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Intonation problem on model 3A

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  • Intonation problem on model 3A

    I can set my 87 model 3A up perfectally at the 12th fret but it is slightly sharp at the 1st, 2nd and 3rd fret. I think the nut may be higher than it has to be and the pressure on the string ( while fretting the note) is causing the problem. I was wondering If anyone else had run into this problem and what they did to minimize it. I've run into this on several other guitars also, to an extent.
    Thanks in advance.

  • #2
    Sounds like you have diagnosed properly as a high nut. The tell tale sign is intonation is fine at 12th fret but goes sharp on the lower frets.

    Here's some info here: http://www.guitarnotes.com/notes/not...c_guitar_setup

    There are other tutorials on this on the web. The 3A has behind the nut locks so you actually have a real nut, so to speak ... so the techniques described for filing the string slots on a typical guitar nut would work for the 3A.

    If you decide to do it yourself ... this can be a bit tricky as the shape and depth of the nut slot is very important and if too deep or narrowly shaped they can cause the strings to bind up when you use the trem.

    Dave
    Dave

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    • #3
      Thanks for the advice. I think I'll have the local guitar tech take care of it. I don't really trust myself with a file around anything of any value. I need to take my model 6 also. It seems to have the same problem.

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      • #4
        I hope that is the problem. "Food for thought" you say this happened on other guitars you've owned correct? I have a buddy who would always make his G string go sharp when playing a d chord on the second fret position. I would play the guitar and it was fine. It turned out to be his heavy hand pressing down too hard. He went to a heavier set of strings with a wound G string. This took care of his problem. Just an FYI.

        Ed

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        • #5
          Bending the strings sharp is probally part of the problem. ( I use 9s ). I have it in the shop right now. The guy working on it did find a few problems with the guitar. A slight bow in the neck and the frets need to be filed, some more than others. I guess I'll have to wait and see how it turns out. Should be an improvement anyway.

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          • #6
            Since I don't have nut files, I generally leave the string slots alone, and file down the bottom of the nut to get the altitude correct.
            Sometimes, on a Floyd locking nut, just making the bottom flat works (it's a cast surface, and fairly uneven, so just filing it flat can bring it down that little extra amount).

            If you do decide to file the bottom of the nut, keep in mind that the angle of that bottom surface has to match the angle of the headstock.

            "Wow,... that was some of the hardest rockin ever. Hardest to listen too."
            --floydkramer

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            • #7
              Originally posted by nhspike View Post

              If you do decide to file the bottom of the nut, keep in mind that the angle of that bottom surface has to match the angle of the headstock.


              Even if the lock is behind the nut?
              THIS SPACE FOR RENT

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              • #8
                To check the string slot height fret a barr at the 3rd fret and see how much space you have at the 1st fret there should be a little.If you have no clearence and the string is on the fret the nut slots are too deep and vice versa.
                Your problem is consistant with a heavy handed player.
                Really? well screw Mark Twain.

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                • #9
                  This may be a coincidence, but the 3a and model 6 have the Kahler Standard tailpiece.
                  I just bought a Model 3, and the bridge fulcrum is the screw head, not on the bridge plate.
                  If the bridge plate is under the screw head..like a Floyd, it is installed wrong, and that is exactly what will happen, the bridge is too far forward.There is a slot in the bridge plate that sits on the screw heads, otherwise it won't work properly...just a thought.
                  The previous owner of mine actually plugged the post holes and moved the bridge back to compensate.
                  I put the posts back in the right place, and it is bang on set up properly....good luck!!!
                  sigpic

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Nuclear Vampire View Post
                    Even if the lock is behind the nut?
                    Yes.
                    You will have to dismount the nut.
                    "Wow,... that was some of the hardest rockin ever. Hardest to listen too."
                    --floydkramer

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