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Identifying Charvel Jackson guitar

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  • Identifying Charvel Jackson guitar

    Hi Everyone

    I just was gifted a yellow Charvel Jackson guitar and I'd like to figure out its age and model. Photos are here:



    If relevant, the color is yellower than white, the picture of it in the stand is the most accurate colorwise to my eye.

    THANKS in advance for any help :-)

  • #2
    charvel model 2, between 1987 and 1989. somebody else can probably pinpoint the year. color is pearl white.

    the jt6 bridge seems to be missing some parts and is strung up incorrectly in the photos.

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    • #3
      It was probably whiter when new and has yellowed with time

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      • #4
        Originally posted by metalhobo View Post
        the jt6 bridge seems to be missing some parts
        Yes, parts are missing. But many people do the 'single locking' method. So, it isn't that big of a deal... but will cost money to replace if someone wants to do it correctly or plans to sell it.


        and is strung up incorrectly in the photos.
        If you look closely, I am not sure it is strung up at all.
        There is no way that E string has tension on it (after the lock).

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        • #5
          Originally posted by metalhobo View Post
          charvel model 2, between 1987 and 1989. somebody else can probably pinpoint the year. color is pearl white.
          You and I know that production doesn't start/stop based on the calendar year. So saying 1989 is ok when talking to each other. But to a lesser knowledgeable person, we should probably keep it to the 'defined' ending year of 1988. So, it would be a 1987-1988 model year.


          But, no, there is no way to narrow it down. The bolt-on Model Series didn't have identifiers, and wasn't around long enough to differentiate features (other then the 1986 guitars being different than the rest). The best we can do is compare it to other serial numbers, the way we do with the 96x MIJ guitars - and all that gets us is somewhere between 1987 and 1988, which is no different than what we already know.

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          • #6
            I'd go with 87-ish because of the nut! But what do I know about catalogs (answer, nothing) I think pinaguyy is on point
            I know the old saying that the value of an opinion is generally inversely proportional to the strength with which it is held.

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            • #7
              Thanks everyone for their help. I searched the case and found some other bits - a whammy bar and some small pieces, see last photo: https://photos.app.goo.gl/vchweBZDL8qPEgdM8. Do I have all the pieces?

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              • #8
                Originally posted by JCDC View Post
                Thanks everyone for their help. I searched the case and found some other bits - a whammy bar and some small pieces, see last photo: https://photos.app.goo.gl/vchweBZDL8qPEgdM8. Do I have all the pieces?

                You would need to have 6 of the bigger black pieces.
                And the 2 smaller pieces... I can't be sure what they are in this photo, but they look like spare parts - the black part that is on the bar. Once upon a time, Jackson was nice to their customers and provided spare parts like that.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by pianoguyy View Post
                  Yes, parts are missing. But many people do the 'single locking' method. So, it isn't that big of a deal... but will cost money to replace if someone wants to do it correctly or plans to sell it.
                  I cant believe I never thought of it but I guess one could do the "single lock" method as pictured if they were missing the JT6 sting lock blocks. Does it work ok? I assume you just tighten the setscrew against the ball end of the string? Does it work? I have never heard of doing this.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by sonikk71 View Post

                    I cant believe I never thought of it but I guess one could do the "single lock" method as pictured if they were missing the JT6 sting lock blocks. Does it work ok? I assume you just tighten the setscrew against the ball end of the string? Does it work? I have never heard of doing this.
                    the wraps of the string go past the saddle, which you definitely don't want. it probably sounds funky and doesn't intonate right. not to mention palm muting would be a literal pain.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by sonikk71 View Post

                      I cant believe I never thought of it but I guess one could do the "single lock" method as pictured if they were missing the JT6 sting lock blocks. Does it work ok? I assume you just tighten the setscrew against the ball end of the string? Does it work? I have never heard of doing this.

                      I don't know if it works on a JT6, or if it does - how well.
                      And on some Floyd-style trems, you lose the ability to use the fine tuners.

                      It is certainly not the correct way, nor is it even an good choice - I mean, who uses ball ends. That's where most strings break.
                      But, it will get you by in a pinch.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by pianoguyy View Post


                        I don't know if it works on a JT6, or if it does - how well.
                        And on some Floyd-style trems, you lose the ability to use the fine tuners.

                        It is certainly not the correct way, nor is it even an good choice - I mean, who uses ball ends. That's where most strings break.
                        But, it will get you by in a pinch.
                        I figured so. But I just had to ask.

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