BC Rich Rave Warlock Project

[VoiceX3]

I thought this thread was gone forever since the board crash and just noticed that it is back while searching for some info. So I'll give a condensed update.

I had the guitar all together but not wired up yet and then strung it up. I made a huge mistake when setting the neck as I did not take into account just how high the strings would sit even at their lowest saddle adjustment with the Kahler because it was originally a hard tail fulcrum trem then was a recessed Floyd. After freaking out a bit I decided to just buy a regular hard tail bridge and put it on last week and the action is perfect! The biggest issue now is the fill where the Floyd was is disgustingly ugly. So I decided I was going to paint it a solid color, but that's not what I really wanted. Then I was sitting in front of the TV doing even more contour for the neck joint I was watching Velocity and Ish from West Coast Customs was putting a ash veneer on a dashboard and it looked pretty easy so I decided to start looking for some sort of figured veneer. I found a really nice pair of Tiger Maple that are the perfect size to cut down for the face of the Warlock. It is out for delivery and will be at my house when I get home. Thinking of going Trans Green or Trans blue on it. I'll put up pics this weekend!

[toejam]

Cool. I really can't wait to see what this looks like when done!

[VoiceX3]

I did a little work on it this morning. Made a template and cut the veneers to shape, now the bottom side is clamped and the glue is setting. I'll do the other side tonight before bed. But as promised here's a couple pics.......

Matched Striped tiger maple veneer

Template outlined and pickup holes trimmed out.

Both sides cut out and matched.

Checked for size and cut.

......To Be Continued.......

[sixx_ gunner]

That is shaping up to a good looking axe. Great job! Looking forward to the completed pics!

[Hayabusa hooligan]

Very cool I have a Rave that is in pieces bought it with a cracked neck had that fixed then I moved and haven't touched it in a year this just might motivate me to get back at it.
thanks

[VoiceX3]

Don't see to many survivor Raves out there. Lots of Rave II, but not too many Rave originals. They were cool cheap players.

[straycat]

Looks like you are having fun with so keep at it.
The "real wood" comment made me laugh because it is made of real wood what was that guy thinking?
I have made plenty of plywood bodied guitars sound fantastic so no plywood hater here.

[VoiceX3]

Green Burst. Still needs another blend before clear. Not bad for a first try.


Once the face is cleared I'll tape off and respray all the white since I need to paint the neck joint too.
Then probably a couple coats of clear over the whole thing.....getting there.

[VoiceX3]

After blend before clear mock up build to see if I like it.

Opened up only 3 control holes. 1 empty hole for 3 way toggle (gotta pick one up), 1 Volume Knob, 1 Mini Toggle Kill Switch.


I created the truss rod cover out of 5 layers of flamed maple veneer glued together and stained green. Needs to be sanded/faded then cleared.

....then on to finishing the neck joint and respraying the white.

Getting there......

[Drake S.]

where did you order the Vaneer from that you found it so thin?

[WRC]

Tell us more about the neck joint, I ASSume you have now glued it up being in the earlier pics you shaved the bolt on area all but away, unless you countersunk them up with that type of hardware..
Looking Good!!
Gary/WRC

[VoiceX3]

where did you order the Vaneer from that you found it so thin?

I got it from a guy on EBay that sells all kinds of thin wood figured veneers. It was right about $20 with shipping. He sends it between 2 thick pieces of cardboard with 3 other thin pieces of half decent veneers one on each side and one between the two that I ordered. I'm going to use those along with one piece of the tiger flame I have left to build a new control cavity cover like the truss rod cover I made. EBay is blocked here at work so I'll try to remember to check the seller when I get home. He has a lot of choices in his store.

Tell us more about the neck joint, I ASSume you have now glued it up being in the earlier pics you shaved the bolt on area all but away, unless you countersunk them up with that type of hardware..
Looking Good!!
Gary/WRC

First I cleaned out the joint and back of the neck at the joint of any paint then I glued it with Titebond II and fastened it together using the original neck bolts and plate. I let it set for a few days then removed the bolts and plate. I then took a measurement of exactly how deep the bolts went and used 1/4 inch drill bit to open the holes to the right width and depth needed. I drilled out the top 2 bolt holes added a hole to the center of the 4 original, cris crossed 2 from either side on an angle then very carefully drilled out the bottom 2 bolt holes all the way thru the front of the neck/fretboard to get perfect placement of the 2 outside 24th fret markers, flipped it over and drilled straight thru the center between the 2 at the 24th to make 3. I then got a 2 ft piece of 1/4 inch poplar dowel and cut all the lengths I needed for all the holes and left the ones for the 24th about 1/8th of an inch longer than needed. I put a little Titebond in each hole then coated each dowel with a generous coating as well. After each dowel was tapped in with a rubber mallet I used the original neck plate on the back and a small 2x4 on the fretboard side and clamped it together and left it for the weekend. When I unclamped it I cleaned up the excess glue and went to the front with a sanding bit in the Dremel and made the 24th fret markers flush with the fretboard. In order not to cut away too far at the neck joint I added a 1" piece of poplar to the top of the joint for later cut down. After the piece set, I started power sanding with some heavy grade sandpaper, but wasn't cutting enough away so I almost gave up and threw a coat of white on it. It really wasn't what I wanted so I overcame my fear of completely trashing it and threw caution to the wind and broke out the Mulit-Max cutting tool and carved A LOT of wood away from the back of the joint. It's pretty fantastic, but not quite there yet, thus why I haven't posted updated pics of it. I will add those tonight and you can all tell me what you think so far.......

[VoiceX3]

A little more to go, but it certainly is no bolt-on.

[VoiceX3]

where did you order the Vaneer from that you found it so thin?

The guy is on Ebay, his store is called Thin Woods and Old Tools.....he's got lots of different veneers, there's other guys who sell thicker stock too.

[toejam]

Well, that's coming along nicely.