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DR5 nut size??

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  • DR5 nut size??

    Hi guys,

    Sorry for the newbie question. I am looking to replace the JT-580 on my DR5 with a new licensed FR. Could someone please let me know if the nut size is 42mm or 43mm? I don't have the guitar with me at the moment, so unfortunately I can't check it myself. Thanks!!

  • #2
    R2, 42mm.

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    • #3
      Thanks a lot Moku!! Much apprciated.

      Cheers

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      • #4
        Second newbie question, are the trem units the same for an R2 and R3 nut? i.e. is the nut size the only difference or do the trem units have different string spacing? Thanks

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        • #5
          The trem is the same, regardless of the nut

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          • #6


            here are the specs:

            R1: narrow: Width: 1-9/16" (39.7mm); Height: .235"; E to E Width: 1.309; Radius: 10"; String Spacing: .2398”

            R2: standard: Width: 1-5/8" (41.30mm); Height: .230"; E to E Width: 1.371; Radius: 10"; String Spacing: .2505”

            R3: wide: Width: 1-11/16" (42.90mm); Height: .278"; E to E Width: 1.4155"; Radius: 12"; String Spacing: .2591” (narrower string spacing for bound necks)

            R4: wide: Width: 1-11/16" (42.90mm); Height: .278"; E to E Width: 1.4355; Radius: 10"; String Spacing: .2631” (wider string spacing, not bound necks)

            R5: extra wide. Width: 1-3/4" (44.45mm); Height: .280"; E to E Width: 1.491; Radius: 10"; String Spacing: .2736”

            R6: R1 with bullet nut relief. Width: 1-9/16" (39.70mm); Height: .235"; E to E Width: 1.309; Radius: 10"; String Spacing: .2398”

            R7: R2 with bullet nut relief. Width: 1-5/8" (41.30mm); Height: .230"; E to E Width: 1.371; Radius: 10"; String Spacing: .2502”

            R8: R4 with flatter radius. Width: 1-11/16" (42.90mm); Height: .225"; E to E Width: 1.4355"; Radius: 10"; String Spacing: .2631”

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            • #7
              there's a difference but it'll work with the same trem. however, if the neck is meant to use a r2 and you put a r3 on, then it'll be too wide. the low and high e strings will be on the edge of the fret board. plus the width of the locknut will go off the locknut shelf on the neck--no good. so you gotta use the right size locknut for whatever neck you have.

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              • #8
                Im not too familiar with the dr5 but I thought most (if not all) import jacksons had 1 11/16 width nuts, r3. All of my import charvel and jackons have this as far as I know.

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                • #9
                  most import jackson s have r2s. just measured my dr5. it's r2.

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                  • #10
                    Interesting. All the dinkys in the catalogs are listed as 1 11/16. as well as bolt on kellys and RRs. A few oddball models like the jtx and eclipse the like have 1 5/8. Like I said Im not familiar with the dr5 but if youve got it right in front of you, I guess its 1 5/8. My dr3 has an r3 for sure.

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                    • #11
                      Most production Jacksons have 43mm nut. I measured mine with digital caliper and it is 43mm.

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                      • #12
                        Thanks a lot Ralph! As you can see my FR knowledge is fairly limited, so any guidance is most welcome. Cheers

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                        • #13
                          Thanks a lot guys. I don't know why my other post only uploaded now. I guess I could always leave the original nut on and just change the trem, right? The nut is fine, is the blades and saddles that are a bit worn out.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Capelo View Post
                            Thanks a lot guys. I don't know why my other post only uploaded now. I guess I could always leave the original nut on and just change the trem, right? The nut is fine, is the blades and saddles that are a bit worn out.
                            Yes, just leave the original nut if there's nothing wrong with it.
                            I feel my soul go cold... only the dead are smiling.

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                            • #15
                              Thanks Toejam. I will then leave the original nut on (unless it is a R3) and just replace the trem unit. The idea is to replace the original JT580 with an OFR (Korean) from a Pro-Mod that I found online. Do you guys anticipate any major issues, or should it be a fairly straight forward job? Thanks

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