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~Paint defect in the headstock of my San Dimas~ w/HQ pix

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  • #31
    Oh, and before you take it anywhere, if that's the guitar with the swapped out tuners, put the originals back on....
    Popular is not the same as good
    Rare is not the same as valuable
    Worth is what someone will pay, not what you want to get

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    • #32
      Oh Yeah neilli. . .good point.Will do!
      Henrik Danhage Sig Heavy Relic

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      • #33
        Originally posted by S-man View Post
        Is it me?...or is it getting harder and harder to find good guitars, free of "defects", regardless of the manufacturer?

        Good luck gettin things straighten out.
        Well, I remember the bad old days in the late 70's early 80's where you couldnt get a good guitar unless you paid for a top of the line model. Good solid guitars for middle of the road prices were non-existant.

        Today I can buy a $400 guitar and get something that blows anything comparable from the early 80's completely away.

        As a matter of fact it seems to be backwards today. I love Gibsons but I went through 4 LP Standards before having to buy a Historic R7 to get one that didnt have a shit fretboard job and other issues. Epiphone equivelents while made with not the best materials are far better made with regards to finish.

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        • #34
          The clear on some of the old pointies did the same thing. My 83 looks like that. They just skipped twenty years worth of aging so you can have that vintage look.

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          • #35
            Originally posted by mudkicker View Post
            The clear on some of the old pointies did the same thing. My 83 looks like that. They just skipped twenty years worth of aging so you can have that vintage look.
            Ah, shitty prep work is now vintage correct.

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            • #36
              Wonderful, high dollar USA guitars with crappy workmanship not acceptable on $99 Chinese POS's. Send it back.

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              • #37
                i dont know how you feel about your guitars me personally i like being the only one to tech anything on them.just skimmed posts real quick.it looks like maybe the base got lifted from the application of the logo process.if you have warranty & all the good stuff but dont want to hassle send off possibly check your local paint & body shops find comfortable painter to back tape & dust some color on the area reclear headstock find someone your comfy with to do good work the picture shows enough room to preform repair send bill in paint & body 12 years i think it would work & leave logo original no damage
                crashtestdummie21

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                • #38
                  only been on the board for a few days and have not found much to inspire me to go forward on a new purchase.
                  and i would definitely get that fixed even if it is a hassle. a little ding or blemish that isn't too noticeable is one thing, but you're going to look at that everytime you see the guitar.

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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by mudkicker View Post
                    The clear on some of the old pointies did the same thing. My 83 looks like that. They just skipped twenty years worth of aging so you can have that vintage look.
                    My 83 also had the same thing happen after 15 years. On an old guitar it adds character. On a new one, ... I'd be bummed.

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                    • #40
                      On a different topic of QC issues. We got in a Copper head a while back. And the volume pot doesnt shut off. I know its a simple fix. Probably a cold solder joint or it just isnt making contact with the chassis of thepot. But still its a 1600 dollar guitar. Sheesh.

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                      • #41
                        Originally posted by sully View Post
                        so mike, they mix the HOK interclear with the WLS clear? while i know that many times you can mix and match brands, they explicitly say on the HOK site to not mix and match. granted, some of that can be coming from the angle of wanting to sell more of their own products, but it seems like they're not messing around in this case.
                        From the sound of Mike's post, the top coat and base coat of clear are different products, and the slow curing base coat does not work well with the faster curing top coat.
                        The 2nd Amendment: America's Original Homeland Defense.

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                        • #42
                          Originally posted by Brownsound View Post
                          As a matter of fact it seems to be backwards today. I love Gibsons but I went through 4 LP Standards before having to buy a Historic R7 to get one that didnt have a shit fretboard job and other issues. Epiphone equivelents while made with not the best materials are far better made with regards to finish.
                          The top of the line custom pieces from most builders are still great guitars today but I don't find the middle and higher end of the regular production ranges from any of the big builders to be particularly inspiring. Oddly there're a ton of well-appointed and fairly high quality guitars among the import lines though.
                          Catapultam habeo. Nisi pecuniam omnem mihi dabis, ad caput tuum saxum immane mittam!

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                          • #43
                            Originally posted by xenophobe View Post
                            From the sound of Mike's post, the top coat and base coat of clear are different products, and the slow curing base coat does not work well with the faster curing top coat.
                            it's a little different; SG100 is an intermediate clear (also called "interclear") that's used often with graphics to protect one layer from the next. say if you're doing a graphic and you get the background nice. you shoot a coat of interclear over it to protect it in case you mess up your next layer. this way you don't have to start from scratch.

                            in looking at the HOK site, it specifically states:

                            INTERCOAT CLEAR (SG100)
                            A protective clear for artwork tape outs on SHIMRIN®Base Coats. May be used to blend SHIMRIN® Pearl and Metallic Base Coats, to mix Pearl and Kandy Koncentrates, and to cut the SHIMRIN‚ base for touchups and blends.
                            NOTE: Use only when top coating with urethane enamel

                            i think not using the recommended topcoat could cause some hassle.

                            sully
                            Sully Guitars - Built by Rock & Roll
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                            • #44
                              sully: Good post, I didnt realize about the different products they use.So why arent a bunch of others (or Jacksons) doing it? Ive read some here and there have them,you would think there would be more.

                              sully: Tell me more about the paint they use. House of Kolor right? SHIMRIN?
                              I have "Black Cherry" is it a Kandy? Its polyester right? Are custom colors (Black Cherry) like mine expensive paint? Cause its def got the flip-flop thing going on. Looks black,red,maroon,purple etc depending on the light and angle.
                              Henrik Danhage Sig Heavy Relic

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                              • #45
                                afaik, jackson uses PPG urethane (automotive) paints for their solid colors.

                                i'd have to see the black cherry in person in order to know if it was a candy color or not. my guess is no, and that it's a standard metallic base coat that may have some pearl shot over it (which gives you the color changes), then cleared.

                                candy (or as hok calls it, "kandy") is just clear with a tint in it. normally, you'd spray the body with a metallic silver basecoat, then candy coat over it to your desired result. it winds up looking very vivid; kinda like an old schwinn bike. have you ever seen the metal flake paint jobs that GMP does, with the sparkle flames? that's silver metallic flake as a basecoat with different color candys shot over it to get the desired result. you can also use candy colors for trans finishes. (i've been told that their basic trans finishes are candy, instead of dyeing the wood). candy makes a really nice trans finish; i did a blue quilt firebird in blue candy and it's held up very nicely.

                                anyway, to get back to your question, i don't know if your finish is particularly expensive or not; my guess is that since it's not a custom order, no. that's not to say it's any less cool.

                                ...did that answer your question at all? sorry, i'm kinda scattered today.

                                sully
                                Sully Guitars - Built by Rock & Roll
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