SLSMG Dead Spots

[S1I2F3]

Dead spots are common among all fretted instruments, as linear fret spacing is imperfect fore "pure" tones. For example, look at the "True Temperament" fretting system. If a string oscillates at a frequency that is slightly off (based on the fret locations), the incorrect amplitude can cause the string to vibrate into a fret (i.e. the next fret), causing the sound to decay rapidly. There is no way around this (on fretted instruments), just varying degrees of this.

If you look at professional players, their guitars almost always have the truss rod cover off, because they (or their tech), are always adjusting the truss rod. If they change tunings, the truss rod must be adjusted. If the room changes temperature, even slightly, they adjust the truss rod. If they change strings, adjust the springs, you get the idea. As a player wanting your guitar to play and sound perfect at all times, this is what it takes. It would be wrong of you (not "you" specifically, but just in general) to think that you can change tunings and not have to adjust anything. For some guitars, this may be the case, but due to the variation in woods, materials, components, etc, this should not be expected of all instruments.

I know you don't want to hear it, but there is only so much that can be done without working on the frets. I would recommend getting a fret file, using the web, and learning how to do it yourself. It would be a lot less expensive than getting it done by a shop, and in my opinion, would be a great skill to have.

[StealthPro]

If you look at professional players, their guitars almost always have the truss rod cover off, because they (or their tech), are always adjusting the truss rod. If they change tunings, the truss rod must be adjusted. If the room changes temperature, even slightly, they adjust the truss rod. If they change strings, adjust the springs, you get the idea. As a player wanting your guitar to play and sound perfect at all times, this is what it takes. It would be wrong of you (not "you" specifically, but just in general) to think that you can change tunings and not have to adjust anything. For some guitars, this may be the case, but due to the variation in woods, materials, components, etc, this should not be expected of all instruments.

I know you don't want to hear it, but there is only so much that can be done without working on the frets. I would recommend getting a fret file, using the web, and learning how to do it yourself. It would be a lot less expensive than getting it done by a shop, and in my opinion, would be a great skill to have.

The rapidly dying tones on the SLSMGs i've tested (mine included) weren't caused by the string hitting a fret.
I described the whole problem in various posts in this thread so i don't want to repeat everything in this one again.
Sadly, it seems to be a true dead spot caused by the played note getting in conflict with the guitars resonance frequency.
Nothing i've tried solved the problem.

[larryguitar]

PRS used to have a factory fix for this issue on their own guitars. I believe it included alternate (more massive) tuners and perhaps a brass headstock weight. I know the extended heel was also supposed to be an attempt to prevent this issue. I'd try something clamped to the headstock (almost anything that would solidly clip on should work) and see if it moves the 'dead' area. If it does, you can track it down and eliminate it with tuners, even a 'fatfinger' like they used to sell. And AFA getting down on Jackson for the issue, I don't know; I think MOST guitars suffer this to one extent or other, and it's simply a matter of whether it is bad enough, and in a place used frequently enough, to get irritating.

[CowboyFromHell]

Due to lack of time i just took a piece of rubber in form of an old erasor and put it under the bridge.
I screwed the bridge down to have a direct connection between the middle of the bridge and the body.
I didn't A/B, but if anything there was very little difference.
Maybe the tone sustained a bit longer or i was just imaging it.

Meanwhile, I got to know one more person having the dead spot on his Slsmg.
But - his guitar must have been built 8 or 10 years ago.
So more and more i think it is a construction problem!

Nevertheless i'll speak to a luthier, if we should try another bridge (as Newc recommended) to decrease the problem at least.
Maybe it'll help.
Otherwise i'm strongly thinkin about selling it.
I am very disappointed by my favourite guitar manufacturer (who absolutely don't wants to be confronted with the problem!).

Considering that rubber would only absorb resonances, I doubt that was the best material to try.

[StealthPro]

PRS used to have a factory fix for this issue on their own guitars. I believe it included alternate (more massive) tuners and perhaps a brass headstock weight. I know the extended heel was also supposed to be an attempt to prevent this issue.

Yes, i've heard of that PRS Upgrade Kit. Some other tuners are something i'm going to try someday. Some locking tuners would be fine as tuning stability is ok but not great,
especially when your doing many bends.

I'd try something clamped to the headstock (almost anything that would solidly clip on should work) and see if it moves the 'dead' area.

That was something i already tried and posted in this thread.

If it does, you can track it down and eliminate it with tuners, even a 'fatfinger' like they used to sell.

I already tried that Fender fatfinger in a store. Beside looking really awful on the headstock, it (as expected) only moved the dead spot about 2 half steps higher.
So it was not an option to me.
Maybe some slightly lighter tuners will change the dead spot about 1/4 step. Ok, it still wouldn't be totally fixed, but it would be less recognizable.
Another bridge would also be an interesting option. But as i do own quite a few other guitars (and Jacksons) i was nearly criminally careless with it the last months.

And AFA getting down on Jackson for the issue, I don't know;

They (the fender customer "service") didn't gave a damn about it. They don't wanted to be conflicted with maybe having a problem.
Even though i gave them some serial numbers of models that were affected.
So nothing happened.

I think MOST guitars suffer this to one extent or other, and it's simply a matter of whether it is bad enough, and in a place used frequently enough, to get irritating.

Yes maybe. My other guitars do have some slight variations in sustain when considering the whole fretboard. But none has such a distintive rapidly decay in tone.

Considering that rubber would only absorb resonances, I doubt that was the best material to try.

I absolutly agree. But that was just a last desperate try after all the other things i tried. I posted most of them in this thread as you have surely read.

[neptoess]

Kinda curious, what gauge strings are you running and what tuning? Sounds like there isn't enough downward pressure on the saddles, like tuning drop C with a set of 9-42s

[StealthPro]

Kinda curious, what gauge strings are you running and what tuning? Sounds like there isn't enough downward pressure on the saddles, like tuning drop C with a set of 9-42s

Hi,
i've already tried different string gauges and brands from standard 009-042 in E-Tuning to 010,5-048 D-Tuning. For my taste especially with the 10.5-048 there should be enough tension.
Heavier strings won't fit without filing the saddle.