New Charel Pro-Mod series fretboards, Oiled or not?

[d4rin]

I have a 2013 San Dimas with a Rosewood fretboard so I know that isn't oiled.

But are the new ones with a maple neck/fretboard oiled or unfinished?

[Grandturk]

Rosewood itself is typically not oiled in the same manner as an oil finished maple neck. Rosewood is left unfinished.

[d4rin]

Rosewood itself is typically not oiled in the same manner as an oil finished maple neck. Rosewood is left unfinished.

Just curious because I want to order a 1pc maple neck from Musikraft and I want the neck with a light satin finish, But not sure if I should get the fretboard treated as well.

Don't think any products are safe for an unfinished fretboard.

[Grandturk]

Just curious because I want to order a 1pc maple neck from Musikraft and I want the neck with a light satin finish, But not sure if I should get the fretboard treated as well.

Don't think any products are safe for an unfinished fretboard.

When they lacquer or hard finish a neck they never do the playing surface of rosewood or ebony. Rosewood is left raw. Now as to whether or not to oil your rosewood that's a different question. I periodically treat my rosewood boards with bore oil. This is different than the tru oil finish they use on maple necks.

[d4rin]

I once cleaned an unfinished maple fretboard with some lemon oil, Worst mistake ever. Parts of it turned dark green.

I have yet to come across a good answer on cleaning an unfinished fretboard, One luthier said "Don't use any products at all".

[Matt_B]

I just want to make sure something is clear here.

Charvel applies tung oil to their maple necks and maple fretboards. The oil is considered a finish as it seals and protects the wood. Companies like Fender typically apply a urethane finish to all maple necks and the final appearance can be glossy or matte (satin). Lacquer finishes are typically reserved for vintage spec instruments only.

Rosewood and ebony frets boards can be "conditioned" with various products (e.g. like bore oil) to darken them up and prevent them from cracking. This does not seal and protect the wood like tung oil. I've never heard of anyone using tung oil on a rosewood or ebony fretboard.

Now that that's out of the way why do you want a satin finished neck? I asked because part of the magic of Charvels (and Jacksons) is the oil finished necks. They feel broken in right out box and don't get slippery or stick like urethane finished necks, glossy or satin.

[d4rin]

I just want to make sure something is clear here.

Charvel applies tung oil to their maple necks and maple fretboards. The oil is considered a finish as it seals and protects the wood. Companies like Fender typically apply a urethane finish to all maple necks and the final appearance can be glossy or matte (satin). Lacquer finishes are typically reserved for vintage spec instruments only.

Rosewood and ebony frets boards can be "conditioned" with various products (e.g. like bore oil) to darken them up and prevent them from cracking. This does not seal and protect the wood like tung oil. I've never heard of anyone using tung oil on a rosewood or ebony fretboard.

Now that that's out of the way why do you want a satin finished neck? I asked because part of the magic of Charvels (and Jacksons) is the oil finished necks. They feel broken in right out box and don't get slippery or stick like urethane finished necks, glossy or satin.

Great info!

The reason I am asking is because when I select a finish from the dropdown menu in the link below, I see Tung Oil for the neck finish, But I don't see it for the neck+fretboard. So I am not sure that if I select Tung oil, Will the fretboard be treated with oil or not.

http://musikraft.com/product-info.php?pid173.html

[Grandturk]

Great info!

The reason I am asking is because when I select a finish from the dropdown menu in the link below, I see Tung Oil for the neck finish, But I don't see it for the neck+fretboard. So I am not sure that if I select Tung oil, Will the fretboard be treated with oil or not.

http://musikraft.com/product-info.php?pid173.html

If it's a rosewood board they will only Tung oil the back of the neck - the maple. The rosewood will be left raw. If its all maple they will Tung oil the whole thing.

[Dave1968]

I read twenty odd years back a old luthier from Spain insisted on olive oil for rosewood. I used it for years every string change and it is as good as any product I've used. Last five years or so I've used Fret Doctor with the same results. You can use on rosewood and ebony.

[d4rin]

I've used fret doctor for my rosewood boards and it really does work. It tasked out the dryness for good.

[Matt_B]

I've used fret doctor for my rosewood boards and it really does work. It tasked out the dryness for good.

Fret Doctor cost $14.95 per oz. Bore oil costs $1.50 per ounce and does exactly the same thing. Don't get caught up in the hype.

[DonP]

Too late. Besides, it lasts for years.

[darkshark]

Rosewood, by nature, doesn't really need a finish. Like many tropical hardwoods, it's moderately hard, porous and oily.

Lacquer finishes on fresh rosewood can actually be a problem because the oils in the wood prevent the lacquer from drying (this doesn't stop Rickenbacker), but applying a few coats of the oil of your choice to a rosewood fingerboard is totally fine. It's not necessary, and you probably won't feel any difference vs a nice clean fingerboard.

Lots of fingerboard cleaning products are basically just mineral oil, which adds a mild protecting coat to keep dirt out of the wood pores.

I clean my rosewood boards with Magic Eraser pads or 0000 steel wool when they're really gunky (cover your pickups to prevent bits of the steel from sticking to the magnets), then apply some mineral oil. Same for my oiled maple fingerboards. The steel wool will scratch lacquered maple boards.

I've finished a bunch of Musikraft necks, I really like them. My go-to for maple necks is the Stew-Mac wipe-on water-based stains for a little warmth, then liberal application of Tru-Oil, repeating a few times until the neck isn't soaking it up any more, let it dry for a week, polish up with steel wool, then buffing it up a bit. Dries nice and hard. It feels and plays great like that, but also looks amazing and deep with gloss nitro over it.

I've also used tung oil, teak oil, and Danish oil (which is an oil & varnish blend, iirc) with great results.

One note about oiling raw maple fingerboards - don't let the oil pool around the fret slots. tt will seep under the frets and can cause them to pop up or create loose spots that sound dead. Wipe the oil on, just don't let it totally saturate the area around frets.