rr24

[bobcachelot-]

i want to build all... i verify and i can confirm that neck dont affect the body
the 2 additional fret are in the bridge direction. yes i want to put a floyd.

[Sunbane]

I've seen the 24 fret before, but can't find a handy pic... As I recall, and it may be wrong... that the body/neck meets at the same fret on both the 22 and 24 fret models... This means the distance to the nut is the same given they have the same scale length, and the bridge would therefore be located in the same spot as well.

Yeah, I looked around a bit and I now believe you are correct. It's particularly evident when looking at the KBRR and the RR24, that the necks meet the body at the same fret, causing the RR24 fretboard to sit a little further into the body.

I mentioned it simply because if you push the neck out farther so the 24fret was located in the same body position as the 22 fret model, access would be improved, but the bridge would need to be moved forward.

Exactly. I thought they were doing this, as I've noticed in a comparison between a KVX10 and a KV-3, that the bridge sits further forward on the KVX10 (24 fret) than the KV-3 (22 fret).

Regarding the posts about bolt on neck variants.... I have serious doubts about getting a 24fret bolt on neck to work properly on an off the shelf body. The body would be designed for a 22 fret neck.

Your concerns are valid. It would be virtually impossible to get the guitar to intonate with a 24 fret neck, on a body that was built for a 22 fretter.

[RacerX]

Your concerns are valid. It would be virtually impossible to get the guitar to intonate with a 24 fret neck, on a body that was built for a 22 fretter.

I wouldn't use that phrase...I've seen it done, just it's not that easy...might as well get the correct neck and do it right.

[Sunbane]

I wouldn't use that phrase...I've seen it done, just it's not that easy...might as well get the correct neck and do it right.

Me too. I should have added "...without routing out the neck pocket."

[bobcachelot-]

ok thx ... ,i will put the fretboard a little bit further and i will advance the bridge too. on this way i will have a better access to the last fret. it is a good idea or?

[Postal]

Up to you.... Access would be improved but..... How different will it look with the bridge moved forward on the bodu...

Add something far more serious- Balance.... The neck would be a bit longer, and the bridge weight would be more forward on the body.. Probably not a big deal, but it's possible that it can create a neck heavy condition.

[bobcachelot-]

ok ok yeah... anyone have a idea to have a better cutaway??

[bobcachelot-]

anyone have the template of the neck and the head stock... i don't really know how found the lenght between the fret and the lenght of the fret... ex how mm it have between fret 1 and 2
ex how mm is the fret #4...etc
i think it have a mathematic rules to find it

[Sunbane]

You need to get yourself some books on luthiery. You can try to find articles on the web also, but if I was in your position, I'd purchase a Dan Erlewine book or something.

Btw...are you aware that if you build a guitar yourself, you will probably end up spending just as much as if you bought it outright.

[Robert Burns]

Keep in mind the neck pocket specs, this is very important. You can purchase necks with either the narrower 2 1/4 (above) and the wider 2 3/16. Just incase you have a neck already be aware these details.
Do you plan ona recessed Floyd? or regular? Cause that will effect the neck/angle and height.

*****
I never was much good at book learnin'... but the Wider neck is
2 1/4" ! 2 3/16'' is thinner... :ROTF: (im gonna pay for this reply
arent i ? )

[Postal]

Buy a preslotted fretboard from LMII.com or stewmac.com. You dont have to worry about getting the slots in the right spot that way.

Or you can buy a full neck from warmoth or ebay, and build the body to fit the neck. I dunno how common 24 fret bolt on necks with jackson headstock are though....

Given the question that started the topic, I had assumed that you were familiar with guitar construction. It appears I may have been wrong.

Order "build your own electric guitar" by Melvyn Hisckock. It is very thorough. Also go to "project guitar" and "MIMF.com" Especially mimf.... sign up as a registered user- (free) and you will have access to the library. Spend several weeks in the library- literally.... and read the mini faq too.

Erlewine books are for setup and repair, but dont cover construction. Everyone recommends the Hiscock book though.

Read the book, and the library, and when you still have questions, ask on project guitar or mimf forum. People on those forums are REALLY tired of answering the same questions that would have been answered if you read the book.

Sunbane is right. It is HIGHLY unlikely that will save money building your own versus buying one. Depends on the materials you use, hardware and electronics, but also your time. How many tools will you need to purchase as well. Are your woodworking skills *really* good? How about paint? and on... and on.... You could have an expensive peice of junk. You *may* end up saving money if you really know what you're doing, have the skill and patience to do things right, but then again, it may be like the birdhouse some kid in jr high built for his mom.... the birdhouse she put in the "backyard" so none of the neighbors would see it! Only you know your skills and abilities.

[bobcachelot-]

thx for the book ... but just a little problem i forgot... i'm not english, im just okay to write on a forum... do you know if it have good book in french too

[blackendvampire]

I find the 24th fret on my Rhoads not too hard to get, and its a stock RR24, not even limited edition. I can do the 12 17 20 24 accending decending legato run without too much trouble, but not standing up usually unless I put guitar on a leg or somthing or have strap really high. I'd personally just buy it, its an amazing guitar, Im thinking of getting another soon. Collect them all.