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  • Ngd '89 650 xl

    As some of you probably saw, I ended up getting the 650 XL I had posted about. I shot him an offer, he accepted and we met up a few hours later. My first impressions after being up most of the night with it and a little today are that it is one hell of an instrument.

    The body, neck, and frets are all in pretty good to great shape. The worst two spots are the headstock point and in the pull-up route there's a blemish on the ledge that's only visible from the bottom. Body has 4 or 5 small dimples and a small bit of swirling on the back and a little on the forearm contour, frets overall look good, a few flatter spots but for the most part still have good shape and plenty of life left. The headstock point is chipped but it's not too bad. Pretty impressed for its age.

    The only issue is what's going on with the trem. On the high side someone notched the post and has the trem sitting on this notch. I haven't taken it apart yet to see if the post is stuck or what exactly the reasoning is. it needs a setup and adjustment (obviously, at the least), has some buzz playing around the 5th fret.

    But even with that, it plays soo nice. And the neck? Super comfortable shape. Outside of the buzz it resonates very well, and so far I'm in love with the Jackson pickups. It's a lot heavier than I had expected. It's noticeably heavier than my other guitars. The electronics all work great, the shaft on the mid boost pot is slightly bent but works.

    Im pretty excited to see how well it plays after I get the trem situated and a good setup because I'm already quite impressed. I really think it has the potential to dethrone my dk2m. The neck just fits in my hand so well. It's also my first top mount trem, and imo, the angled neck is much more comfortable. JC really knocked it out of the park with these guitars.

    And now, the goods

    Last edited by TKEblue; 04-03-2017, 09:18 PM.
    I'm going to give you the keys to the Lamborghini

  • #2
    Nice one, I always wanted one. Still do.
    METAL, LIVE IT!

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    • #3
      Congrats! Would love to hear an update after you set the trem back on its original notch. How much did you end up paying? I am presuming less than USD$400? (Reference thread: http://www.jcfonline.com/threads/152...desert-crackle)

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      • #4
        Great guitar! Enjoy!

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        • #5
          I got it for $350.

          I met him at GC and he was a little late. While I was waiting I was playing one of the juggernaut pro ht6s through one of the new spider Vs and was really digging it. The juggernaut body shape is as comfy as it looks and super light weight. I thought it was pretty nice, especially for MII, then he walked up, handed me the Charvel and the quality difference was instantly noticeable.

          After I get some time to get the kinks worked out I'll post a clip or something.
          I'm going to give you the keys to the Lamborghini

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          • #6
            I had one about 10 years ago. I updated the hw to new chrome. Pickups to EMG. I changed around my 3 knobs. Nothing in the top - filled with a painted flat carriage bolt, volume in the middle, on/off toggle on the bottom. Wired tone wide open and pitched the pot. The axe screamed but busted strings all the time - even with brand new Shaller. Had my tech guy look it over, make adjustments, but still I could not keep strings on it. It sure was a mean machine though. I had a friend with a LP that had the same probs. Sadly, he had to part with his too.

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            • #7
              Beauty instrument! I would go the easy route and just replace those studs

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              • #8
                Cool!

                My Co#1 guitar is my pearl white 650 Custom. She was in a pitiful state when I rescued her. Some chowderhead had installed an defective sounding EMG 81 at the bridge, but left the stock passive J200s at the neck and middle!! They had also removed the JE-12000 mid boost, and the strings must have been literally 10 years old. I'm guessing it was under someone's bed for that long. But the body/neck and frets were pristine, which is what mattered.

                I did a full restoration and cleaning, and installed a new EMG 85 at the bridge (MUCH fatter sound) and two Steve Lukather SLV singles, plus the very important EMG SPC mid boost control in the place of my original JE-1200 mid boost knob. Then slapped on some S.I.T 10-46 and did a setup, and it's like fighter jet! It's right up there with my MIJ Soloist.

                I did learn something valuable from the Soloist, however. It has the late production J50M bridge pickup, which is a LOT meaner than the J50BC than came in the 650. It is a worthwhile replacement IMO if you like a toasty pickup, although they aren't exactly easy to find now...
                '95 Charvel San Dimas USA Model I Koa - BKP
                '91 Charvel 650 Custom - EMG 85/SLV/SLV+SPC
                '92 Jackson Soloist Pro MIJ
                '91 Charvel 475 Exotic Cherry Sunburst - Duncan PATB set
                '90 Charvel 475 XL
                '10 Charvel San Dimas MIJ Style 1 2H - JB/'59
                Mesa Boogie Quad Preamp/Stereo Simul-Class 2:90
                Mesa Boogie MkIII+ Simul-Class & MkIVb with Mark Series stack
                Marshall JVM410H

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                • #9
                  Right on man, I'm glad you like yours!

