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Scored a Model 6 today, need some advice

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  • Scored a Model 6 today, need some advice

    I couldn't resist and now I'm the happy owner of a Model 6 from '88 (judging on the serial number starting with c8..). Here is the catch: it used to be white. The previous owner had it painted over and added a tribal logo. Before all purists and cork sniffers are gonna scream "blasphemy", I am considering to restore it back to original colors or at least close to it.

    The tribal isn't done bad at all. However, there are some smudges on the fretboard close to the edge (see last photo's). Can these be removed or am I screwed? Please take a look at the photo's and let me know what you would do.

    Edit: working on the smudges right now. The tribal logo is fluorescent, it changes color depending on the way you look at it.





    Last edited by laurens; 01-17-2010, 04:27 PM.

  • #2
    The body doesn't look too bad in the pics. That fingerboard though...ouch!
    _________________________________________________
    "Artists should be free to spend their days mastering their craft so that working people can toil away in a more beautiful world."
    - Ken M

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    • #3
      ya, overspray. You should be able to clean that up. I like the heavy duty tri-toggle and the tribal does not look badly done at all. If anything, you could always just remove the paint/finish from the neck if you decide to keep the graphic.

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      • #4
        Ok, but can the fretboard be cleaned as well?

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        • #5
          Is that paint overspray and lacquer or just paint? Rosewood is porous so, I'm not sure if you get all of it. You should be able to take some of it off with some type of thinner. I'm not a luthier and there are others on here who have far greater skill in the refin area than myself. Do a little google or searching here (as far as what's best to use) and try it on a small test area.

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          • #6
            I actually like the body graphic. I can see some sparkle mixed in.
            BUT, the biggest faux pas is the paint over the neck and headstock binding. That's why it's all over the board. Someone wanted to make sure the creme binding didn't show thru.
            "Your work is ingenius…it’s quality work….and there are simply too many notes…that’s all, just cut a few, and it’ll be perfect."

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            • #7
              Originally posted by MetalMedal II View Post
              I actually like the body graphic. I can see some sparkle mixed in.
              BUT, the biggest faux pas is the paint over the neck and headstock binding. That's why it's all over the board. Someone wanted to make sure the creme binding didn't show thru.
              Yeah, that tribal thing is done well. I'm thinking about restoring the creme binding (the stripe would also run around the headstock then, just like a regular black version). Does a luthier have the tools and resources to do this?

              Nevertheless, a damn fine guitar.

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              • #8
                Thing with the fretboard is you can dye it as well if the paint cannot be lifted satisfactorily. Letsee, I used acetone to remove paint.

                Here you can find many answers in this resource.http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/tutorial5.htm

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by charvelguy View Post
                  Thing with the fretboard is you can dye it as well if the paint cannot be lifted satisfactorily. Letsee, I used acetone to remove paint.

                  Here you can find many answers in this resource.http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/tutorial5.htm
                  Thanks for all the input. Really appreciate that.

                  And good news! I'm able to scrap it off, big parts of it anyway. Let's see how far I get in cleaning up this beauty.

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                  • #10
                    You are prolly going to end up with a bit of a ragged transition at the edge of the binding. Jackson finishes on neck-thrus are really a marvel.

                    EDIT: I meant to add, I had a King V refinned a long time ago by a local guy who knew how to paint vans but not guitars. The outcome was the same: the body was decent, but the transition to the binding on the neck was a total wreck! That's one of the trickier things to get right on these.
                    Last edited by Axewielder; 01-17-2010, 05:07 PM.
                    _________________________________________________
                    "Artists should be free to spend their days mastering their craft so that working people can toil away in a more beautiful world."
                    - Ken M

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I kinda like that graphic, A single blade razor used properly[that is the key word] will remove the bulk of that paint and leave a clean edge
                      Nice axe, good luck and keep us posted

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                      • #12
                        Just tape off the edge at the lower edge of the binding and use a single edged razor blade and start scraping.Worry about the finger board last and scrape it off.Keep the blade straight up 90 degrees and scrape don't try to cut.
                        Nice looking graphic from the pics.
                        Last edited by straycat; 01-17-2010, 08:39 PM.
                        Really? well screw Mark Twain.

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                        • #13
                          Do NOT use acetone anywhere near the binding!

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Sunbane View Post
                            Do NOT use acetone anywhere near the binding!
                            It's a wonder that you guys with imperative information show up so late
                            As far as I'm concerned he can stay with Dean and play his dots+fins KV copies, and whatever that aborted fetus he "designed". More like "I saw it in my puke". -Newc

                            Tung Oil is for guitar necks. Tongue Oil is a by-product of cunninglus. -Metalchurch79

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