Kahler vs. Floyd style Bridge

[Budman68]

Well, I have to side with Pete here. There is nothing that is going to touch a floyd (except maybe a Kahler Steeler which is a better floyd but that's a different argument ) when it comes to tuning stability. You're never going to pull off a vai or satch style with a Kahler no matter how much you try. The key is they're locked at both ends on the floyd and that's really the bottom line. I love OLD kahlers as much as the next guy, I really do, but no matter how many tricks you try like soldering the windings, or prebending, or even buying the special strings with the sleeves, it's just never going to match the tuning stability of a floyd, period. I would also have to see a video showing it to belive it as well. Priest is about the nastiest wanking you're going to see on a Kahler.

Sorry Julian, I can't side with you on this one -

[Twisteramps]

Maybe their concept is that if it stays in tune through the night for a gig, then that is adequate and that more than that is a dick-measuring contest.

If you want to quantify it to make things fit your idea of equal or better than go for it. I described a measureable standard that I haven't seen a kahler, new, old, properly set up, flyer or pro match. People have touted Kahlers as staying in tune as well as a floyd. Sorry, ain't true.

Yup, pop a string on a floating floyd and the whole thing goes out of tune. Last three years I've probably played 70+ shows (I typically play 2-6 times a month) and I had a string break ONCE. I also make sure there aren't rough edges on my saddles and if a string gets a bend in it when I'm installing it I toss it. It's not rocket science. I also change strings frequently. If I was using 6 month old finger-eased to death strings, it might be an issue. The different tuning thing is a good point too, but I just have different guitars for different tunings. Besides, if you change your tuning you should reintonate the guitar and check the relief and action.

Pete

[GuitarWizard]

I too prefer Floyds but when it comes to keeping them in tune I don't find them any better than a Kahler.

[Mike]

I'd take a Floyd over a Kahler anyday.

[Twisteramps]

I too prefer Floyds but when it comes to keeping them in tune I don't find them any better than a Kahler.

Some of the cheaper floyds aren't. Some lubrication at the pivot points (knife edges) works wonders though. My comments are mainly regarding floyd rose originals, the schaller floyds, and Ibanez Edge and variants. Not so much the cheaper floyds like the 580s... they don't stay in tune very well overall.

Pete

[Dutchman]

This certainly is a passionate issue.
I'm enjoying this post though

[KennyF]

I'd take a Floyd over a Kahler anyday.

I'll take a wrap tail on a P90 Lester over either one.

[LexLuthier]

When Kahlers are set up right, I really have no problems with them. But then again I'm not wangling the whammy like Steve Vai or Brad Gillis either. I usually use the flip lock nut so I don't need to use any wrenches. I like the steel rollers, too.

Floyds are fine, I have a bunch of both so I can use either.

I think the problem with some of the Floyd knockoffs are the metal the base and posts are made of. I had an Ibanez with a Lo-TRS Floyd, and the baseplate was digging into the posts, because the metal was too soft on the posts, and it wouldn't stay in tune at all. All I did was change to posts to better quality ones, and the trem works fine now. I've also had some that the knife edge on the base would wear really fast, probably because of the lack of hardness in the metal.

[LastInLine]

I have floyded guitars that are tuned ONE time after stretching the strings and then I don't have to touch them again until it's time for a string change. Never seen a Kahler that could do that.

Based on my personal experiences with both the Floyd and the Kahler, I agree.

[MadJack]

I've never owned an axe with an OFR. I like the Khaler in my '86 Mod 5. I've posted regarding the "deluxe" lock nut. I wont go there again and I wont rant in favor of Khaler or knock them. Aside from the lack of a locking feature that would make changing strings much easier, 3 things come to mind.
1) The strings can slip at the bridge because the slots are wider than the hoops on the strings. No matter how hard I try to get them seated perfectly, they end up slipping to one side or the other. Next set I'm putting the hoops in sideways (if they fit).
2) I read somewhere(here) you can put bass trem springs on them and it will correct the non-centering/stay in tune issue.
3) The saddles are independant and that's great but...I had a Westone Spectrum FX way back and the saddles had 2 height screws parallel to each other. You could tilt the saddles from side to side! This design enabled me to compensate for the bending dynamics. How often do you pull when you bend? I love uberbending (5frets+). I can do it with the trem but I like trying to break the strings(figure of speach). Slightly tilting the saddles kept the strings from jumping out of the notches. Of course this doesn't happen on a rollered trem but the precision adjustments provided support under the saddles and theoretically transferred more vibration back to the trem plate which could produce more sustain.
Wouldn't 2 screws be better than a fulcrum?
Side note: my Khaler has brass rollers and produces remarkable sustain!

Well, I have three neck-through Model guitars. The sustain on the Kahlered one is measurably better than the Floyded ones (when played through no amp - just letting a note ring). My take on it: The swimming-pool route on the Floyded ones takes away a whole heap more wood (when compared to the Kahler route) and therefore affects sustain. So, I proclaim the exact opposite of your statement.

[pinto79]

I have a Kahler Pro, a Kahler Flyer, 3 OFRs, a FRII and 4 Edge trems in my arsenal. The Kahler is an awesome trem and I would never turn a guitar down because it had one, especially in the early Model Series where the other one you'll find is the JT-6...

I'll echo the Kahler doesn't stand up like a Floyd. True, but it's still better than a non-lockng unit and the smaller route is good for tone/sustain. If you want to grab that bar and shake the daylights out of your guitar and have it stay in tune, you have to use a well set up Floyd or Edge. Nothing else cuts it.

[richardlawson]

I've got a Kahler on my model 4, and a licenced floyd on my ibanez 440. The main difference I notice is the kahler doesn't accidently throw the tuning out when using palm muting, while the floyd is more sensitive. You just learn the characteristics of both. I don't really care either way.