Gibson Explorer Questions

[T@rgetDrone]

I need another guit like I need another whole in my head. BUT, I have opportunity to snag a 1997 Gibby Explorer for $600 shipped. Black w/OHSC. It has a few dings and scuffs. Nothing major. It is also all original. I think it's probably a very good deal but am not an expert on Gibbys. I have played quite a few and currently own a Faded V which I like a lot.

Opinions on the '97 era Gibbys (quality) anyone?

[asix]

ive got a 97 and the quality is ok. not as good as my charvel or ibanez but its ok. sounds amazing and playes ok. $600 seems cheap, pull that trigger.

[DonP]

Can't comment on an Explorer. I'm the type that prefers binding and inlays, and most explorers are dots on an unbound neck.

Tha said, I have a 1998 SG that I bought brand new in Nov 1998 after it sat in GC for less than 10 days that I really love.

Some things to look for:

If it has an ABR-1 bridge (like my SG) that's considered good (better tone) than the Nashville.

I'm guessing the pickups are the 496R/500T. I have a Les Paul Classic with these and think they are great, but if they are too heavy for you, I think I like the 490R/498T in my SG better (the SG is closer in build to the Explorer). The 490R might be considered muddy by some (I like it for playing Sweet Leaf), but for me, the 498T rocks.

The paint is nitro and the wood is mahogany. Price seems good. It's a Gibson and should hold value. What more would you ask for?

Get it and go play some Scorpions or something

[SEEGERMANY]

I've had three Explorers, currently I just own one. Loved them all. $600 is not a bad price if the condition is good.

[Grandturk]

If it has an ABR-1 bridge (like my SG) that's considered good (better tone) than the Nashville.

That's bunk - tone snobs on the Les Paul Forum insist this is the case. I've done the research and swapped them on my Les Paul - IMO, no difference in tone that I can hear.

It does look different, is vintage correct and comes in nickel so it tarnishes - those are good aspects to me.

[Axewielder]

The last Explorer I picked up was a new one at the GC, and I was bummed at how sticky the back of the neck felt.

[T@rgetDrone]

Get it and go play some Scorpions or something

Was thinking the same thing. "Blackout" instantly came to mind.

I have the 490R/500T combo in my Faded V. The 500T overwhelms the mix when recording. I have to lower the sliders way down. But OH THAT SOUND! I can usually get the 490R to clean up w/vol and tone adjustments. Not like an Evo but it works just fine.

Thanks for ALL of the input. I am going to pull the trigger very soon. I suppose I need to move out a MIA Strat to make room while I wait for the Gibby to arrive. Translated: To potentially fend off a divorce lawyer! OTOH, maybe I'll risk the wrath and just keep them all. :think:

[DonP]

That's bunk - tone snobs on the Les Paul Forum insist this is the case. I've done the research and swapped them on my Les Paul - IMO, no difference in tone that I can hear.

It does look different, is vintage correct and comes in nickel so it tarnishes - those are good aspects to me.

You are probably right about the tone. I'm not one of the tone snobs, just one of the fools that listens to the tone snobs

I've swapped the Nashville on my 2002 LP Std. for an ABR-1, and now I sleep better at night

But there is another reason for the ABR-1 being better - you can lower your tailpiece further without hitting the back of the bridge - if this is a concern. I still can't lower my tailpiece all the way because the bridge is too high.

And I'm not going to topwrap.

[DonP]

The last Explorer I picked up was a new one at the GC, and I was bummed at how sticky the back of the neck felt.

There's fixes for that if you search for them.

I'm pretty sure a 1997 axe should have the nitro nice and dry.

[SEEGERMANY]

That's bunk - tone snobs on the Les Paul Forum insist this is the case. I've done the research and swapped them on my Les Paul - IMO, no difference in tone that I can hear.

Same here. Even though the Nashville bridge is supposed to be better, I found that it was no better and no worse than the ABR. You might hear a slight difference when unplugged, but the minute you plug in, they both sound the same. The same thing applies to stop bars, chrome versus nickle versus aluminum. If you hear a difference, you ain't playing loud enough!

[Axewielder]

There's fixes for that if you search for them.

I'm pretty sure a 1997 axe should have the nitro nice and dry.

Sanding and playing with dirty hands are the only things I've heard of. Meh.

[MetalHeadMat]

Buy it, and if you don't like it sell it to someone else $700 sans shipping

[lhrocker]

Buy it, and if you don't like it sell it to someone else $700 sans shipping

Double ditto!!! I think the pickups in 97 were 490R/498T.

[DonP]

The same thing applies to stop bars, chrome versus nickle versus aluminum.

That's Zinc vs. Aluminum you heathen

(spoken like the tone snob that I am)

Maybe this shit works for those who play blues on there LP's with just the slightest distortion. I'll never know, because if it ain't heavy metal, I ain't listening to it. That's probably why I don't hang out at the LPF that much; I'm too much of a metal head and that blues shit bores me to tears. Sorry Led Zeppelin fans, Page bores me most of the time too. I'll take Tony Iommi any day of the week over him.

[toejam]

But there is another reason for the ABR-1 being better - you can lower your tailpiece further without hitting the back of the bridge - if this is a concern. I still can't lower my tailpiece all the way because the bridge is too high.

And I'm not going to topwrap.

I like the Nashville bridge, never tried the ABR-1, though. I couldn't have the tailpiece all the way down on my faded Studio either, and I've never tried the topwrap method and don't really want to, but a TP6 fine-tuning tailpiece solved my problem.