Help to ID this Charvel

[White]

Re: Help to ID this Charvel

You may be able to just shim the nut. a couple of sheets of paper or a chopped buisness card would raise it just enough to clear the first fret, but that depends on the severity of the problem.

$5? Ive never seen even a cheapo locking nut under $10.

[Tekky]

Re: Help to ID this Charvel

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Are you saying that the serial number method of dating neck thrus isn't reliable? I knew that the bolt ons had that problem. So if you don't believe the serial number denotes the year, what are your beliefs? Teach me, oh master of all that is import Charvel. [img]/images/graemlins/notworthy.gif[/img]

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This has been debated quite a bit throughout this section and still nothing has convinced me as such. We even had folks post their import s/ns to see if we could figure the pattern. I could be wrong about this with neck-throughs, maybe there is some rhyme or reason to it. But then again, anomalies like yours still make me wonder...

My only method of determining the year of the guitar are the guitar components itself.

For example. The 86 Model 3 and Model 2 had the Kahler fulcrum tremolo. (The Model 3 varieties also had a pickguard) The 86 Model 4, 5, and 6 had the Kahler Pro. So far things like this are the only method I can see as definitive about finding out what year a guitar is, or isn't.

[Grandturk]

Re: Help to ID this Charvel

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The 86 Model 4, 5, and 6 had the Kahler Pro.

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Would that it were so - they only had the standard 2300 flat mount. Pros came with a steel cam and rollers, regular 2300's had brass cams and rollers.

[Tekky]

Re: Help to ID this Charvel

OK. I'm not very versed on Kahlers. I'm not a fan. So I stand corrected. They had the 2300 flat mount..

[Carbuff]

Re: Help to ID this Charvel

Wow, much debate while I was at work. Just to point out, it wasnt my guitar that needs a new nut. It was another posters guitar. Mine (in the pictures) has the headstock pushed back a bit and the fretboard has seperated a bit from the neck and therefore the nut appears lower than the 1st fret. If I squish it all back by hand it all lines up right again, so Im hopefull that a pro can glue it and clamp it just right to make it playable as new and still manage to save all the creme binding as some of it has come loose towards the headstock. Hmm maybe it is a prototype. It sure looks like the missing link. LOL!

George

[mudkicker]

Re: Help to ID this Charvel

Tekky don't forget about my neck plate dating theory. It seems to fairly accurate so far. Of course it doesn't help date the neck-throughs.

[Carbuff]

Re: Help to ID this Charvel

Well, I took it all apart up top. Removed the nut, truss rod cover, strings and the headstock seems fairly loose. I could easily snap it off if I pushed back on it.It would actually be easier to repair if it was completely off but Im trying to preserve the finish and binding on the neck. I gotta find someone to look at this for me.Also the truss rod nut is this brass colored thing that takes an actual wrench and not an allen key. Is this normal? Also It seems that I can squeaze it all together and it goes back to normal. Its just a matter of getting the glue in there it seems. This is frustrating!!!!

[RacerX]

Re: Help to ID this Charvel

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I don't know when Charvel switched logos on the foreign market guitars.

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That was around 1988-89.

[dg]

Re: Help to ID this Charvel

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Also the truss rod nut is this brass colored thing that takes an actual wrench and not an allen key. Is this normal?

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Yup, normal for these guitars.

[straycat]

Re: Help to ID this Charvel

Model 6s were top mount as far as the trem goes his looks to have a resessed trem so my guess is a 650XL but an early one because of the logo.The ser # looks to be 1990.The painted headstock makes me think 650XL as well.
I have seen 2 model 6s with odd nuts 1 with a Kahler floyd nut and 1 with a reg floyd nut that look like factory equip.