need parts for my JT6

[modelo dos]

Excellent news, Eyeball. I suspect I could be coerced into purchasing a set or two...

[Eyeball]

In the meantime if anyone's interested in giving it a try themselves here are the specs of the original screw.

[jackson1]

I'm gonna steal that pic for future reference, thanks Eyeball. Where did you find it? Did you do the machine drawing yourself?

That's great news of a possible production of these. I'm covered though.

[anden]

i would definitely be interested in a few of those. just restrung a model 88 for the first time in several years last week and one of the saddle screws is totally stripped. i remembered that was reason it was in storage for so long. i have already had to replace two of those screws for the same reason. used to go to the place where i bought it for new screws, but that was years ago.

[Eyeball]

I'm gonna steal that pic for future reference, thanks Eyeball. Where did you find it? Did you do the machine drawing yourself?

You're welcome to it Jackson. Yeah, it's my drawing. I do a lot of mechanical design work and that's part of what I'm working on for the new screws.

Hey, what do you guys think about making them out of stainless steel? From one standpoint it's better because it's easier to machine, no finish is required, plus they'll look good longer. On the other hand, the alloy steel of the originals is a tiny bit harder, plus the black oxide finish (for corrosion protection) matches the bridge better. The problem with black oxide though is the cost. It would probably add $6-$8 per set. Any thoughts?

[modelo dos]

Stainless would be fine by me, I don't think it would look that bad. As you can see from the picture of my JT-6, functionality and necessity win over appearance...





My only concern would be the hardness factor as they might tend strip out easier.

[TommyD]

need parts for my JT6

> I'd like to clear up a misconception if I may. Stainless steel is NOT an easy material to work with AT ALL. You can't cut threads on it with standard HSS tooling with any kind of efficiency,meaning that you have to use cemented carbide,indexable carbide,carbide "live" tooling,or something more exotic than that to thread it. I've have done it,but in some cases it requires different coolant,much more rigid machinery and set-up techniques,and the aforementioned carbide tooling. Carbide tooling is a totally different ballgame. The stuff is harder and slower to grind to the correct shape if you're using cemented cutters,the dust will kill you,etc. Indexable carbide tooling,where a small insert is screwed to a steel body and instead of sharpening it,you rotate to a fresh cutting edge,is pretty expensive. CNC machines all use indexable tooling. Carbide "live" tooling is where you use a tool with multiple cutting edges,mount it in the spindle of a high-speed router,and mount the router to the compound slide on your lathe. You set the machine for the correct thread pitch,or in this case,change out your whole gearing assembly,common for Metric threads,then set it,and set your machine for about 40RPM. You move the tool in to where you want the starting point to be,start the router,and engage the feed on the lathe. The router cuts the threads this way. This is the way you thread wood on a lathe too,similar to what I'll eventually be doing making custom pool cues. Tommy D.

[jackson1]

You're welcome to it Jackson. Yeah, it's my drawing.

Thanks. I think I'll put it up on my guitar site (Tremolo Info Page). I hope it's okay with you - if you want credits or your name mentioned, just let me know.

[Eyeball]

That's fine Jackson. No special credit necessary. I figure once something is posted on the web it's out there.

I just looked at your profile to see if your site was there. Sure enough it is and I've actually seen it before. Kudos to you for helping people out.

[Eyeball]

Stainless would be fine by me, I don't think it would look that bad. As you can see from the picture of my JT-6, functionality and necessity win over appearance...

Right on brother. "Show" is nice but "go" is what it's all about.

My only concern would be the hardness factor as they might tend strip out easier.

I don't think there's enough of a difference in material strength for that to be an issue.



Tommy - With all due respect, I've been in this business for more than 15 years and have owned a shop for almost 10. You seem to know quite a bit about machining but, and I mean this in the nicest possible way, the information in your post isn't entirely accurate. Screws are typically made from 303 stainless which isn't really all that hard to machine at all. Easier than the hardened steel used on alloy steel screws anyway. I'll use a HSS die to make the threads on these screws as I've done in the past with no trouble. Also, I use high speed steel tooling (not exclusively) in CNC machines on aluminum, steel & stainless everyday with no problem. Even with a simple water based coolant or sometimes no coolant at all (on small cuts).

I feel like I might have stepped on your toes a little with my offer. If you're the "forum machining guy" I'd be happy to step aside if you want to make them.

