NGD & pics: 1987-88 Charvel Model 1 (another cheap deal)

[Number Of The Priest]

Scored this used Charvel Model 1 (no case) nearly two weeks ago but I haven't yet done anything with it, hence why I was reluctant to post anything when I first bought it.

It was listed at CAD$295 (USD$229) and I kept my eye on it. The ad disappeared, and was relisted. When the list price dropped to CAD$195 (USD$152), I made my move. The ad disappeared again, then was relisted once more. Confusing.

When I actually met up with the seller, he seemed slightly desperate to get rid of it, and settled for CAD$180 (USD$140). He said it wasn't versatile enough for him (fair enough) but I suspect that the "issues" I visually identify below were huge turnoffs for him and made the guitar "unplayable" and made him dump the instrument for such a low price. I saw the potential and I feel like I can easily restore the guitar back to proper working order.

Slightly rusty J90C polepieces, which I hope I can clean up using some naphtha. Otherwise, it works fine, and a previous owner installed a push-push pot for coil-splitting. I had no idea push-push pots existed since I was only exposed to push-pull my whole life. Notice the saddles are cranked all the way down and the saddle screws would shred the palm of anyone trying to play the guitar.


What's this? A shim? Yes.


From this angle, you can see the shim actually serves to provide a NEGATIVE neck angle! Hence why the saddles are cranked down. Whoever shimmed the guitar in this way clearly didn't understand what he was doing. I should be able to restore neutral neck angle and reasonable saddle heights simply by getting rid of the useless shim.


The trem doesn't move. It's blocked because of these interesting chain-looking things in positions 2 and 4 in the trem cavity. Never seen those before. Anyone know what they're called or have any information about them? I will likely remove them and set this guitar up like my Model 1C where I use three springs in a \|/ pattern and crank the trem claw in order to deck the fulcrum trem, or I may not, since the trem claw is already cranked as seen, and the chains seem to lock the trem in position. I'll decide later.


In the electronics cavity, you can see some "confetti pieces". Never seen those before. What are they, and what do they do?


Confetti pieces.


I'll take proper "full reveal" photos after I get this guitar cleaned and set up. Guitar didn't come with a trem cavity backplate; where is the cheapest place to buy one?

For my next magic trick, I hope to score a cheap Model 1A! That's the one I really want!

[Nightbat]

I used shims to create a negative angle on my SDX, but that carries a floyd, which I wanted to mod to dive only and let it rest on the body

[toejam]

Nice! Would love to see it all cleaned up. The confetti pieces were for the party that guitar had.

[Johnnyryche]

Nice score!

[Number Of The Priest]

I used shims to create a negative angle on my SDX, but that carries a floyd, which I wanted to mod to dive only and let it rest on the body

Alternatively, a Tremstopper would do the same thing and you'd probably get better coupling between neck and neck pocket, if that sort of thing matters to you.

Spent a few hours today working on this guitar and I'm still not done. Had to stop because the nut fell off as I was treating the frets and fretboard with steel wool. Upon closer inspection, a previous owner also shimmed the nut with a tiny piece of glued-on aluminum. I peeled it away and used Elmer's glue to reattach the nut to the shelf. Maybe I should have sanded both surfaces before gluing but there seems to be good contact as-is. If it's not secure in the future, I'll do a proper job with sandpaper and glue. Waiting for the glue to set overnight before I continue work.

[jspeed]

Waiting for the glue to set overnight before I continue work.

Super glue is your best friend!

[DonP]

I've never seen anyone recommend superglue for a nut. Only elmer's white glue. You want to be able to remove / replace the nut in the future (refret job), and the strings will hold it down.

[Number Of The Priest]

In my gluing process today, I discovered the asymmetry of the pointy Jackson/Charvel headstock and the resulting string angles contribute to pulling the nut towards the treble side when the guitar is in standard tuning with a set of new 10-46 strings.

I had to loosen the B and high E strings, otherwise they would drag the nut downward. Hopefully the tension on the E, A, D, and G strings is enough to counter the pull of the B and high E while the glue dries.

[jspeed]

I've never seen anyone recommend superglue for a nut. Only elmer's white glue. You want to be able to remove / replace the nut in the future (refret job), and the strings will hold it down.

Don,

All you need to do is put a small bead of super glue on the nut and hold it in place for a few seconds, done.
If you ever need to take it off, it just pops off, easy, no bs, I've super glued over 100 nuts on Charvels, no problems.

I've even used super glue to glue on brass nuts on Charvel necks too, try using elmers with on a brass nut and watch what happens, lol

[jspeed]

In my gluing process today, I discovered the asymmetry of the pointy Jackson/Charvel headstock and the resulting string angles contribute to pulling the nut towards the treble side when the guitar is in standard tuning with a set of new 10-46 strings.

I had to loosen the B and high E strings, otherwise they would drag the nut downward. Hopefully the tension on the E, A, D, and G strings is enough to counter the pull of the B and high E while the glue dries.

Seriously Bro, if that elmers has no ballz, just use super glue and call is done.
If you glue it on wrong, no biggie, don't cry, just tap the nut with a screwdriver or something and it will pop right off.
On a Model series nut shelf it's easy, super glue is your friend, just don't be a pig about it, a little tiny bead in the corner is all you need.

[Number Of The Priest]

Where exactly do you apply your small bead of super glue? Why on the corner and not in the center? Which corner?

[jspeed]

The lower corner where the nut is facing the fretboard,
The super glue just tacks the nut wood.
Don't go crazy and sloppy, just a real thin bead is all you need.

Its not that big a deal, just make sure you center it quick before it hardens.
If you glue it on crooked, tap it off, clean it off, try it again until you got it right.

[Nightbat]

Alternatively, a Tremstopper would do the same thing and you'd probably get better coupling between neck and neck pocket, if that sort of thing matters to you.

I'm lazy and cheap
So I grabbed some cedar wood from a sigarcase and went to town

[Number Of The Priest]

Well, my nut gluing didn't work, so it's still sliding downward. Compounding the problem is that I've been struggling with the setup when it should have been easy. There is massive string buzz from about the 7th-17th frets with a nearly straight neck, so I raised the saddles and loosened the truss rod A LOT (a quarter turn should have been more than enough, but I think I've done nearly three quarter turns already). While I got some relief, the buzz didn't go away. Since the nut was sliding, I gave up for the time being until I could buy some sandpaper to clean the nut shelf, then attack the setup/buzzing problem.

This evening I got a call from my buddy I met a few months ago saying the seller is a snake who had previously tried selling this Model 1 without disclosing a BROKEN TRUSS ROD. My buddy had actually bought the guitar before and returned it when he discovered the broken truss rod, and I'm just the latest victim. My buddy told me to knock on the neck and I should hear rattling inside, and while I didn't hear anything, that might possibly explain the buzzing problem. He suggests getting the guitar x-rayed, but how would this realistically be done? Call up my dental office and ask them to x-ray my guitar neck?

I've e-mailed the seller and we'll see where this goes.

Worse case scenario is that I'm out $180 but have a perfectly good body, tuners, bridge, pickup, and electronics. I can always look out for another Model 1 neck, or just buy one from Warmoth.

[kamanda]

Time to Get the steamer out...