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SL-3 Veneer thickness and Bridge?

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  • #1

    SL-3 Veneer thickness and Bridge?

    I have seen some good deals on SL-3 lately (($599 wiht case). How thick is the maple veneer on the SL-3? I had read a tread somewhere stating that a thin veneer dampens the resonance of the wood; whereas, a thicker maple "cap" is tone enhancing. Does anybody know this minimum thickness and is it a valid point. Also, is the JT-50LP a good bridge? Ha anybody had any problems with them. I have an old USA FUsion with a Jackson bridge and two or the intonation screws are stripped. Is this a problem with the JT-50LP? WHat about the tone and tuning stability?

    Thanks,
    Ricey
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  • #2
    Re: SL-3 Veneer thickness and Bridge?

    I have an SL-3, but I have no idea how thick the cap is...I would guess its a veneer. As for the bridge, i've never had any problems with it, and i abuse the hell out of the whammy - its always in tune. Never had a problem with stripped screws or anything. Its a really good guitar, in my opinion.

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    • #3
      Re: SL-3 Veneer thickness and Bridge?

      My brother just picked one up at GC in Buffalo for $599 (SKB Freedom hardshell case included). Seems like a good deal, but Airport Music in Buffalo also has one for a similar price. They are regulary tagged for about $1000. How do these stack up against the USA SL-1's?

      Ricey

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      • #4
        Re: SL-3 Veneer thickness and Bridge?

        What's a JT-50LP? It's JT-580LP. [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img] I've had a few Jacksons with that trem, never had a problem.
        I feel my soul go cold... only the dead are smiling.

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        • #5
          Re: SL-3 Veneer thickness and Bridge?

          Simply a typo, the "8's" got lost somewhere (twice no less). I kind of mutilated the words "with", "thread", "has", and "or" as well.
          Definitely one of my most careless posts! Good thing we don't get graded on these things!

          BTW, my brother is rethinking the whole thing now. I think he got a great deal, but he seriously wants to return the SL-3 and go with a USA SL-1 for an additional $600. The SL-1 may be a little more guitar (OFR, Ebony fingerboard, binding, MOP inlays, QS neck); but, objectively, is it really twice as valuable? It certaily does not sound "twice" as good or play "twice" as well. Still, you can't go wrong with a USA Jackson (I love my USA Fusion) and I am sure he will never regret the purchase.

          [ June 04, 2004, 11:14 PM: Message edited by: Ricey ]

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          • #6
            Re: SL-3 Veneer thickness and Bridge?

            I can't believe I screwed up yet another post (certainly)! I am going to bed!

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            • #7
              Re: SL-3 Veneer thickness and Bridge?

              I used to play an SL3 and loved it. ....Until I got My SL2H and then the SL3 felt like a cheap japaneese import. Tell your brother to go with the USA models. If nothing else they will hold thier value beter ( never mind the quality difference which is easy to see if you can play them side by side.)
              If this is our perdition, will you walk with me?

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              • #8
                Re: SL-3 Veneer thickness and Bridge?

                I used to play an SL3 and loved it. ....Until I got My SL2H and then the SL3 felt like a cheap japaneese import. Tell your brother to go with the USA models. If nothing else they will hold thier value beter ( never mind the quality difference which is easy to see if you can play them side by side.)
                If this is our perdition, will you walk with me?

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                • #9
                  Re: SL-3 Veneer thickness and Bridge?

                  It's just a veneer. Nothing there to help or hurt the sound. It's there purely for aesthetic reasons.

                  The JT580 is pretty good. Some people badmouth it, but they're the same ones that complain about anything that's not an OFR. As long as you're not going to be doing Vai-style masturbating 24/7, it'll hold up. I've seen a few cases where the screws have stripped, but as long as you don't overtighten them they'll last as long as any other screw on any other trem. They stay in tune rather well, as long as you set them up right.

                  Unless you HAVE to have binding and an ebony board, don't bother with the USA. I don't like USA Soloists, and I can't see the point in spending the extra money for one. The imports have a thinner neck and a slightly different neck/body joint, and play MUCH better IMO. This isn't true for any other USA vs Japan comparisons. US King V's and Warriors and so on play and feel much better than the import counterparts. Soloists just DON'T.

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