Model 6 help

[J Norman]

New member seeks help with model 6.High e string goes sharp after divebomb.The locking nut seems to be working.The trem post are slightly loose with the trem removed, but only the high e goes sharp.If you strech the string ,it returns to pitch.It is an 87-89 with a JT-6.Any help is appreciated.

[finnman]

I think toejam said
Attach tuner.
Tune string.
Pushdown high e-string ABOVE the nut between the tuner.
If tuning moves sharp
there my be a groove in the e/b nut clamp on the e side
Pull it and check for grooves.
The string is going slack on the divebomb slipping a little past the nut
and when you return the bar to normal
you got a sharp string.

[jtr]

Check the actual nut the string might be getting caught up there this is probably what is wrong. Are you using stanard tuning and the guage of the strings may be a factor. How many springs do you use on the trem and are they in a straight line ||| or / | \ ?

[J Norman]

It is the the nut clamp.I had tried pushing on the string yesterday,but must not have pushed hard enough to make it slip.I tried it again after I read your reply and got it to slip.I had the same problem with the B string on my model 3A,but that one must be worn more.It was much easier to make it slip.I've heard of turning the clamp over.I think I'll try that,and lube the nut and saddles.Appreciate the help.thanks! J.N.

[J Norman]

What is the adantage of using 2 or 3 trem springs,straight or offset? My model 3A has 3 and my model 6 has 2.Both have 9-42 tuned to d+ and the trems are about level.I don't notice much difference in the tension.

[straycat]

Just a preference as to how the springs are arranged I like the center straight and the two outer ones angled.
You will notice the locking pads are beveled on one side so turning them over will leave the sharp side up and you will start cutting the strings when you clamp it down.The best thing to do is file the grooves smooth and use the beveled side.

[J Norman]

Thanks.I'll do that.New one's are probally no longer available,are they?

[dg]

Yes they are, thanks to our own budman68 (Dave):

http://www.fretsonthenet.com/hardware.htm#JT6_&_Kahler_&_Fender_System_Series_String_Locking_Plates_

[J Norman]

Hey.Thanks for the link.I know where I'll be doing a lot of my Christmas shopping this year(for myself anyway).This site is most exelent!

[dg]

Glad to help. I just noticed you mentioned the posts were a little loose with the tension off. The JT-6 posts & bushings have a pretty coarse thread compared to real floyd posts & bushings, so there can be some play. You can wrap a little teflon tape (aka plumber's tape) around the threads of the posts to tighten them up & reduce the play.

[J Norman]

Sounds like a good idea.I didn,t know if there was a tolarance.Their not real loose,but I think that would help.That brings up another question.I'm o.k. with the JT-6 as long as it stays in tune,but in the future if I wanted to upgrade to a real floyd ,according to what you said the thread pitch is different and I would have to change inserts also,unless it is acceptable to use the floyd with the JT-6 post?

[straycat]

The JT-6 post will work just fine with the OFR.The teflon tape trick works very well.

[J Norman]

Thanks for the info.Like I said ,I have no problem with the JT-6.Mine are both 20 years old and both still work well, but I'm sure they will wear out one day.A lot of people say that they're junk.I guess they need to play my 86 model 3 with a kahler.I would'nt take it to a gig,even as a back-up guitar.

[straycat]

Which Kahler?Flatmount pro or two point fulcrum?

[J Norman]

Two point fulcrum.Not sure which one.Mabe a 2500 series.Single locking with brass saddles.I heard that a kahler killer could be be used with the same post.Mabe I'll try to find one.I've got a kahler spyder on one of my strats.It's decent but the post spacing is different.