A string of custom shop questions/opinions wanted

[GuitarSalad]

Background: I spaced out a custom shop select Rhoads build. (Can post but I don’t have the image on my phone right now.) I got the response from the dealer. Prior to pulling the trigger, I sought out some random internet advice, and one person’s is making me think quite a bit:

Why put together something that’s a souped up version of a USA Select? Make a few choices that you wouldn’t see otherwise. Make it look like a custom guitar.

Now that you know that, here are the things that I’m considering modifying:

Finish: Originally going with a snow white with black bevels and a black pick guard. I kind of like the idea of deleting the pick guard, adding a flame maple top and asking for transparent white paint. Big question on this is whether I can still get the white w/ black bevels look. Does the maple top flatten the top of the body and eliminate the bevels? Would trans black or solid black bevels be an odd look with the trans white paint (if they’ll even accept that request)? I do like the contrast of the black on white. Is there something else I should think about considering to get some similar contrast (body binding)?

Wood: I think I’m going to change from Alder to mahogany for the body wood. Why not, right? Why should I or shouldn’t I consider a different neck wood? I was thinking of possibly doing a mahogany or 3 piece maple neck. I’m haven’t convinced myself 100% to change the neck because I love the standard maple speed neck on my KV-2. Any thoughts?

I’m planning on asking these questions to the dealer, but a few other opinions never hurt anything.

[wrldeatr7]

They don't make USA Select models anymore so there goes that point.

I despise pick guards, it makes a guitar instantly look cheap even though I think on Rhoads models at least they are made of metal and not plastic, but still.

They do top + bevels, on the Andreu Rhoads for instance, so it is possible. That's the only case I know, usually they go flat with tops. Trans bevels would look odd I think. Solid black with trans white should work. Depending on how much white paint they put on there. At least the Indonesian trans whites are very inconsistent in terms of color, some are very transparent others are whiter. Not sure how the CS does it. I also like the contrast of white with black bevels. I don't care much for tops. Flame maple isn't much to look at and the Rhoads doesn't have a whole lot of body wood. Quilted maple is a bit more interesting but on the asymmetric body of the Rhoads it may be weird. Personally, I'd stick to the original snow white. But you could also add black pinstripes like on the RR3 and RRX24M and definitely black binding on the headstock. I imagine body binding would make it flat.

I dislike mahogany, it's an ugly wood and rather soft. So it's not a commonly used for necks. My BC Rich has a mahogany neck but that neck is very thick. On a thin Jackson neck, mahogany wouldn't work, otherwise FMIC would be all over it since mahogany is cheap. So I'd go with 3 piece maple.

[GuitarSalad]

Thanks! What are the advantages of a 3-piece neck over a single-piece, quarter-sawn maple neck? I was going with a painted neck, so there’s no need to go with the 3-piece for anything aesthetic (if that would matter).

[wrldeatr7]

Not sure there's an advantage. Stability perhaps, in theory at least. I doubt anyone has ever compared them. But since it takes more work, and costs more, there's more value in it. I find them more appealing aesthetically than single piece + scarf joint, especially since I prefer oiled necks. But if you're going to have it painted, I guess it won't matter. I brought it up since you mentioned 3-piece maple in the original post.

[metalhobo]

cost of three piece vs one piece quartersawn is debatable. the cost of the quartersawn neck blank is nontrivial compared to three pieces.