[TommyD]

need parts for my JT6

> Nah,you haven't stepped on my toes at all,Ball. If 303 is really that easy to machine,then I stand corrected. This was just my experience with it,having cut several screws out of a rod I found at school. My instructor said it was stainless,and I tried cutting it with HSS,with horrible results. What he didn't tell me until I had cut 5 different screws with it was that it was 440C,LOL. Much to his surprise,I made the screws I needed and had them dead-on,including a .370 x 11 stub Acme,which is a common joint screw in high-end pool cues,which is what I intend to do eventually. I have about a 4 month session left before graduating with Machinist I,so if you're programming CNC,you obviously know more than I do. I can do about anything I want on a manual lathe,mill,or grinder though. No beef,Tommy D.

[Budman68]

Would 2-3 bucks a piece be unreasonable? Tommy D.

That would be an excellent price Tommy but I think I'd go with a heat treated tool steel for best results.

This would be great!! Fretsonthenet used to make them but discontinued them a couple of years ago.

Not sure where you heard that but I've never made these, I've only carried used ones in excellent condition. I've considered it, but at the moment, I've got enough projects and ideas going that there's no room for them yet.

Hey, what do you guys think about making them out of stainless steel? From one standpoint it's better because it's easier to machine, no finish is required, plus they'll look good longer. On the other hand, the alloy steel of the originals is a tiny bit harder, plus the black oxide finish (for corrosion protection) matches the bridge better. The problem with black oxide though is the cost. It would probably add $6-$8 per set. Any thoughts?

First of all, Eyeball (is that your real name? ), welcome to the forum. I don't think the stainless would hold up, unfortunately, as these get a lot of abuse by people who tend to overtighten them because they underestimate the holding strength.

Tommy - With all due respect, I've been in this business for more than 15 years and have owned a shop for almost 10. You seem to know quite a bit about machining but, and I mean this in the nicest possible way, the information in your post isn't entirely accurate. Screws are typically made from 303 stainless which isn't really all that hard to machine at all. Easier than the hardened steel used on alloy steel screws anyway. I'll use a HSS die to make the threads on these screws as I've done in the past with no trouble. Also, I use high speed steel tooling (not exclusively) in CNC machines on aluminum, steel & stainless everyday with no problem. Even with a simple water based coolant or sometimes no coolant at all (on small cuts).

I feel like I might have stepped on your toes a little with my offer. If you're the "forum machining guy" I'd be happy to step aside if you want to make them.

Agreed completely, I've been a toolmaker for 23 years now (old school ) and high speed steel tooling/M2 works fine for stainless in a jobbing type shop. I have no doubt that in a high production shop (which we are not), that carbide and ceramic go a long way but for short runs like this, it's absolutely doable. Sure you can experience "hard spots" in the material but if you've ever used one on A-2 Tool steel, you know that threads are actually easier to cut in stainless.

One more thing I wanted to mention, here on the JCF, the admins do not like soliciting like this and while it can be unfortunate for those that could help out with making parts like this, and also those that need them, it's understandable because they have sponsors/dealers paying good money to advertise here and it's not fair to them. This is why you do not see me advertising here because it's frowned upon and it is a private board and I will abide by their rules.

Not being an admin kiss-ass or anything, just wanted to give you guys a heads-up

[Eyeball]

Tommy - Yeah, I figured your experience was with 440. That's stuff's a bear. LOL It's a real fun trade though, huh? From the beginning I always planned to make a nice cue but never got around to it. Modified a couple though.

Hey Budman. Thanks for the welcome. So you're the Frets On The Net guy? Awesome site. I've referred people to it many times.

I see what you're saying about harder material and abuse. I've had one of my model 6's for 20 years now and have never had to replace anything but I know many others eat hardware. I suppose it would be easy to underestimate the holding strength. Maybe it would be better to go with steel.

I also appreciate the heads up on the admins position on soliciting. That's completely understandable. I only meant to fill what looked like a void and kept the price down near the "favor" level for just that reason. Maybe if an administrator happens along (or if someone could point this thread out to them) they can let me know if I'm out of bounds. I'm not after the money, just wanted to help. I'm open to any arrangement that will get people the parts they need.

[modelo dos]

Right on brother. "Show" is nice but "go" is what it's all about.

Heh, well, my Model 2 would certainly be considered more "go" than "show", it's only about playability (?) at this point in her life (and mine, come to think of it... ). I think the "hard love" decal says it all... I must admit, as unattractive as they might be, those metric hex head cap screws do eliminate the strip issues of the originals, just need to keep a nut runner handy...

[Johno]

What would be the chance of a batch of JT6 Posts? I know I need a couple sets and I'm sure there are many other people who are in need.