                  I've been pretty happy with the J50BC. It's actually currently my favorite pickup. It's not gonna do a modern metal sound but what it does do, it does damn well. Plus I think it sounds perfect with my amalgamated style of playing.
                  I really love the tonal variety this guitar is capable of.
                  I'm going to give you the keys to the Lamborghini

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    An update and some questions..

                    So as I said this guitar had a pretty good amount of buzz going on.

                    First thing, the neck needed a bit of relief, nice and slow over a few days, 2, 1/4 turns. Check.

                    I then went to address the issue with the knife edge sitting on a notch in the post. Turns out there was no issue, I think they had made an adjustment with the trem under full tension, and basically the knife edge threaded its way up the post. Check.

                    Adjusted claw screws to level out trem after neck adjustments. Check.

                    On to action. Brought low E to just over 1.5mm, high e to just under 2mm.

                    Check action.
                    E -light buzz, not ideal but tolerable.
                    A -no buzz
                    D -worse than before.
                    G -light buzz
                    B -very light buzz
                    e -no buzz

                    At this point I was a little confused. I had noticed the D saddle sitting slightly lower than its surrounding cast and thought, that doesn't seem right, maybe the saddle is stuck not pivoting? So I pull it off and notice a number 2 on the bottom. Lol

                    So they're currently all soaking. They were all in the wrong position, and one is missing the bottom brass/copper thing that keeps the block in. Three of the saddles are stuck and all blocks are stuck as of now.

                    I also think I need a new tension plate due to the saddles being stuck for who knows how long. I loosened the fine tuners and lifted the string lock screw and the finger stayed in the same position.

                    So will I need to replace the saddle that is missing the bottom piece? Is an ofr saddle exactly the same (screw threads and all)? And should I just order all new blocks as well?
                    I'm going to give you the keys to the Lamborghini

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                    • #11
                      Well the saddles have been soaking in wd40 for about 3 weeks now.. beginning to think they're not going to loosen up. Lol

                      I've been debating replacing the saddles and adding a brass block, or for a few dollars more just getting the gotoh but I'm leaning toward keeping the 590 just because it's original.
                      I'm going to give you the keys to the Lamborghini

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                      • #12
                        If the saddles are frozen where they should be pivoting, I have used 2 crescent wrenches (placing them snugly on either side of the pivot pin) and some muscle to break them free from the frozen position. Once they move just a little bit, oil can get in there and really help them move.

                        Regarding the action, I have used shims in addition to their proper order to match the flatter radius of J/Cs. A word of caution with this: The 590 already uses short screws that attach the saddle to the baseplate, where they just barely or might not go thru the entire baseplate. When a shim is used, even less thread is in contact which places them at higher risk of stripping the baseplate with the screw when tightening. The same screws on an OFR are much longer, and for some reason more square on top where the allen wrench goes (the 590 has a more rounded head). The screws I got from Stew Mac many moons ago were the longer ones.

                        BTW, nice 650xl!
                        "Your work is ingenius…it’s quality work….and there are simply too many notes…that’s all, just cut a few, and it’ll be perfect."

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                        • #13
                          I stayed on top of it for about a week, kept fresh wd40 on them and tried to forcibly wiggle them every day by hand. The oil was consistently dirty so I had hope they would free up. After that I got busy and kind of forgot about it then remembered they were still soaking and checked them last night.

                          I don't know how I hadn't thought of using two crescent wrenches. That should work well. I had considered trying channel locks and a rag but crescent wrenches would probably work better. I'll try that tomorrow, thanks!
                          I'm going to give you the keys to the Lamborghini

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                          • #14
                            @MetalMedal II; that worked perfectly. I did all three with the wrenches, wiggling them for about 30 seconds each then wiping off what squeezed out and putting them back in wd40 and moving to the next. By the third time I could do 2 easily by hand and the third was close. By the 4th time the easier 2 were indistinguishable from the other saddles and the 3rd was easily done by hand. I'm giving the last one some soak time right now and I expect it will be good to go in a few. Thanks for the advice!
                            I'm going to give you the keys to the Lamborghini

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                            • #15
                              Cool, glad to hear my advice worked (for a change!, lol). I've come across many a frozen Floyd and Kahler parts over the years. With Kahler parts, I can use a punch pin to disassemble the saddle for cleaning, but was never able to do that with the Floyd part, hence using the wrenches.
                              "Your work is ingenius…it’s quality work….and there are simply too many notes…that’s all, just cut a few, and it’ll be perfect."

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