't matter. It doesn't affect my playing. I am equally bad on all bridge heights.

I have recently learned that a long block does not necessarily equate to a Floyd floating high above the body. I learned that it depends on neck joint and how dramatic an angle the neck is relative to the body.

Pic below is of a USA Charvel So-Cal (white guitar) with 40mm sustain block and USA Jackson Shannon Soloist (black guitar) with 42mm sustain block. With the Shannon, as I mentioned earlier in this thread, I can pull up a long way on the Floyd before it "tops out" because of the dramatic neck angle relative to the body and how high the Floyd sits above the body. With the So-Cal, the angle is smaller and the Floyd floats closer to the body, severely limiting pull-up ability. (Maybe Green Meanie came like this, which is why Steve Vai dug the route underneath the trem for increased pull-up.) So in that way I'm actually disappointed that not all non-recessed Floyds sit as high as they do on the Shannon.

[Number Of The Priest]

The wood that you waste in cutting a neckthru with non-recessed trem is recovered by the pullup route that you don't have to carve under the trem on a recessed guitar.

[j2379]

you waste more wood w a non recessed especially when making true neck thrus. the angle means you need a thicker piece of wood. Granted w a scarf joint i don't think it makes as much of a difference. I prefer non recessed, just what i learned on old school non recessed floyds and TOM type bridges. hardtails, recessed floyds and some kahlers, & Vtrems the strings are so close to the body it just doesn't feel right to me.

[Number Of The Priest]

What affordable, "mass-produced" guitars (from any manufacturer) have that angled neck and 42mm-block non-recessed Floyd?

Found some more on the current Kramer website. The Pacer (all variants), Baretta Vintage, and The '84 all have non-recessed Floyds, but I'm not entirely certain if they float above the body high enough to warrant the neck angle and 42mm sustain block.

[mantis]

I snapped an like for like Soloist comparison.
With recess the base plate and strings should parallel the body and the neck.
With top mount (non recess) the base plate and strings should parallel the neck only.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]8732[/ATTACH]

That pic shows exactly why I prefer the Recessed vs the Top Mount. I love the lower feel.