model 6 questions

[lgldealer]

I've got a model 6, serial# C704979. I'm not sure how old it is, but I've owned it for at least 8 years. It has a Floyd Rose Licensed Tremelo with the Jackson logo on it. The fine tuners are horizontal instead of upright like modern Floyd Roses. The long and short is its starting to break down...allen screws stripped etc... and I'm not sure where to get replacement stuff. Are these the same screws as they use in the newer Floyd's? Any help appreciated. Also has anyone used a hipshot trem-stabilizer and is it worth the investment?

[Budman68]

Re: model 6 questions

Hi there,
The model you have is from 1987. The trem you are describing is a JT6 which was standard on the model 6's of that year. Sometimes you see these trems on ebay so maybe you could pick one up there or maybe you could put a "want to buy" add in the classifieds section here in the forum. As far as screw replacement, I'm not sure that the floyd parts are interchangable with those as I have never tried it. An original Floyd Rose will drop right in the routing of your guitar if you decide to replace the whole unit. I've never used the hipshot tremsetter but I'm sure someone here has and will be able to answer your question.


Dave->

[Shawn Lutz]

Re: model 6 questions

Dave is right.. you can find the JT6 on eBay periodically. If you are replacing the trem I'd go with a Floyd Rose Original. You should be able to drop it right in using the same posts and bushings.

[guitar geek]

Re: model 6 questions

hmm, since I am expecting the same problem as well with my (tomorrow arriving) model 6 I consisder this pretty interesting information as well.

So it is possible to put an OFR or OFR II in it yourself? Does it use the same studs (or whatever you might call it, the sticks on which it rests)?

Harrald

[2Loud2Old]

Re: model 6 questions

Just as an aside,

I had a problem with stripped string lock screws on my JT6.

I'm refering to the screws for the string saddles, that hold the fine tuners and the string block clamps.

A guy on Ebay sells a set of screws to fit the JT6.

They are a little pricey, about $24.00, but he gives you a "Snap-on" allen wrench, better than the crap ones at the Hardware store.

These screws are the best damm screws I've seen, they are high quality ones, much better than stock.

[ May 25, 2003, 11:05 AM: Message edited by: 2Loud2Old ]

[jr73]

Re: model 6 questions

USE a cheap allen wrench, it if far better to strip the wrench than the screws. ive gone thru many allen wrenchs & luckily enough have not srtipped out a single OFR part....knock on wood.

also anyone putting a OFR on a model 6, the OFR is a slightly different radious than the JT6. so unless u shim the saddles you can NOT get the action as nice & even across the board. the OFR will drop right in & will work on the JT6 posts, so you can buy a cheaper used OFR with no hardware, if you wanted.

[2Loud2Old]

Re: model 6 questions

Now, while not a guitar tech.. I spend a great deal of time working on motorcycles.. and I can assure you that one of the quickest ways to ruin a hex or allen bolt is to use an inferior "soft-metal" wrench.. They will round, which will damage the socket.

How long this takes to wear is of debate, but as you "round" the wrench, you reduce the effective "size", creating slipage which WILL further damage both the tool and the bolt.

The allen socket or Hex head requires an almost perfect mating surface with the proper tool to perform properly, it was designed for the aircraft industry and will go along way, provided it is used correctly

Any mechanic will tell you this.. applies to guitars just as well.

Of course, in the end there are no absolutes and one may very well go for years usinng crap wrenches without a problem, but I would never consider using inferior tools, having seen first hand what they can damage.

All that said, the JT6 fine tuner screws are of an inferior metal and will round quite easily if too much pressure is applied.


I will mention that I have 2 JT6's that have the original screws and are not stripped, mainly because I don't crank them, only a snug fit is needed.

1/4 turn past finger tight is the MOST amount of clamping pressure you should need, any more does 1 of 2 things, risks stripping the bolt head, and presses the string into the string saddle block, making it harder to get good clamping pressure in the future.

As far as the screws I was mentioning, they have excellent deep socket wells, and are even better than the ones on an OFR.. I wish I could source them out..

[ May 25, 2003, 12:31 PM: Message edited by: 2Loud2Old ]

[Budman68]

Re: model 6 questions

I have to agree 2loud, as I am a toolmaker by trade and you never want to use junk wrenches or junk screws. Yes, the JT6 has inferior hardware but with caution and care, that hardware can last a very long time. You are also correct that most people tighten that stuff waaaaayyy too tight. As for where to find bolts and screws, try a place like www.mscdirect.com. You may have to buy a box of a hundred and they do charge a minimum so you may want to order a lot of stuff at one time.

Dave->

[RHOADS TONE]

Re: model 6 questions

I do not remember if this applied to the arch top's or not.
I seem to remember that there are 2 different trem block lengths when it comes to Floyds.
Anyone know about this.

[Budman68]

Re: model 6 questions

I think there are only two sizes. One for recessed trems and one for non-recssed trems.(I think [img]graemlins/eyes.gif[/img] )
Dave->

[charvel750]

Re: model 6 questions

There's actually three formal blocks: the 32 mm, the 37 mm, and the 42 mm. Of course, a pro can take away from any of those lengths, but they are the industry standard.