Level of Charvels?

[rdamaral]

How would you rate the older model Charvels? I'm about to buy, but there are quite a few choices out there. I had my mind set on a model 6, but now I am getting lost in a sea of Charvel goodness, lol.

How are the models rated by quality, etc?

Basically I am asking about:

Model 4
Model 5
Model 6
Fusion
475
550
650
750

Is that how they would work out as far as worth, quality, etc?

[DonP]

Most likely highest number to lowest number. I think that's what they had in mind when they came up with the naming convention.

[rdamaral]

yeah, but is a fusion better than a model 4? Is a 475 better than a fusion? ohhh my head...

[Grandturk]

They're all completely different guitars you have listed out there - you've got Model Series, and Toothpasties and bolt-ons and neck-thrus and short scales all mixed in there.

[Musician78]

I have a 375 Deluxe from the early 90's and that thing is unbelievable. It plays better than any Japanese Jackson I have ever had. The trem sucks though.

[Grandturk]

Made from 86-88 -
Model 4 - Strat body, bolt on, Kahler or Lic Jacko Floyd - 86-88
Model 5 - Soloist - neck through - 24 frets - 1 hum, 2 hum, 1 hum 1 SC variants, Kahler or Lic Jacko Floyd
Model 6 - Solist - neck through - 24 frets - HSS - Kahler or Lic Jacko Floyd

In practice, I will always choose a Model Series Charvel over a Toothepastey -
- Strat body vs. Dinky Body
- Logo style
- Non-recessed Floyd
But they have lots of wonky features like mini-switches on the 4 & 6, really crappy Kahler Fulcrum trem on the 2 & 3 in 86 and of course, the behind-the-nut string lock - which although functional, sucks balls (IMO).

89 + Toothepaste Logo
Fusion - there's a bunch of these - all of them have short, Gibson scales (24.75") - you may like it, I do not - all of them bolt on and dinky
475 - replaced the Model 4 - dinky, bolt on, HSS, recessed Floyd, mini switches replaced by blade switch
550 - Replaced the Model 5 - dunno much here...
650 - Replaced the Model 6 - changes like the 475 above
750 - Short scale, arched top, set neck, floyd and stop tail available - beloved by some

I flat out am prejudiced against Toothepaste logo Charvels and would never, never, never, ever buy one. YMMV

[tcwil8]

I think the question is ...what are your preferences? As Grandturk states above, there are many differences

Recessed or non-recessed trem
Schaeller Trem or Jackson copy
Real locking nut or behind the nut lock
Strat or dinky body
Bolt on or neck through
Pick up combination - H, SSH, HH, SH, etc.
Scale Length

In my experience, there are pros and cons to each of these 'rides' and it's tough to comment on a rating since it's all personal preference. As an example, I adore my 87 Model 5 and prefer it over the Model 6s I've had. My model 4 is pretty beat up but is a monster player and is preferred over my 475 crackle. I also remember picking up my 375 more often than the model 3 I had. So it seems like it is really all over the board on these.

[rdamaral]

I know it is a loaded question, and there are a million different answers. I was just trying to get some insight to what people prefer. Basically, I have it narrowed down to a Model 4, Model 6 or a Sea Foam Fusion that I like for some strange reason. But the two that I am debating on are the Model 4 and 6.

Model 4 is around $500 and the Model 6 is around $700.

[Grandturk]

Model 4 is around $500 and the Model 6 is around $700.

I bought my Model 4 in 2004 for $125, added a case and EMGs, refurbed the whole thing and sold it here for $400 - which was about what I put into it. I would not pay the prices you've quoted for either model. Keep searching. You should be able to get a Model 4 in the $350 range.

[rdamaral]

I haven't seen a decent model 4 for under $500, unless is f'ed up. And trying to find a decent model 6 is very hard it seems. One just went up on the bay for $500, missing the pots, and with f'ed up boo-boo wiring. I'm willing to pay a little bit more for a nice one.

[bombtek]

I flat out am prejudiced against Toothepaste logo Charvels and would never, never, never, ever buy one. YMMV

Not even this one? This thing is fricken badass!

[plon]

But they have lots of wonky features like mini-switches on the 4 & 6, really crappy Kahler Fulcrum trem on the 2 & 3 in 86 and of course, the behind-the-nut string lock - which although functional, sucks balls (IMO).

+1000

[Grandturk]

I haven't seen a decent model 4 for under $500

First of all, you're talking about a 25 year old beginner guitar, the chances of finding one in pristine unplayed condition is pretty low - so yes, you can expect to pay a premium for prime examples.

Second, the electronics are almost always shot and need work to bring them into playing condition. Same for the trem - Kalher or Jacko Lic Floyd - either from use or disuse.

C - as with anything - patience is key. I can't tell you how many times I've walked into Guitar Center or Sam Ash and seen Model 4's at $299 over just the past 5 years.

Again, YMMV - if you need it now and it has to be just what you're looking for RIGHT NOW!!! - expect to pay a premium. Me? I'd rather wait on a MIJ ProMod at $500 - $600 than a questionable Model 4 at the same price.

[tcwil8]

+1 to everything Grandturk states except I don't believe Model 4s could be considered "beginner guitars". I recall that these were mid-level guitars back then and had an MSRP of about $800. In 1986, this was a lot of money. As I remember, Kramer Strikers and BC Rich Platinum series were in the beginner guitar market. I would not compare Strikers and Platinum Series with a Charvel Model 4.

[Grandturk]

+1 to everything Grandturk states except I don't believe Model 4s could be considered "beginner guitars".

Maybe so! Check out the "who are you" thread in the Non-J/C Forum - lots of Charvel Model Series noted as the "first real guitar."