NGD & pics: 1987-88 Charvel Model 1 (another cheap deal)

[Number Of The Priest]

The seller denies knowing something is possibly wrong with the truss rod. I decided to give the guitar another chance, because I believe there's no guitar I can't set up as long as all parts are functional, and I don't hear a broken truss rod rattling inside the neck.

I cleaned the nut shelf by scraping away all the old glue and gunk with a small chisel as per Dan Erlewine's book The Guitar Player Repair Guide, and again tried Elmer's white glue to reattach the nut. It didn't set. Went out to buy sandpaper, superglue (only found one kind that was labeled appropriate for wood AND plastic), and a utility knife to help me tackle this tomorrow.

Then the guitar somehow slipped from my grip, and I barely caught it to prevent more serious impact, but the high E tuner button hit my carpeted floor and snapped off. Nearly sixteen years of guitar ownership and I've never dropped a guitar nor broke anything until now, on a guitar that I was hoping to return to the seller if I couldn't work my magic on it. Where can I get one Jackson-labeled Gotoh replacement tuner? I might try supergluing the button back on first... if that fails, I'll borrow the tuners off my black Model 1C since I've been meaning to put locking tuners on that guitar anyway.

I think this red Model 1 might be cursed.

The only successful accomplishment tonight was removing the acorn nut from the truss rod to give the acorn nut and truss rod threads a good cleaning with a Q-tip and light lubrication with petroleum jelly, then reattaching the acorn nut. (Directions were followed as per Dan Erlewine's DVD, How to Make your Electric Guitar Play Great.)

[Axewielder]

Sounds like it's your ride now! Everyone should own at least one cursed guitar.

You should be able to check the relief with the low E string fretted at 1 and 12 using feeler gauges, then adjust the truss and see if it moves.

[Number Of The Priest]

More cursed guitar tales: Right after breaking the high E tuner button, I packed the guitar in a gigbag and brought it with me to a music store, hoping to find compatible supplies (tuners, tremolo cover, and possibly a nicer nut). Bought nothing except the sandpaper, superglue, and hobby knife at a hardware store, and brought that stuff into the house with me. This morning, I suddenly remembered that I forgot the guitar in the back seat overnight, and we've been having some cold nights lately. I think I've now resigned myself to my fate as its owner.

I've had a good run actually! About two years ago was the last time I bought a lemon, but I quickly managed to resell that one locally without taking a hit (and without the guitar taking a "hit" either ) because invest energy into tinkering with it, thus mitigating any accidents. I'm probably more honest now and would feel compelled to disclose everything I knew about this Model 1 if I were to sell it.

To check relief, I've been using the technique of fretting the 1st and 17th frets on the either E string, and then lightly tapping around the 9th fret. Picked up that technique years ago from a Taylor factory setup video. Due to the nut becoming repeatedly detached, checking relief using your way or mine has been challenging.

Hope to superglue the nut tonight, let it set, then tackle the 7th-17th fret buzz problem again.

[paranoid]

straight edge the neck before you string it. if there is a serious neck condition it should show. I do not believe the truss rod could be broke, if it was you would not have a problem with the fret buss in the middle of the neck, you would have plenty of gap. Use super glue on the nut, quit pissing around with kids glue. there should be plenty of used tuners on ebay to buy.

[toejam]

Man, that's a bummer. Hope it turns out okay and you get it up and running!

[Number Of The Priest]

Nut was superglued earlier this evening before I went out to buy the SL3X and TKL case. I might have used a bit too small a dot of glue because I accidentally nudged it before it fully set and it slightly wiggles. It's late now so I'll examine it tomorrow.

I should clarify. The 7th-17th fret area wasn't buzzing. It was DEAD, as if the strings were lying pressed on top of the frets. Checking with multiple rulers of different lengths (I don't have proper straightedges), I can easily see the neck has a tiny bit of relief, a small gap under the middle of the fretboard. I actually had a bigger gap the other night before removing and cleaning the truss rod acorn nut. Picked up a new tip from the Dan Erlewine video: Better to have a straight or even slightly backbowed neck when there is no string tension, so that (if necessary) you can loosen the truss rod into straightness/relief once the strings are at full tension.

Thanks for the suggestion to look for Jackson-labeled tuners on eBay! They seem pretty affordable.

[Number Of The Priest]

After having not touched this "problem guitar" for several weeks, I resumed work on it today.

The neck held steady with its superglue treatment from last time. Relief was fine from last time, and there's just a little bit of relief.

In order to clear the 7th-17th fret "dead zone", I raised the saddle heights on the low and high E strings, which now measure 0.07-inch and 0.05-inch respectively if I recall correctly. That's actually a bit higher than I like because I KNOW I can get the action on my other guitars lower than that without buzzing PURELY BY FEEL and eyeballing. Like Dan Erlewine says, "I like a straight neck and the strings as low as I can get them, like a race car." Unfortunately, I can't get this Model 1 any lower without buzzing rearing its ugly head, so sadly it will never be as low as a race car.

