Floyd locking nut size for Model Series?

[magnuspauli]

Re: Floyd locking nut size for Model Series?

Just remember that you DONT have to drill holes THROUGH the neck to place the Floyd Nut, you can just drill two small holes and then screw the nut DOWN on the headstock - without having to drill through.
.

Drilling two holes can weaken the neck...

[magnuspauli]

Re: Floyd locking nut size for Model Series?

BTW:
Did you guys altso have to put metal plate UNDER the Floyd nut because it was too low?

Or do you just use the Floyd nut straight on the wood?

[ApeDosMil]

Re: Floyd locking nut size for Model Series?

Why would you want a floyd nut on them? the Kahler nut seems far superior to a floyd nut I think. [img]/images/graemlins/scratchhead.gif[/img]

[LexLuthier]

Re: Floyd locking nut size for Model Series?

[ QUOTE ]
I definitely have an R3 nut, I purchased a new OFR for this Model 1. I've been searching to see if there was a pre-made wedge for this type of problem but I can only find the straight shims. If anyone has any picts of what the modification looks like at the headstock, that would be great or if anyone knows where I could get a custom wedge, that would be even greater! Thanks.

[/ QUOTE ]

I've done a couple Model 6's with Floyd nuts in the past, I used R3 nuts. It really isn't a DYI job. I made the wedges out of maple. Also, because of the width of the truss rod rout, you cannot top mount the floyd nut with wood screws, you must drill thru the neck. I had to fill the truss rod rout temporarily with a small maple wood block so I could drill the holes without the drill bit wandering off center, then I removed the block when I was done. Obviously, this will weaken the headstock some, but there is no way around it if you want a Floyd nut on it. You may, or may not, have to shim up the nut for proper height.

A Kahler nut is the best option on these, and now that Kahler is back they are easier to obtain.