Should I swap my licensed floyd for a real one?

[JakeAC5253]

Good evening gentlemen, I was directed to this forum in particular for answers to this question.

Here is a little background on the project... A couple years back I bought a used Jackson RR3 and have since done plenty of modifications to it, mostly electrical. Now as it is, I have the tone knobs desoldered from the circuit and simply separate 500k volume pots wired directly to the switch then output, basically the hottest setup that I can get, and I do this with all of my guitars these days. This guitar in particular sounds a bit darker than my other guitars and has a bit of a slower attack... a bit sludgy.

This is my only locking bridge guitar, but I have some hard tails and some floating bridges. This is really the only one that exhibits this issue. I think that it may be due to the poor quality of the stock licensed locking bridge because even when the guitar is unplugged it still exhibits this quality. The idea being that my understanding of the cheaper bridges is that they are made of lower quality less resonant metals, and that this loss of vibrational energy at the bridge could be leading to what I am experiencing and not a pickup or electronics issue. Is there anyone here that has first hand experience replacing a cheap locking bridge with a real floyd that would be able to verify whether I am on the right path or not?

[DalyTek]

I have the same FR in my KE3 that you have in your RR3 and don't have that problem at all. The JT-580LP is actually a pretty good LFR.
You might want to consider upgrading the block on it before going for a full Floyd replacement. Putting in a brass big block should help with loss of vibrational frequencies.

[Advv]

Yeap JT-580LP has been awesome for me.

[Ward]

Gotta agree with Dalytek, I would look into a big block before swapping out the whole unit. Might solve your problem for less coin and less hassle (not sure if the OFR requires routing to swap out on your guitar).

Tone is subjective of course, but a big brass block can brighten things up quite a bit and gives some added clarity (to my ears at least).

[JakeAC5253]

I appreciate the input, I've been wondering about those sustain blocks actually. What's the deal with those? I notice they come in varying sizes, is it just a question of using the largest one that can fit in your guitar? How about removal and installation?

[Ward]

Check out FloydUpgrades.com it's not the only place to get them, but his site has a ton of info. He's a really good guy to deal with too.

The different sizes (32mm, 37mm, 42mm if I remember correctly) are the different heights of the blocks. You should match that to what you have now. You can measure it with a ruler, or it should have one of those numbers stamped on it.

There is also the option of an L block which is a little extra bit of brass that hangs below where the bar screws in. I have those in all of my soloists, and they fit fine. I also have one in a 1990 Rhoads that fit fine with no restriction of movement. But I tried to put one in a PC1, and it didn't fit because of the L shape. Someone else here may have experience with the RR3 model...

Installation and removal aren't that difficult, but they take a while. You just take out the old trem, take all the saddles off, then unscrew the three screws that hold the block on. Then swap the block and put it all back together. The time consuming part is that you then have to adjust your springs and then reset your intonation once you have it leveled out.

[JakeAC5253]

Hmm, well I measured my existing block and it seems like it's right in between 34 and 35mm... Should I go for the 37mm block? There's not a WHOLE lot of extra room in the compartment, but there is some... I don't use the bar either really, just keep the bridge floating and the nut unlocked.

Is there a preferred internet store to buy from? So far I know of floydupgrades.com, and killerguitarcomponents.com.

[Ward]

Can you take the trem out and get a look at the block? I swapped 6 (4 OFRs, 2 JT-590s), and all of them had the size stamped into the original block. They were all recessed, and all 32mm.

Another thing to check is how much room you have between the top of the springs and the cavity cover. That may help you determine how large a block you can fit. If you get a block too tall, you will not be able to get the cover back on. Some people don't mind this if they don't use the cover, but if you order the right size block it isn't an issue.


Hope that makes sense...

[DalyTek]

Basically more mass = less tone loss. A big block (or better the L block if it will fit) will help.
You naturally lose some vibration with a floating trem as there's not much mass to transfer the string vibration to the body.
If you don't actually use the trem, another option is to block the trem. That could help as well.

[warlok]

Exactly what DalyTek said ^^...

[Scooter]

If you go with the block upgrade, before you remove the saddles mark each one in position, this will help when putting it back together, intonating a Floyd of any type is tedious. If you go with an OFR, it should fit in the route, others here have done it, but IMO the LFR is a good unit, and I'd get the block.