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  • More JT6/Model 2 questions

    Hey Gang,
    Glad to be on board here .

    I acquired a Model 2 recently with the Jackson trem system and have been pulling my hair out since on tuning issues.
    My questions:
    Usually my string gauge preference has been .008's but on fixed bridge Gibsons ( I route the strings 50's style backwards over the tail piece to provide more tension) and a blocked (dive only) Floyd equipped Jackson. Are 8's too light a gauge to provide stable tuning tension? I like the guitar so much I'd change gauges to facilitate stable tuning.
    Most of issues resolve around all strings staying flat after heavy frethand vibrato or depressing the bar but if I pull up on the bar all strings "hang" sharp as well. So could my problem be caused by nut friction? I got a bottle of sewing machine oil but after a few nutslot drenchings the probelm still exists.
    Yesterday I had the whole trem/bridge assembly off the guitar for inspection. Noticed some "wallowing" on the treble side area. Is this normal? Should'nt wear be uniform on both sides? Also my fulcrum studds seemed like they where working right thread wise but there was alot of slop. The insert seemed snug into the wood but the stud itself had alot of play in it in hte insert.
    Finally my axe has a tone control on it. It has a stock Jackson PUP in it but looking through the galleries I did'nt notice any Model 2's having a tone control. That the least of worries now though since I gotta keep the thing in tune first and foremost.
    I love the axe, best kneck feel for me in years, so i'd be willing to upgrade on trem assemblies or pop for a tremsetter. Anybody know some good folks dealer wise online for either of these?
    Shawn

  • #2
    Welcome to the JCF!
    Plenty of opportunites in there to deal with. The stud inserts can be tightened up in the thread area by wrapping them with teflon tape. I have never used 8's on floyd or Jackson trems, but it seems too light to me. Just make sure they are properly stretched, or if that doesn't work, try a set of 9's on there.
    I would think that if there is too much wear on one side, then check the spring tension. The claw might be uneven, or you have a mismatched set of springs.
    I own a Model 88 that some well meaning prior owner stuck a tone control on it. Oh, well, no way to cover that mod...And they took out the Jackson pup and installed an EMG 85.

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    • #3
      This is a quickie assessment, but it sounds more like dull knife-edges to me than a problem with the nut. The reason I think so is that when you pull up it stays sharp, and when you dive it stays flat. If your problem was at the nut, your strings would end up flat after a pullup and sharp after a dive. Worn knife edges keep the trem from returning to the "zero point" , and this is what it sounds like to me based on your post & without seeing the guitar for myself.

      With regard to using 8s, you should be able to use them as long as your trem is functioning properly.

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      • #4
        Thanks guys! Is there a solution (other than a full replacement) to dull knife edges? I'm getting pretty slick at quick trem arm grabs in between songs to return all six strings to pitch which I imagine is what folks had to do pre floyd era but not something I want to be thinking about in the middle of a song/show all the time.
        If full replacement is required I'm looking for a 41mm block to avoid fulcrum stud movement right? Certainly there is place other than E-bay on here to buy replacement parts right?
        Like to have it up and running prior to a marathon NYE gig!
        Anyhow have merry X-mas everybody..i'm glad to be here!
        Shawn

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        • #5
          Use a file to reshape the knife edges.Very simple to do.Check to see if there is gunk at the pivot points of the studs too clean them well.You may need to smooth them too.Usualy when a trem won't return in pitch these could be the problem.
          Teflon tape works great for sloppy trem posts.
          Replacement parts can be hard to come by for JT-6 trems but many here hord complete trems and loose parts for them
          Really? well screw Mark Twain.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by dg View Post
            This is a quickie assessment, but it sounds more like dull knife-edges to me than a problem with the nut. The reason I think so is that when you pull up it stays sharp, and when you dive it stays flat. If your problem was at the nut, your strings would end up flat after a pullup and sharp after a dive. Worn knife edges keep the trem from returning to the "zero point" , and this is what it sounds like to me based on your post & without seeing the guitar for myself.

            With regard to using 8s, you should be able to use them as long as your trem is functioning properly.
            I agree that it sounds like worn knife-edges, a common problem on these units. But since you said you usually block Floyds for dive only, I think you can prevent the above problem by increasing the tension a bit on the springs, and of course blocking it for dive only.

            And for a replacement, the standard long block (42 mm) Floyd Rose would drop right in without any mods. Both Original Floyds and the Schaller-made Floyds work.
            "Your work is ingenius…it’s quality work….and there are simply too many notes…that’s all, just cut a few, and it’ll be perfect."

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            • #7
              Thanks guys for the feedback. I'll tinker with it some more today and hope for the best.
              Happy Holidays
              Shawn

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