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Model 3 lock nut

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  • #16
    Probably a stupid question, but I'm going to ask it anyway. How hard would it be to convert it to the JT-6/Kahler style behind the nut lock nut on his Model 3?

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    • #17
      Not hard at all Ray, at least not the actual Kahler model since it has the same screw pattern. As for the JT6 model, it has a slightly different spacing but the holes can be filled and redrilled. You can actually get away with fitting the JT6 on there without redrilling but it dpends on where they drilled the holes that day and they'll go in at an angle.
      Dave ->

      "would someone answer that damn phone?!?!"

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      • #18
        Well, taking all the advice, I finally got it locked down properly and, as suspected, there is binding at the nut. This of course is the same problem I have with my Strats and my Carvin...it renders the trem all but useless.

        If anyone's done a conversion, could you post pics? What I'm after is a Floyd-type locknut.

        Thanks!!

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        • #19
          Originally posted by jsw2k
          If anyone's done a conversion, could you post pics? What I'm after is a Floyd-type locknut.
          you'll be into some money for that.
          that's a big time route job on the neck to remove a regular nut and put on a floyd nut. probably $100 - 125 or more by a luthier who can do a good job. and that's before parts.
          the guitar players look damaged - they've been outcasts all their lives

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          • #20
            Is that right, Skorb? a "regular" lock nut needs additional routing (above and beyond what's already on this neck)?

            Hmmm; I might have to re-think this...

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            • #21
              dude, it's a major job, especially when converting from regular nut to the FR nut

              here's a pic of the route and a pic the final fit. you have to cut a lot of wood out and the entire nut out. it replaces the old nut.



              the guitar players look damaged - they've been outcasts all their lives

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              • #22
                if I were you, I'd just take that guitar to a good luthier, and ask him to file out the nut grooves so they are a bit bigger, and then he can lubricate them so the strings don't catch. then put on a regular Kahler string lock where your odd looking lock is now. it should be a perfect fit.

                you'd cure your tuning/whammy problems and be out a lot less cash.
                the guitar players look damaged - they've been outcasts all their lives

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                • #23
                  I agree with the above about just having the nut slots opened a bit but if the string lock you have on there now, is not broken, I rather have that unit then the one with just the screws. It's a better unit and you don't need tools!!
                  Dave ->

                  "would someone answer that damn phone?!?!"

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                  • #24
                    ...and if it was me, I would spend the money for the conversion to a real OFR nut - at least if I loved the guitar enough to justify the cost. For instance, it's no coincidence that Jeff Hanneman and Kerry King both use Floyd locking nuts with their Kahler trems. If you don't want to worry about tuning hassles, that's the only surefire way, IMO.

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                    • #25
                      I have no trouble with mine at all and I play very agressively. As difficult as it can be to change it, I'd try giving it a chance. I should warn you though, if you unscrew the adj. screws all of the way out, you'll be an hour or so trying to get it reassembled. I use an .88 dunlop nylon pick for a screwdriver as needed but usually finger tight is just about right.
                      If I had to rely on it on stage I might consider the retrofit, or most likely different guitars.
                      "tie two birds together and though they have four wings, they cannot fly"

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                      • #26
                        This past weekend I disassembled both the bridge and the string lock, cleaned 'em up real good, put 'em back together and, well, the string lock has it's shortcomings.

                        For one, with the radical headstock shape -- and attendant splaying of the strings -- the G-string (the one that gives me trouble on both of my Strats) misses the lock plate, emerging on the side of it rather than thru it. Of course, it doesn't lock the string that way and, when whammy-ing (even subtle wiggly stuff), the damn thing goes sharp.

                        But I haven't given up hope. I'd like to keep the guitar "stock" (no drilling or routing if possible) and I believe the string lock is capable of doing a good job; assuming I can get it to work. I haven't figured it all out yet, but if I do, I don't see why it won't work, even if it is "behind the nut".

                        If I do get it all together, I would then be interested in replacing the thing with a more "standard" Kahler string lock. This one (I know, it's the deluxe model) is an eyesore. Having a screwdriver handy isn't that big a deal.

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                        • #27
                          Hey, correct me if I am wrong....but isn't this the same "locking nut" that is on the Kahler site......And if it is, then it should be able to be replaced by a Kahler "screw type" locking nut ? ! ?

                          By the way, thank you for saving me from buying one....I was considering buying one and replacing one of my "screw-type" locking nuts...but I will now just save myself the agrivation. Good luck !

                          Oh, yeh.....Nice guitar !

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                          • #28
                            Thanks, Scars...

                            I never thought to look.

                            It seems you can buy this locknut new from Kahler...

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