Quality of import Jacksons

[Pointy]

Ok, here is a thing that i read a lot in these forums but can't say i understand.

Apparently during the early 90's there was the MIJ Professional series, which was almost as (some say equally) good as the USA models, at a fraction of the price. So nowdays the MIJ models are sort of intentionally lower quality than they could make them, so as to not ruin the USA market and the company as a whole.

As a business decision, this makes perfect sense. What i don't understand is how were the 90's Professionals able to match USA quality at their price. Is it just a matter of worker wages that makes the difference? Specs and materials' quality - and therefore price - would have to be the same.

The other, more important side of this question, how exactly are current MIJ Pro series guitars kept from reaching similarly high standards? Most of them are of lower spec than USA models, but there are also some like the SL3, RR24 and some signature models that, on paper, match the USA ones on everything apart from the chinese-made OFRs and MOTO inlays. Where do they 'skimp' on quality on a $1200 guitar? I can't imagine it is anything that would affect playability - lots of pros use MIJ Jacksons (and mid-level guitars from other brands), and hey, if you can play Dragonforce's music in an RR3 what more can an instrument do!? (apart from tone, i guess BB King wouldn't like it that much). So is it the quality of the wood, the paint/finish materials, all of the above details or something else entirely?

[MartinBarre]

You can play Dragonforce on an RR3?
I'd throw it in the bin then and get a guitar that only plays good music.

Seriously, some good questions there. Remember the SL3 doesn't have binding either.

[Spivonious]

You can play Dragonforce on an RR3?
I'd throw it in the bin then and get a guitar that only plays good music.

Seriously, some good questions there. Remember the SL3 doesn't have binding either.

Ditto.

Seriously though, there's not a whole lot setting them apart from the US models. Some claim that better wood is used on the US models, and the obvious like German Floyds and aesthetic things like binding and figured tops.

Personally, I'd be too scared of dinging my $2500 US model, so I stick with the Japanese models.

[Sinistas]

Depends on the model. I've got a SLSMG, so neckthru: check, binding: check, ebony: check. A lot of people don't dig the headstock or piranhas, but it works for me!

[agmaldonado]

I know I love my MIJ Dominion.
Dominion
Dominion 2

[stevoc]

I think the biggest difference between my DK1 and my DK2 at this point is the pickups and the fretboard. I plan to throw some EMG's (or something else) into my DK2, and if I could put an ebony board on it, I'd think they'd be pretty close, minus the finish. (DK1 has a copperhead finish and my DK2 already has an OFR installed).

I like the toggle switch on the DK1, but it tends to cut out in certain positions if not switched much, so I have to change it's position a few times every time I use it to get it working properly. No issues with the blade switch.

[Pointy]

You can play Dragonforce on an RR3?
I'd throw it in the bin then and get a guitar that only plays good music.

Seriously, some good questions there. Remember the SL3 doesn't have binding either.

Sam Totman can play on one

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0jgrCKhxE1s

Actually this is the only Dragonforce song that i have heard, and i like it. Haven't looked any more into them yet, not really my style but i don't hate them either

I am asking because i am new here, and as you can probably tell, i love Jacksons. I also know that i am not getting a USA to asnwer these myself any time soon, so...
The RR24 has binding but then again only one pickup - no idea which one costs more!

[Spivonious]

SLSMG would be fantastic if it had Duncans and a Floyd :P

[Pointy]

Personally, I'd be too scared of dinging my $2500 US model, so I stick with the Japanese models.

Well i am scared of dinging my MIJ model, so you have a point! Damn pointy things!

No pun intended, lol

[RacerX]

Apparently during the early 90's there was the MIJ Professional series, which was almost as (some say equally) good as the USA models, at a fraction of the price. So nowdays the MIJ models are sort of intentionally lower quality than they could make them, so as to not ruin the USA market and the company as a whole.

The era was from 1990 - 1995, and I just want to clear up one thing: the difference between Professional & PRO (I like to capitalize the latter to further differentiate them).

PRO models were the top end of the Professional line. They had all the high end features: MOP inlays, ebony boards, binding, etc.

See Henrik's excellent article: http://audiozone.dk/index-filer/jack...ofessional.htm

Don't get PRO-Confused!

[Pointy]

That actually explains a lot, thanks!

How much of a high-end feature is neck binding considered? Other brands seem to have it on lower-tier models than Jackson. I guess it is mostly a marketing thing?

[Rich#6]

The quality of the new ones has been going up by upgrading the pickups on some models and the trems on the neck thrus(still not as good as a schaller). You are never going to see MOP inlays, MOP logo or qtrsawn necks on the neckthrus. All the "little" things add up.

[MartinBarre]

I too dont understand the binding thing. Epiphone Les Pauls have it, and they're hardly expensive.

[VoiceX3]

Let me give a personalized explanation as I have/had good models to compare. Let's start with the newer PRO models vs USA.

RR1T vs RR5

Lets start with the wood. The RR1T feels MUCH heavier (not too heavy a guitar either) while the RR5 felt like it weighed weighed next to nothing. An ebony board, binding and real MOP wouldn't make that much of a diffrence so that's not it....so my guess there is that the USA counterpart is made of a denser alder tone wood. The frets ends aren't finished as well and either are cheaper wire on the RR5 or they're not polished at all. The RR1T frets shine and have no drag while the RR5's are dull looking and not as smooth. The neck profiles are very close but not identical...both very good, but the USA wins. Pickups are exactly the same, but the switches pots and jack on the USA are far superior as the pots and switch in the RR5 were always a little quirky from the day I brought it home till I switched them out. The wiring/shielding in the USA was also FAR Superior.

For the next comparison we'll be looking at a KVPro Mustaine vs a KV2.

This matchup is much closer......

Weight of the 2 are extremely close. Both alder bodies dark ebony boards with real MOP sharkies and neck/headstock binding. The fret ENDS on the Mustaine aren't quite as nice as on the KV2, but unless you're looking for it, you wouldn't really notice. Quality pickups in both, but they are totally diffrent sounding so you really cant compare tone for these purposes. The only place I can say the Mustaine isn't on par with the KV2 is in the control cavity. Wiring in the Mustaine is neat and tidy, but the pots are kinda cheap and should be replaced, and could all be shielded better. The KV2 cavity is UNBELIEVABLE! Best noiseless wiring of any axe I've ever come across (that includes my early Dimas Soloist) with serious shielding of the cavity itself.

Pecking order goes like this....

1. USA
2. Early 90's PRO
3. New Pro models

All great axes, but the price diffrences are diffrent for a reason, not just because where they're built.

[Mazz]

I can play Dragonforce out of my ass, it also sounds a helluva lot better too.