Pointy headstocks and staying in tune

[roodyrocker]

My Jackson string thru's stay in tune just fine, no problems and thats even when I gig with one. Also, as others stated, I got a project Chavel model series guitar off E-Bay and it is a non locking model. I installed an Original Floyd Rose trem and Sperzel locking tuners, no locking nut, and it stays in tune as well. In fact I just picked up a D-Thing for it from Sperzel while out at NAMM and will be able to easily flip it to drop D tuning now

[Brooke]

Pointy head stays in tune fine.. I've had KV Pro, KV1, and KE1T. No issues.

I'd say the tuners are more of a factor..

[mudkicker]

I have a Model 1C. If you dive bomb the trem at all the high e will not stay in tune. due to th angle of the string through the nut it will pich and not come back in tune. Roller nuts, graphite, and such helps but tuning is still an issue.

Best advice if you get a v-trem pointy, don't use the trem and you'll have no tuning problems.

[skorb]

locking tuners and consistently lubing the nut slots (sounds bad LOL) will generally fix just about any tuning stability problem.

[Matt_B]

I have a Model 1C. If you dive bomb the trem at all the high e will not stay in tune. due to th angle of the string through the nut it will pich and not come back in tune. Roller nuts, graphite, and such helps but tuning is still an issue.

Best advice if you get a v-trem pointy, don't use the trem and you'll have no tuning problems.

In my initial post, I specifically stated that I would not be using the v-trem. I may be crazy but I'm not that crazy.

The only reason I would get a v-trem would be because I didn't want to have a body custom made with a hard tail. As far as I'm concerned, the guitar either has a locking trem or it doesn't have a trem at all. A v-trem guitars gets 5 springs or a few blocks of wood to lock the bridge down.

[Matt_B]

Pointy head stays in tune fine.. I've had KV Pro, KV1, and KE1T. No issues.

I'd say the tuners are more of a factor..

See, I would say if the guitar has plain 'ol Gotoh tuners, the tuners are not an issue. To me, the workmanship of the nut slots is far more important for tuning stability regardless of the type of headstock.

[pro-fusion]

It's definitely all about stopping string binding at the nut. My pointy non-locking J/Cs over the years haven't been any worse about tuning than your average Gibson. And most have been better. Unless the slots are cut *perfectly*, the G string is always going to bind a little bit. Use some kind of lube in the slots and you'll be fine. I do that on all my non-locking guitars.

[vondran]

In my initial post, I specifically stated that I would not be using the v-trem. I may be crazy but I'm not that crazy.

The only reason I would get a v-trem would be because I didn't want to have a body custom made with a hard tail. As far as I'm concerned, the guitar either has a locking trem or it doesn't have a trem at all. A v-trem guitars gets 5 springs or a few blocks of wood to lock the bridge down.

Then you shouldn't experience any tuning problems. I have many pointies and have no problems at all. As has been said, correct setup of the nut is critical for good tuning - and that is for any headstock shape.

P.S. It's not crazy, but if you are willing to spend a little extra focus to details when stringing up the guitar, you actually can use the v-trem and stay in tune. One of my pointies I use the v-trem all the time. Randy did as well, so there is proof.

[Matt_B]

As has been said, correct setup of the nut is critical for good tuning - and that is for any headstock shape.

But of course. It's just easier to work with a straight pull headstock like a Fender o,r even more so, an Ibanez.

P.S. It's not crazy, but if you are willing to spend a little extra focus to details when stringing up the guitar, you actually can use the v-trem and stay in tune. One of my pointies I use the v-trem all the time. Randy did as well, so there is proof.

I hear ya but I have (2) guitars with OFRs already. That's a lot of trem for me.