Kelly K-10 Pro? (pic inside)

[Newc]

I think you're right. The more I look at the pic, the more it looks like the bar is jammed in the bushing and the entire thing came out.

Fascinating.

[The Magic Hoof]

With the help of the last few posts, I was able to do this:



But not without any cosmetic damage:





The reason I never suspected this is because the bushing has unscrewed with the bar ever since I bought it, and the fact that I once tried unscrewing that part from the bar but it wouldn't budge. I was feeling adventurous and was in a risk-taking mood just now, so I tried it again, and it didn't work the first time. Then I said screw it (no pun intended) and got some locking pliers and it almost literally took all of my might to get it unscrewed from the bar. That's why I never suspected it.


Now, the question is how I can make this have more smooth of a motion and get it to not jiggle around so it will kind of stay up when I'm using it. There's probably some kind of little plastic/rubber bushing that works with this, right?

Thanks for your help guys.




EDIT: I forgot to mention that the reason I thought it was missing an extra piece is because the bar I posted above (with the arrow I made) looks like it has another piece on it, but it had the nut/washer thing on it. Kind of like having 2 parts on the end of it, and mine had the first part, but not the 2nd one which an arrow is pointing to, so that's what confused me.

[Sunbane]

Get some loctite/threadlock for that bushing.

[Newc]

Normally those inserts do have a nylon washer at the base, but you probably won't have better results with the bar itself. Those types of bars are generally not sized to a tight enough tolerance to eliminate wobble unless they're screwed in tightly (which is most likely why this one was jammed).

Best you can do is get a new bar and bushing, or get a whole new trem if you can. An Original Floyd Rose should be a direct replacement, or a Schaller.

[The Magic Hoof]

Normally those inserts do have a nylon washer at the base, but you probably won't have better results with the bar itself. Those types of bars are generally not sized to a tight enough tolerance to eliminate wobble unless they're screwed in tightly (which is most likely why this one was jammed).

Best you can do is get a new bar and bushing, or get a whole new trem if you can. An Original Floyd Rose should be a direct replacement, or a Schaller.

Hmm. If I knew where to get one of these nylon washers, I'd try that first. I wouldn't want to invest in a new OFR since it'd be around $200 for it and would defeat the purpose since I only paid $450 for this guitar, but I'm willing to try anything else.

I put the piece back in the bridge and then screwed the trem arm in, and it seems I'm having a lot better results with it. It doesn't lock down extremely tight any more and it stays up. All I need it to do now is to slowly, slowly move back down by itself after I'm done using it. It will stay in whatever place I put it in and it isn't jiggling around which is good, but if I could fix it to where it will slowly get out of my way instead of me having to move it, I'll be set.

[VitaminG]

No no, you DO need that bushing - the bar does not screw directly into the baseplate.

The collar on the bar screws onto the top of the bushing. All collared bars require the bushing. Jackson did have one model trem that the bar screwed directly into the baseplate, but the hole it screwed into was an actual part of the sustain block (the JT580 non-LP, I believe).

that's not a collar on the bar though. A collar would have the thread inside to screw down onto an external thread on the piece attached to the baseplate. But that external thread looks more like it would screw directly into the baseplate, and then the bar screws into it.

I think this pic confirms it:



That's a solid piece. And from the other pic MH has posted, it looks like a standard vintage-style bar that winds into the piece above.

The Takeuchi trem on my Fusion Plus has a similar setup. It has a nut & washer that screws down into the baseplate and a vintage trem arm winds down into it. I've been meaning to replace the whole assembly for ages, and am actually awaiting a parts delivery to arrive to rectify that situation

[Inazone]

Kelly K-10 Pro = Musician's Friend exclusive version from late `90s.

[kelly user]

my kelly 10d did that same crap, the whole arm and bushing came off but when ever the bushing wanted to come off with the arm, i'd torque the arm down a little bit, then the arm popped right off. jt500 was totaly crap in my book

[Carbuff]

You should be able to replace the whole deal with the schaller type collar and trem bar like the one that you pictured. It wont press in snug to the plate but once you tighten the allen head screw on the bottom it will stay put. you can find it here.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailpieces/Floyd_Rose_tremolos_and_parts/1/Tremolo_Arm_for_Floyd_Rose_Locking_Tremolo/Pictures.html#details

Or you could just look for a cheap replacement trem on ebay or somewhere.

[Special-K]

Nice guitar

[The Magic Hoof]

Kelly K-10 Pro = Musician's Friend exclusive version from late `90s.

Very, very interesting. As I've mentioned, I believe my old pal bought it from a retail store so I'm not sure how he ended up with a Musician's Friend exclusive guitar. I'm almost positive he bought it from some local shop, but who knows. I'll speak with him soon and see.

As far as the serial number, can anyone tell anything about it? It's noted in the first post.

I'll have to look around for the correct tremolo arm on Ebay or some other website.


Thanks a lot for your help everyone!

[Sunbane]

It is not a japanese serial - too long for that. It could be made in India, although I'm actually not sure when manufacture started there.

[The Magic Hoof]

So does anyone have any info about the serial, where it was made, etc? 98110298

[Sunbane]

Been thinking a bit about this.

Indian serials are 8 digits long...which yours is. But the earliest ones I've seen started with "99" - those were made somewhere around 1999/2000. If yours is an Indian made one, and that is the original serial#, then it may be the earliest one to be posted on this forum to date(?).

Another possiblity, is that it's a Guitar Center/Musician's Friend serial. They have been known to put their own serials on their limited runs. I don't know what format (number length, etc) they've used though, so I could be ways off in that assumption. If it is a GC/MF limited run, then there's no sure-fire way of telling what model it is and where it was made.

The thing you can do, is take the neck off the guitar and check for stamp markings in the neck pocket and on the neck heel. If the guitar was made in Japan, there should be markings there, with model name and date.

[RacerX]

So does anyone have any info about the serial, where it was made, etc? 98110298

We already answered this?



Check post #13