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Only get the 3 oz size - enough for more than a couple necks - also use gloves when you apply it - it sticks to your fingers something crazy!
Funny that its sticky cuz its supposed to make slick necks.. right??
Thanks for the info!
So, do I use like .00 steel wool to remove the finish and then rub on the gun oil??
the pic sux, it looks cool in reality.
great guitars!!
and I really like the option of a singlecoil in neck position. my favourite PU-layout...
Kewl! Yeah, I love that layout too! My First charvel was a 3DR, which I had to sell when I got married. So not only am I getting my first neck thru Charvel, Im getting that pup layout again.. Im not a good enough lead player (more of a blues rocker) to get on with just a bridge bucker, so this gives me options, but still looks clean..
Funny that its sticky cuz its supposed to make slick necks.. right??
Thanks for the info!
So, do I use like .00 steel wool to remove the finish and then rub on the gun oil??
I usually don't stain them first, and I usually only use 2-3 coats max...that will give you the newer San Dimas-look...these instructions are more for a "classic" aged Fender Strat look...
Make sure that the neck is bare wood, as it won't work over poly/lacquer...just steel wooling a poly neck might give you the feel you're looking for, if that's what you have now, and if you want to go back to glossy, just use some rubbing compound and 3M finishing product to bring it back to slick again...
exactly!!
I use the neck PU on my two hum guitars almoust for cleans only, and that's when single coils are the better choice anyway.
there should be more HS guitars in the jackson programm IMO.
Steel wool won't make a dent in a poly finished neck. It's going to take some serious sanding or scraping with a blade to get down to the wood.
Sanding Poly off a guitar takes forever. That is some tough shit. I know... I did it on the 5A. I did use a chemical paint stripper to start it, but the stuff I bought wasn't that good.
You need a cabinet scrapper to get it started.
You also have to be careful not to be to aggressive or you will start changing the shape of the body by accident. No power sanders either!
I have since started using Kleen-Strip Aircraft paint remover... works like a charm.
Nasty stuff to work with, but you can strip a guitar pretty quickly with it.
Key things to remember when using this stuff.... GLOVES, GOOD VENTILATION and a MASK.
The end result is worth it though.
You only need some light sanding to remove any leftover base coat.
The 5FX is a Model 5A with an added single, slanted, in the neck position.
Yes they are rare, only made for one year. I don't have any numbers on them though.
The odd thing is that the 5A is actually the rarer of the two. They were all shipped over to the U.S. distributor as 5A's, and then the slanted single-coil was added stateside. Apparently, more of them were modified to the 5fx config than were sent out to retailers as 5A's.
I briefly had a 5fx, which was pretty nice, though it needed a better trem. I'm not a fan of the JT-6.
Any reason you dont like it?? I like the top blocks more than the little blocks on an OFR..
Is an OFR a direct fit with the posts already there? Or is it a diff spacing?? If the guitar is a good as I hope, Id consider going with an OFR so I can use a one of the floyd upgrade weights. Make it a sustain monster...
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