Model 3 lock nut

[jsw2k]

New here...Just purchase my first Charvel...a model 3 in blue with JT-6 and lock nut (thanks to the info on this site I feel confident in my ID).

Anyway, my question is with the lock nut; it seems silly and is, I think the primary cause of the guitar going out of tune on whammy use.

Can anyone tell me how this locknut is supposed to work? And while I'm at it, isn't the whole purpose of the locknut defeated with this adaptation? (that is after the standard nut?)

Thanks for all the help
Jeff

[skorb]

that looks like it's worth getting rid of. would a Kahler lock nut fit there?

[Sunbane]

Hello and welcome Jeff!

I would agree with you that this style of string lock is less than ideal. I much prefer a regular locking nut, as that almost completely eliminates the risk of strings slipping. Some people prefer the behind-the-nut string lock though, since they don't like the sound of a metal nut.

First of all you need to determine if it's the string lock or the phenolic nut that is causing strings to bind or slip. Ideally, the string lock should hold the strings firmly, while the nut should let the strings glide freely through its notches. Tune up your guitar and lock the string lock - then strike a chord and press on the strings behind the string lock (near the tuners). If you can hear strings going sharp, then the string lock is failing. If the guitar maintains its tuning, then its probably that the strings are binding in the nut.

Unfortunately, converting the guitar to take a Floyd-style locking nut is a rather delicate operation that would be best left to a professional guitar tech - unless you are proficient at woodworking. The option would be to try to minimize the problems that this nut/string lock configuration has. If the string lock is bad, you could probably replace it with a new Kahler string lock. If the nut is bad, you could carefully file the notches and prep them with graphite, or replace it with a new nut.

I hope this is of any help to you.

[MadJack]

That lock nut is a deluxe version. If you adjust it correctly it does its job well. If you dont it slips, or you break the levers and replace it out of necessity. I'd love to pay homage to the guitar but all I see is the headstock.

[jsw2k]

Preliminary photo

I didn't want to post photos 'til I cleaned it up, but here's a fair BEFORE shot (but after cleaning neck). It has what appears to be all the original hardware, including the strange locknut, which I still haven't figured out how to use!

I scrubbed the neck as the little cracks and divots in the grain were filled with what I assumed to be wax (!). A little Orange Glow wood cleaner with a toothbrush, some 00000 steel wool and a healthy application of elbow grease and it's starting to look good.

Since I was after this model for it's neck shape (yet I'd never played one in 30 years of playing), I was a little disappointed with it -- at first. The setup was pretty rough. I've adjusted the relief and bridge and -- but for a few pesky frets at the very top -- it plays really well. I may file them down. I was surprised at how narrow the neck is (1-5/8 at nut), but it kind of grows on you. Still looking for help on the nut. I can't figure out whether to tighten the screws and flip the lever, or what.

Here's the pic...

[jsw2k]

Here's one of the bridge, etc...before. It has that J series pickup that is really nice. Quite ballsy.

[Budman68]

Beautiful guitar you have there. Your neck should be 1-11/16ths, not 1-5/8ths. The lock should be adjustable by those screws under the levers. The levers work like a cam action and when the screws are tightened, they pull up the string lock blocks underneath the housing, up against the bottom of the strings. Just go a little at a time as not to break the levers because they are a cast material and will break if you're using too much pressure.

It's one of those "feel" things that you have to "get on to". Did that all make sense?

Oh, and NICE post 'bane -

BTW, you a "Carvel 750XL"?

[jsw2k]

Thanks Budman...

You're right; it DOES feel like they mey break off when the screws are tightened...I can see what you mean by - a feel thing.

Sunbane, I agree about having a pro do the work on changing over to a floyd-type nut. At your suggetion, I found the nut WAS NOT tight. With Budman's instructions, maybe I can get it dialed in proper.

There's no point in having a floyd if it goes out of tune.

Thanks, guys!

[MadJack]

Sorry I wasn't more concise in regards to the locknut...bain drammage.

I'd love to pay homage to the guitar but all I see is the headstock.

Beautiful guitar and glad you got the issue resolved.

[Nuclear Vampire]

Smokin guitar. Model 3's rule!

[texasfury]

I too have that model axe (got it for $320), and it's my fav, especially because it has active EMGs. I do dislike the string lock, and will get it over to a locking nut ASAP.

I'm guessing Kahler made a string lock because Floyd had the patent on locking nuts at the time. I would think Kahler would have made a locking nut if they could.

[skorb]

I'm guessing Kahler made a string lock because Floyd had the patent on locking nuts at the time. I would think Kahler would have made a locking nut if they could.

what time period are you talking about here? just curious. my 86 Model 2 has the standard behind-the-nut Kahler locking nut.

I had not seen this big bulky kind until he posted that pic. it looks really awkward to me.

[texasfury]

If it's behind the nut, it's not a locking nut, it's a string lock. A locking nut means that the unit acts as both a lock and a nut. The string lock merely locks the strings, you still need a nut.

[Sunbane]

Oh, and NICE post 'bane -

BTW, you a "Carvel 750XL"?

I dunno...what do you mean?

[Budman68]

I dunno...what do you mean?