1987 Model 3A TrussRod Catastrophy.....

[morbidguitar]

I wrote out a long detailed post but it froze and I lost it all lol

Anways to keep it short, the exciting purchase of a new Charvel turns to disappointment.

Im new to the insides of a Charvel neck but: Just bought a 1987 (but made in 88) Charvel 3A in Metallic Blue. After purchase, while doing a setup I found the brass truss rod nut has been glued to the rod itself. I found that I can pull the rod out of the TR access hole in the headstock about 3/4 inch quite easily using a small flat screwdriver. Should that be possible? I also found that the truss rod nut (7mm style) does not turn in either direction, the rod just wants to twist, probably because the brass nut was glued to the rod. There is a gap between the brass 7mm nut, and the washer as well. What gets me is that the neck is arrow straight and I had no idea til I got the guitar home and noticed this. The truss rod is basically loose in the neck and wont turn because the nut is glued to the rod. There is no access hole or plug in the heel of the neck.
Im no expert but it looks to me like the truss rod is doing absolutly nothing but then why is the neck so straight? If I turn the nut counterclockwise isnt it just going to unthread the nut from the rod? Is this a 1 way (tighten only) kind of deal or what?

Any suggestions?


Next Question: If I buy a used replacement neck I want to match the original 100%. Luckily the serial is on the neckplate and there are absolutly no markings on the neck except a tiny green dot in the heel (as far as I could tell). For example are the 1986 Model 1, Model 2 etc necks the exact same as the Model 3 Model 4 1987 models, or the Model 5, 6's etc.......?

Been searching and found nothing online relating to those issues/questions.

Any advise would be great.

[Chief_CrazyTalk]

I can't speak to the trussrod, as I've never touched one, but I do remember these were supposedly dual-action trussrods.

I do believe all of the Model series necks from Model 1 through Model 4 are identical, fretboards notwithstanding. Model 5 and 6 are set necks. Model 1 has a traditional nut and no locking clamp. Some necks may have used Kahler or Jt6 locking clamps, but I believe all were behind the nut as your M3 probably is.

I've owned a Model 4, then a Model 1. I modded the M1 with a Schaller FR and replaced the nut with the Schaller Floyd-style locking nut. A model 1 neck could be a good option if you like maple, as I do, and want to scrap the behind-the-nut lock in favor of the better (IMO) FR style locking nut. Although the kahler and JT6 clamps never gave me any problems.

Unfortunately, over the years and through tough times I lost both of those Jap Charvels. I've bought newer Charvels and Jacksons in an attempt to find that feel and playability again and haven't succeeded, really. So when I recently found a pristine 86 Model 3, I had to buy it...and I'm glad I did. It looks almost like a new guitar aside from worn screws in the JT6 and some light scratches on the top. Changed the 10s to 9s and put an EVH frank pup in it, and it is now the best sounding and playing guitar I've ever owned. I would like to replace the JT6 with a OFR or Gotoh eventually but for now I'm not touching it. This thing is almost too good to be true.

Good luck with that neck. If it plays fine, as it should, I wouldn't worry about the trussrod. But swapping necks shouldn't be a big project.

[Axewielder]

I believe the "nut" means it is a one-way truss. The dual action truss rods have a hex adjustment like this:



There's really no logical reason to glue the nut on, could it be rusted or seized? It shouldn't pull up like that, in any event. It sounds like you are in "luthier territory" with this one.

[morbidguitar]

Ok thanks for the replies.

Im going to get a replacement neck for this guitar.

Also, the guitar has SD Blackouts in it, but I have the original pickups and wiring available too. Would it be wise to reinstall the original pickups and wiring or are they not very good? If the originals are gig-worthy high output passives, good for shredding, then Ill probably reinstall them. They're J90's or something like that. Is it normal for the '87/'88 3A model to have the exposed pickups (without Jackson labeled covers)? Im seeing pictures of this model having the covered version, are they just covers or totally different pickups?

[jspeed]

Ok thanks for the replies.

Im going to get a replacement neck for this guitar.

Also, the guitar has SD Blackouts in it, but I have the original pickups and wiring available too. Would it be wise to reinstall the original pickups and wiring or are they not very good? If the originals are gig-worthy high output passives, good for shredding, then Ill probably reinstall them. They're J90's or something like that. Is it normal for the '87/'88 3A model to have the exposed pickups (without Jackson labeled covers)? Im seeing pictures of this model having the covered version, are they just covers or totally different pickups?

The old 3A's came with dual humbuckers and they were J80's. Not as hi-output as the J90's, but had nice tone too. The cool thing about the 3A's was the original 5 way switching, offered a bunch of cool options, not found on other Charvels. Anyway, the old USA Jackson (Duncan) pickups sounded great with or without the plastic covers.

necks, for an accurate "resto" you'll be looking at Model 2 or Model 3 necks. The '86 Model 4's look close, but they have mother of pearl dots, instead of the standard white ones and they also have the "TM" on the logo; which had turned into the "R" trademark for 87-88's. Later Model 4's came with the mother of pearl "shark fin" fret markers. While the look awesome, an M4 neck on your M3A would turn the guitar into a "mutt"; which might not be a bad thing, unless you wanted to sport a more original one.

Hope it helps, good luck!

[morbidguitar]

Ok awesome info, that's the neck I will be looking for then. I want it to be as accurate as possible. Is the heel size 2 3/16 or 2 1/4? I see conflicting measurements online. Are ALL of the Model neck heels the same? Thanks for answering my questions so far guys.

Your right, I have J80 pickups. Id like to hear them but its a lot of work to wire them in just for that reason. How would they compare to an Ibanez INF, Duncan Designed in the Jackson dk2's, Seymour Duncan in the newer DK2's... etc? Or is that not a realistic question?

[jspeed]

Ok awesome info, that's the neck I will be looking for then. I want it to be as accurate as possible. Is the heel size 2 3/16 or 2 1/4? I see conflicting measurements online. Are ALL of the Model neck heels the same? Thanks for answering my questions so far guys.

Your right, I have J80 pickups. Id like to hear them but its a lot of work to wire them in just for that reason. How would they compare to an Ibanez INF, Duncan Designed in the Jackson dk2's, Seymour Duncan in the newer DK2's... etc? Or is that not a realistic question?

2 1/4"