Then I adjusted the saddle heights of the middle strings, all of which needed raising to clear the "dead zone" and to meet the 20" radius at the bridge (since a typical Jackson/Charvel's 12-16" fretboard radius would extend to about 20" at the bridge). That took care of 95% of the dead spot issues. A couple of the frets still have minor buzzing and either my D or G string is semi-dead on the 14th fret, which sucks because that's an important note for playing in E-minor pentatonic.

Because I had accidentally broken the high E tuner button, I replaced ALL the tuners with a new set of correct Jackson-logo Gotoh tuners from eBay. Easy peasy.

Had some trouble with intonation on this fulcrum trem. The low E intonation adjustment screw is quite stripped, making it difficult for the screwdriver to get a grip. For some reason I couldn't get all six strings to intonate perfectly, having to adjust all the saddles rearward and still can't nail it perfectly for some odd reason. The low E saddle is nearly at the end of its rearward travel and it's still a couple cents off. I generally seek perfection, but oh well, close enough for rock and roll this time.

Guitar sounds phenomenal (other than the minor buzzing and one semi-dead fret reported above) and harmonics leap off the fretboard (likely because of the higher action), but it's more difficult to play than my other guitars because I can't get it "race car low". By contrast, my black Model 1C is "race car low" and is effortless to play, and that one is a keeper. I may end up selling this red Model 1 simply because my other guitars outplay it and because I'm running out of space. Thank goodness the truss rod isn't broken and there are no structural issues with the guitar after all. I learned a lot about setups and adjustments, so the tuition was priceless. As-is, this guitar will likely be perfectly fine for a less picky player, so I'm satisfied I got it about 90% operational.

"Full reveal" pics to come tomorrow.

[paranoid]

looks like time to learn fret leveling, its a good sounding guitar but you don't love it so what do you have to loose. if it works good you will have a great guitar, if it goes bad sell it.

[Number Of The Priest]

That thought crossed my mind. Then I remembered that I noticed very little actual fret wear or pitting. Frets have more life remaining than my Model 1C neck. Just by that observation, the Model 1C's frets and playability should be worse than this Model 1.

Mysteries of the universe.

Since this "unplayability" issue is beyond my knowledge and experience as an amateur tech, I might seek the opinion of another tech. If it needs a fret level, so be it.

[paranoid]

frets do not have to have pits or grooves to need leveled. if the neck is as straight as you can get it and you have frets that buzz or are dead, it more then likely needs leveled.

[toejam]

Had some trouble with intonation on this fulcrum trem. The low E intonation adjustment screw is quite stripped, making it difficult for the screwdriver to get a grip. For some reason I couldn't get all six strings to intonate perfectly, having to adjust all the saddles rearward and still can't nail it perfectly for some odd reason. The low E saddle is nearly at the end of its rearward travel and it's still a couple cents off. I generally seek perfection, but oh well, close enough for rock and roll this time.

You could always remove the saddle spring so you've got a little more room to bring the saddle back.

[Number Of The Priest]

Noted. Thanks guys. These are things I'll tackle if I ever get around to further refining this guitar.

In the meantime, disassembly and "full reveal" pics!

Neck heel and neck pocket stamps are either faded beyond recognition or are nonexistent. The ones on my black Model 1C are still semi-legible.


No idea what this "01 23" stamp inside the trem cavity means.








Standard-spaced, uncovered J90C pickup. I think 1986 was the only year they came uncovered, then in 1987-1988 they were covered. Pickup polepieces a little less rusty than before, thanks to cleaning with naphtha, but I couldn't remove all the rust. Note the saddles (especially the low E) have little rearward travel room remaining.






Reglued nut. For some reason it doesn't look "perfectly" flush with the nut shelf but it holds very tightly and I'm experiencing absolutely no issues. Guitar resonates very well.




New Jackson-logo Gotoh tuners from eBay.

[z1n]

I still don't understand that chain on the trem? Ive always seen the springs pulling against a lock. Any Thoughts?

[Number Of The Priest]

I left those chains attached. Like a problem-free appendix, I decided they don't do any particular harm nor good. It's easy enough to "deck" the trem by screwing in the trem claw fully (which this trem claw already is). I've done this on my Model 1C. But I guess they add to the stability. If I insert a compatible whammy bar and try to use it, the trem won't budge. A decked trem will still dive, given enough strength.

No idea if those chains are partially why this guitar is so loud and resonant.

[GrimRiffer]

I'd gladly pat $140 for that...problems and all.