need parts for my JT6

[Sanctuary]

What would be the chance of a batch of JT6 Posts? I know I need a couple sets and I'm sure there are many other people who are in need.

I seem to recall Budman has these available on his website again. http://www.fretsonthenet.net/hardwar..._Tremolo_Posts

[Johno]

Sweet, I'm there thanks.

[BloodRose]

You're welcome to it Jackson. Yeah, it's my drawing. I do a lot of mechanical design work and that's part of what I'm working on for the new screws.

Hey, what do you guys think about making them out of stainless steel? From one standpoint it's better because it's easier to machine, no finish is required, plus they'll look good longer. On the other hand, the alloy steel of the originals is a tiny bit harder, plus the black oxide finish (for corrosion protection) matches the bridge better. The problem with black oxide though is the cost. It would probably add $6-$8 per set. Any thoughts?

Stainless is fine. it is mostly contained by the adjustment ring anyhow. I just want to be able change strings in a reasonable amount of time and effort and not bastardize the look of the guitar too much.. If the color bugs me, I'll put black nail polish on it.. or sharpie

[BloodRose]

That would be an excellent price Tommy but I think I'd go with a heat treated tool steel for best results.



Not sure where you heard that but I've never made these, I've only carried used ones in excellent condition. I've considered it, but at the moment, I've got enough projects and ideas going that there's no room for them yet.



First of all, Eyeball (is that your real name? ), welcome to the forum. I don't think the stainless would hold up, unfortunately, as these get a lot of abuse by people who tend to overtighten them because they underestimate the holding strength.




Agreed completely, I've been a toolmaker for 23 years now (old school ) and high speed steel tooling/M2 works fine for stainless in a jobbing type shop. I have no doubt that in a high production shop (which we are not), that carbide and ceramic go a long way but for short runs like this, it's absolutely doable. Sure you can experience "hard spots" in the material but if you've ever used one on A-2 Tool steel, you know that threads are actually easier to cut in stainless.

One more thing I wanted to mention, here on the JCF, the admins do not like soliciting like this and while it can be unfortunate for those that could help out with making parts like this, and also those that need them, it's understandable because they have sponsors/dealers paying good money to advertise here and it's not fair to them. This is why you do not see me advertising here because it's frowned upon and it is a private board and I will abide by their rules.

Not being an admin kiss-ass or anything, just wanted to give you guys a heads-up

Dave,
Thanks for the info. I wasnt trying to give false info, I just assumed you made them as you have made several trem arms and parts for me.

[BloodRose]

Anything further on these parts?? I need to know. I may buy a used JT6 off ebay for the parts.. would rather wait and just get the parts I need here..

[Eyeball]

Sorry guys. I've been buried with work lately and I let this slip. There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of interest but I'll start a new thread with details later today to see if there's enough demand to make it worth while.

[Demp]

Bloodrose I sent you a PM...

[Eyeball]

Can anyone give me an idea of which forum I should post this in? Do other guitars beside import Charvels use the JT-6?

[Sanctuary]

The USA Jacksons had them too from the same ('87-88) era.

[Eyeball]

Just a quick update. I ordered some screws that are very close to the originals and will modify them in a few days. There doesn't seem to be a huge interest so I only ordered enough for 8 sets (1 for me).

I chose stainless mostly because this screw was nearly ready made and it keeps costs down. Again, the stainless is just a crumb softer than the original steel but it's easily strong enough for this purpose. The fact is that if you're stripping threads at all you're probably overtightening. Doesn't take too much to hold that string.

Anyway, the cost for a set of 6 with an allen wrench is $15 and I'll cover the shipping in the continental US. The $15 covers material, shipping and maybe a 6-pack for myself if all 7 sets go. Here's a quick description:

Questions?

[Eyeball]

These came out really nice.

I made 8 sets and here's (roughly) what they look like (my digital camera could be better ):



There are 5 sets still available so if you need one, PM or email me with your shipping address.

The total cost is $15 for 6 screws, 1 wrench and shipping (I priced these on cost of materials and shipping only, no profit).

Also let me know your paypal address so I can invoice you. If you'd rather send a check or money order let me know that when you send your shipping address and I'll reply with my mailing address.

(everyone's personal info will be treated with respect)

[Eyeball]

I know everyone's got their own way of doing things and feel free to tell me to shut the hell up if ya want but here are some tips for tightening stringlocks. I've had one of my Model 6's for almost 20 years and the stringlock screws are in perfect condition. If you're experiencing stripping of the threads you're most likely overtightening them.




(EDIT) It's also a good idea to clean the screws and put a drop of oil on the end of the threads, maybe once a year. A well lubricated screw will get tighter with less effort.

[Sanctuary]

O/T Question: What are those two extra switches for?

[gfunk333]

O/T Question: What are those two extra switches for?

bump ...

Does it have anything to do with the EMG's? boost circuit?

[Eyeball]

The rocker switches control the nitrous boost and the turbo

Nahh, they're actually just pickup selectors. As soon as I got this guitar ('89) I added them. The one on the right (closest to the knobs) is an "on-off" for the bridge pickup and the other one is "on-off-on" and selects either the neck pickup, neck-&-middle or neither. They may be 20 year old hair dryer switches but they still do the job perfectly. They're right where I need them and short enough that my picking hand doesn't hit them.

Here's a clearer shot of a knob. It's polished aluminum and the engraved skull guy is my informal logo (only for the coolest shop projects).